FEL fork material

[copndoc3]

For my next project, I'm going to build a set of FEL forks like the ones shown in:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...81695406-forks-my-front-end-loader-forks4.jpg

I went down to the local steel yard to scope out their "drop" zone to find some suitable material for this project. I was thinking of building it from 2x4x3/16 or 2x4x1/4 rectangular tubing, but while looking thru the drops, I spied some 2x4 channel iron, probably 1/4" thick. This got me thinking, which material would be better for the forks? The intended use of these forks will be to pick up tree limbs around the 16 acre farm I live on here in NC, and carrying them to the burn pile.

So I thought I'd open the floor for discussion and see what the general consciouses is which material I should use, the pros and cons of each, etc.

 

[sjames]

the tubing would probably be better, but I think the channel would be fine. Im pretty sure it would support more than your fel is rated to lift. It would just be less resistant to twisting forces.

 

[Baby Grand]

You can always weld a plate between the webs of the channel to convert that area to box if you need the additional stiffness.

Jim

 

[rtimgray]

I really think they should be orange (or maybe black) to compliment your tractor (he-he). In all seriousness, you might be able to find some used forktruck forks at a scrapyard. After they were so much, we have to change them here at work. We generally load them into the scrap trailer, but I know that I've seen them at the local scrap yards for sale. The only problem might be that they may be shorter than you are looking for.

Good luck and take care.

 

[J_J]

These are only $80 Just adapt to the front.

3 PT CARRY-ALL FORK ATTACHMENT

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356726_200356726

 

[mbohuntr]

I built a carryall out of 3"square stock. Then I adapted it to my FEL. It works great. One bad point, The 3"fork ends should have been split horizontally and re-welded to a taper for pallet picking.

 

[George2615]

I built my forks out of 1 1/2" x 4" channel. Then welded a piece of 1" x 1" angle underneath for a little extra strength. Its more than strong enough for what my loader can lift. My material was free (just laying around the scrap pile) so that's what I used. Mine are fixed since I didn't need adjustable forks. I can mount them on the bucket or the 3 pt.

 

[mbohuntr]

They look very similar to mine George, great minds think alike. :laughing:

 

[copndoc3]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the info you have provided. Between the grapple I built and the front forks, it will make cleaning up the farm a whole lot easier :thumbsup:

Tom

 

[schmism]

I bought a set of "worn out" real forks from a fork lift place for $40

 

[alchemysa]

For my next project, I'm going to build a set of FEL forks like the ones shown in:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...81695406-forks-my-front-end-loader-forks4.jpg

Thats the set of forks I made. They look very long but that makes them pretty easy to see from the seat. They work perfectly and are quick to fit. They also transfer the stress well so the bottom of the bucket is not distorted. Note that my bucket has a square back so that also helps somewhat. (You want the forks to extend back into the bucket as far as possible so they don't fall out when tilted down.) Also note the small rectangular plates welded to the top of the bucket to stop the forks falling out. I strongly suggest you make a mockup of one side of the forks with some 2x4 wood so you get the length and angles correct. The forks are fitted by sliding them in 'on the level' then sliding them sideways, so make sure you leave room for some sideways movement.

On the negative side, I built them way too heavy. (It's heavy duty rectangular tube). No way could my loader lift what these are capable of handling. So don't overbuild them, it just reduces lifting capacity and make them heavier to fit. Also note that the final forks only had one lateral bar not 2 as in the original post. The channel you mentioned might be quite successful. It would probably be easy to strengthen them up later if needed.

Good luck and please show us the final result.

 

[shinnlinger]

Here is what I did.

I started by welding some angle at the top of the bucket to secure a 3pt carry all frame. 2 pins hold it in at the top of the bucket out of the goo and it is a breeze to take on in off. My dad promptly pretzled the carry all, so I made a heavy duty one out of some scrap in the back.

Old mold board plow frames are great fork material. Not too heavy, but very strong and long.

I welded some angle in the bottom of the bucket to stiffen it and to take the strain off the cutting lip by welding peices in front of and behind the bottom of the forks so that it locks in place when the upper pins are instaled.

I also like this set up as opposed to clamp ons (which can put a major strain on the cutting lip) as the upright portion prevents logs from rolling back over the top the of the bucket and crushing me. It is also easier to install/remove

It has held up very well and every timber in my house has kissed them at least three times, from woods to mill to frame. It has forked lots of brush into piles as well, and the practically live on my tractor.

 

[bx24]

They turned our real nice. I am sure you will find dozens of uses for them. Make your next project changing out the "fixed" bucket to a quick release version (so you can lift that much more with the forks by eliminating the bucket weight)

Nice job

 

[JoelD]

I used $40 of old pallet racking c-channel.

I used chain to wrap around the bucket and binders if I need to forks to be tight (not always the case).

Joel

 

[spurlocktool]

Thats the set of forks I made. QUOTE]

Alchemysa, I love your design. Elegantly simple and functional. I'm going to copy this and toss my old clunky ones.

Bill