FEL Digging Technique

[Ron_NY]

I could sure use some suggestions on the best way to dig with the FEL. Not looking to make huge holes, max 2 feet deep.

Whenever I lower the loader into the ground, even in soft dirt, the front end of the tractor lifts right up. This happens with my newly installed digging forks, as well.

I can get down into dirt by moving tractor forward (slowly), but I am concerned about the amount of strain I am putting on the hydraulics.

Tractor is 65HP Belarus 4WD, with Hardy ST85 loader - 84" bucket.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

If you don't already have one, get yourself a toothbar. There are many threads on TBN about this wonderful attachment for digging with your bucket. Just click on 'Search' and type in "toothbar" (and, after you read those, do the same thing with "tooth bar" /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif). I hope this helps.

 

[Ron_NY]

The loader manufacturer offers digging teeth, designed for the loader (which I purchased and installed). There are 10 teeth, each 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel, that are shaped and drilled to fit the pre-drilled bucket. The front end of the tractor will rise up as soon as the teeth touch the ground. Thanks for the suggestion, but I suspect that the tooth bar discussed in the forum would have the same result, lifting the front end.

 

[EdKing]

You need to get the "feel" for how sharp an angle, and how much down pressure to apply while digging. If you are applying to much down pressure, you will lift the front end. Start going foward slowly, with the bucket angle just a little foward of level, and gently lower the bucket to engage the ground. You also need to slowly curl the bucket up as you dig. It will take a while to get the hang of it, just got to keep practicing. Also as stated in the previous post, if you don't have a tooth bar, get one. The difference is like night and day.

 

[Spencer]

Here are the instructions on 'Peeling and Scraping' from my New Holland owners manual. I am not sure if it is relevant to what you want to do or not.

 

[tdenny]

Spencer,

Nice tip on scraping. I was wondering if I was doing it correctly.

 

[Ron_NY]

Spencer - Thanks, this gives me a good idea of the correct technique. Now, just have to find the seat time to practice, practice, practice. Thanks again. Ron in Central New York

 

[frank_f15]

RON; u have to curl your buckek to actually dig and sometimes u have to move forward slowly. the hardest part is breaking the top layer of sod and dirt. just pratcice , u will get the hang of it.depending on the type of soil and the condidtion of it , u may want to take little bites .

 

[paccorti]

Ron,

Also make sure your FEL is not in the float position. I used to dig that way and its much harder. Use float to get the FEL on the ground and then center the joystick boom control.

Peter

 

[BB_TX]

Ron - I agree with the practice, practice, practice. Several years ago when I bought some land, my neighbor told me to take his small Ford tractor over and move/level some dirt I needed to move. It was only about a 25 hp tractor and the dirt was well packed down and hard. Well, after about an hour he came by to see how I was doing. I had hardly made a noticable difference. He hopped on the tractor and dug/moved more dirt in 10 minutes than I had in that hour. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif It's all in technique.

 

[8NTX]

Speaking of a toothbar - I am still pondering and pricing new Kubotas and called the dealer a couple of days ago inquiring about the cost of adding a toothbar on the FEL. He acted like I was nuts/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. This is the general mgr. of a fairly large Kubota dealership who had been there for 20+ yrs. I had to describe it for him. He said he had never heard of putting a toothbar on the FEL of a Kubota, and said those were strictly for heavy equipment/dozers, etc. Anybody else had this kind of reaction from a dealer?

 

[WVBill]

My Kubota dealer has a sample toothbar section laying on the floor of the sales office.

 

[frank_f15]

he was joking with u right? if he wasn't he better talk to mister carver, they sell lots of toothbars. he did understand that u were talking about a detachable bar?

 

[DavidInNH]

Mine has a display right inside the door...

-david

 

[duanet]

Funny thing - I didn't even think to ask my dealer about a toothbar. I had been "listening in" on TBN for a couple of months before I bought my JD 4100, and knew how good a toothbar would work and where to get one. I got mine from Carver, and the guys on TBN were absolutely right about how good it would work. It takes less than five minutes to take it off or put it back on, and it is on my tractor at least 95% of the time right now for the kind of work I'm doing (especially since we didn't get any significant snow this last winter.)

<font color=green>Duane</font color=green>

 

[gerard]

Ron NY, As mentioned in one of the previous posts what you describe is exactly how a loader reacts when in the float position which is not what you want when digging. Bring the bucket down with down pressure (not float position) until the bucket base is level with the ground, then curl forward (dump direction) slightly which should only put some up pressure on the front wheels. You should then be able to drive slowly forward making minor adjustments to the digging angle using the curl. Not hard but does take a little practice to get efficient and a toothbar makes it MUCH easier. You can also take a much more aggresive cut by angling the lip down further but then you have to curl as you drive forward or you'll just dig in and spin your wheels.