Farm girl needs tractor advice

[tommu56]

Would snow fence help for the drifts?
Just remember to keep them far enough away from the road so drift forms in the field.

Check with the neighbors and see if there is a good contractor that could move snow when it's bad.

I lived on a dead end road and the farmer past me would come clear a spot in the his field next to my house and he and the kids would park their cars up there before the storm and walk out to cars to get to work.when he would get home from work he would work on the drive.


tommu

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

A 2003 tractor may have come available from an exec at my sister's company. It belonged to his father who has had to sell his hobby farm. It has only 70 hours on it. A John Deere 4130 with a front end loader. It is larger than what I had planned and I'm still waiting to see about price. It will have to fit through the doors into my barn as well, or garage, which has a low ceiling.

I'm thinking maybe this would be a Jd 4310 (not 4130). In 2003 the only moniker close to what you typed would be a 4310(unless something much bigger like a sprayer or something). These are great compact tractors because I have one! I'd recommend you look at JD's I-match system or Pat's easy change to help hookup 3point rear implements. If it is a 4310, and it has the ehydrostatic transmission, you won't find anything easier to learn to drive. You can feel comfortable on it in ten minutes. There are many of us online with these. They hold their value quite well and have proven to be very durable with minimal problems. You can lower/fold the ROPS (rollover protection system) down to fit into a garage. Just don't ever forget to lower if you have to in order to fit it under the door.

 

[Nomoregears]

Here's my 2 cents. I live in Upstate NY on 40 acres. I bought a 30hp / 4 wd tractor 3 years ago. Kick myself in the butt for not buying it 10 years earlier. I have plowed my 800' of driveway for the past three winters. One storm was 37 inches of snow. Talk about fun. I did that with a back blade and a loader. I get drifts 5' deep. Not a problem for my NH. I plug it in during the cold weather.
I haul all my firewood in with this tractor, put new material on my driveway, started building a pad for my new barn, haul logs to my sawmill, plow & plant food plots for the neighbors, turn wind rows of compost and mulch, used an auger to put in 100 fence posts, and moved approx 40 tons of rock a year from my fields. This tractor has done everything I have asked it. Other than changing fluids and replacing my front tires, it has remained maint. free. My previous tractor was a Ford 4000 gas which was so temperamental I spent three hours coaxing it to do two hours of work.
Here's another thought... if you plan on having a manicured lawn consider a tractor with less weight(hint hint 30 hp)..They do not tear up a lawn like a 40 or 50 hp. I have turf tires on my tractor and don't see a problem using them. Just my 2cents

 

[kenmac]

Buy from a dealer that is close to you. So, when/ if it breaks you won't have to haul it very far to be repaired. Go to the dealerships & try out the tractors . See which brand fits you, location of controls, shuttle shift , st. gear drive , hydrostatic drive. Which dealer will be there when/if you need him/her ? I wouldn't buy any less than 30-35 hp

 

[Soundguy]

Stay away from grey market tractors such as Chinese,

Chinese does not entail grey market.

grey market means the machine was designed for a domestic market other than our own. there are -MANY- chinese tractors, designed for OUR domestic market.. thus they are not chinese.

However.. on the other hand.. you can find both grey and domestic market kubota and yanmar tractors here.. the grey market ones were not designed for our market... notice that these are jap tractors.. and not chinese.. etc. Other examples exist.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

If you have a big job that a smaller tractor won't do a few times a year hire it out or find a work around, There are thousands of amish that feed round bales with no front end loader in sight. Like egon said, there are ways to safely move round bales..

There are ways for people experienced and for those with the right extra equipment.. like bale buggies and doodlebugs. If I had to feed rounds with a 30hp tractor.. I'd be getting a doodle bug.. and just use the 30hp tractor and loader to manhandle the bale onto the cart and then tow it out.

Since feeding will be a year round task.. I wouldn't count that as one of the big jobs to hire out.. since she didn't mention any other big jobs... that kind of leaves here with few choices on a minimum sized tractor...

soundguy

 

[Gary Fowler]

Someone mentioned getting a SCUT so you wouldnt tear up your lawn with a larger tractor, I cant agree with that. You need to get the tractor big enough to handle your farm chores. Buy a riding lawnmower for your yard if it is that large and dont mess with Mid Mount or rear mount finish mowers that cost more than a 20 HP riding lawn mower.
Sit down and list your needs and get the equipment needed for your ranch chores. You may want to visit your neighbors and discuss these issues with them. One of them may even volunteer to help you with some of your once a year tasks for free or very reasonable pricing. NO piece of equipment will do everything, so you have to pick the one that matches your daily/weekly chores, not the once / twice a year stuff. Soundguy offered that the doodle bug (large round bale hauling trailers) would allow you to haul round bales with a much smaller tractor, so keep that in mind also. I cant believe that you will find a tractor small enough to muck out a stall and still do any ranch work, but a good FEL will at least load it and move it out of the barn once it is moved from the stall. A skidster would to the task, but way out of your budget and the attachment are outrageous in price. A 20-30 HP 4WD compact tractor would do all your ranch work easily
Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree about getting a tractor small enough to muck a stall. at best I'd get a tractor that could drive thru the breezeway and park the loader bucket at the door for emanual labor to load it.

soundguy

 

[KML]

I respectfully disagree that a tractor small enough to muck a stall wouldn't do farm chores. I think something along the lines of a John Deere 2520 (or comprable from another manufacturer) would fill the bill fine. Horse stalls tend to run big, with big doors. This tractor would fit in many a horse stall and be capable of most all chores on a modest farm. It's suprising what some of the smaller machines and some finesse can accomplish. I also feel that for a new tractor owner a smaller more refined machine would offer a better experience than a larger more basic tractor. Keeping in the same price point gets you two completely different classes of tractor between a 20 - 30HP SCUT and the 40 and larger CUTS.

And I'll stress again, it's easier to trade up than down. If you shop at reputable dealers you can by all means ask to use the machine for a few days. This would be a better way to get a feel for what is right for you as a tractor is a very personal thing. Many people love Kubotas, and on paper and by reputation I think they are a great tractor, but they just don't feel right to me. It's important that your choice is comfortable for you.

The best advice I can give is get out there and drive some tractors, maybe even rent a few of different sizes. Remember, you've lived your whole life without one, you don't have to bring one home today....take your time and find one that fits for you.

Good luck!

 

[Soundguy]

My stalls are 12x12 with 4' double buck doors.. Nothing bigger than a scut would fit insid ethe stall.. that said.. i don't wan't a tractor INSIDE the stall.. if it can drive the breezeway.. that's fine... ya got to muck-rake it anyway..

soundguy

I respectfully disagree that a tractor small enough to muck a stall wouldn't do farm chores. I think something along the lines of a John Deere 2520 (or comprable from another manufacturer) would fill the bill fine. Horse stalls tend to run big, with big doors. This tractor would fit in many a horse stall and be capable of most all chores on a modest farm. It's suprising what some of the smaller machines and some finesse can accomplish. I also feel that for a new tractor owner a smaller more refined machine would offer a better experience than a larger more basic tractor. Keeping in the same price point gets you two completely different classes of tractor between a 20 - 30HP SCUT and the 40 and larger CUTS.

And I'll stress again, it's easier to trade up than down. If you shop at reputable dealers you can by all means ask to use the machine for a few days. This would be a better way to get a feel for what is right for you as a tractor is a very personal thing. Many people love Kubotas, and on paper and by reputation I think they are a great tractor, but they just don't feel right to me. It's important that your choice is comfortable for you.

The best advice I can give is get out there and drive some tractors, maybe even rent a few of different sizes. Remember, you've lived your whole life without one, you don't have to bring one home today....take your time and find one that fits for you.

Good luck!

 

[kmully]

I'm thinking maybe this would be a Jd 4310 (not 4130). In 2003 the only moniker close to what you typed would be a 4310(unless something much bigger like a sprayer or something). These are great compact tractors because I have one! I'd recommend you look at JD's I-match system or Pat's easy change to help hookup 3point rear implements. If it is a 4310, and it has the ehydrostatic transmission, you won't find anything easier to learn to drive. You can feel comfortable on it in ten minutes. There are many of us online with these. They hold their value quite well and have proven to be very durable with minimal problems. You can lower/fold the ROPS (rollover protection system) down to fit into a garage. Just don't ever forget to lower if you have to in order to fit it under the door.

I realized while I was looking that it couldn't be a 4130 too, I couldn't find one on the net. There is a 4120? A 4310 sounds just too big for me? A fold down ROPS would be great, though. The offer came from the owners son and I'm still waiting on a price. I think he said his father paid 47K for it new!

 

[gemini5362]

I will tell you about my experiences. I have a B6200 4 wheel drive kubota, I also have a 4940C montana with a cab. Sizes of tractors is kind of like sizes of kitchens. Some people cannot imagine a kitchen where you have to take more than three steps to do anything. Some people think that if you cant cook a 6 course meal while 20 or 30 of your closest friends hang out in the kitchen talking to you that you are space deprived. It is all a matter of taste. I love to pick on soundguy, ask him how many acres he mows with what size mower. I will give some advice that i think everyone on here will agree with. Do not get a tractor without a front end loader (FEL) My wife has never asked me which I love more her or the front end loader. I think she already knows. I had a tractor for 20 years without one then I got a new tractor with FEL and cannot imagine how I have lived without one in the past. Either get a tractor with a hydrostatic drive or a shuttle shift. Hydrostatic drives are nice I have been told but they do add dollars to the price of the tractor. Shuttle shifts will allow you to go forward or backward by just moving a shifting lever one direction or the other. That is a lot easier than having to shift to reverse then shift back to forward, it also allows you to back up in a higher gear. Both of my tractors are 4 wheel drive. If you are talking about moving around in snow I would think that would be a good option to have.


I could do most of what you said you wanted to do with my 15 horse b6200. I have used it for post holes. I had a deck on it which i just took off today. I bought a finishing mower and to be honest could not reccomend to anyone that they use a deck versus a finishing mower. A 4 foot finishing mower will mow just as good as a riding lawn mower and cost a lot less plus take up a lot less storage space and upkeep. The only thing I think I would have a problem with is moving large round bales. From what you are saying I agree with the 25 to 30 horse group. A cab would be nice but will add a few thousand to the price. Good luck with your search and let us know what you decide on

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I realized while I was looking that it couldn't be a 4130 too, I couldn't find one on the net. There is a 4120? A 4310 sounds just too big for me? A fold down ROPS would be great, though. The offer came from the owners son and I'm still waiting on a price. I think he said his father paid 47K for it new!

A 4310 is not very big after 10 minutes. They turn sharp. Will lift large round hay bales with a rear 3pt bale spear. Think of a riding mower on steroids. Roughly twice as big as a riding mower but 4 times as capable.

If they spent $47K, this would put them in the realm of a much larger tractor (or a very large cadre of accoutrement). Keep searching and researching. If you look at new, take notice of a dealership's labor price, cleanliness and in general if they seem like someplace you wouldn't mind doing business with....good luck

 

[40_acre_mule]

I have 40 acres, (hence my name), of which about 20 are fields, mowed with the rotary cutter (bushhog). I have several swampy (boggy to y'all up north, I reckon) areas. My tractor is light enough with the wide R4 tires and 4WD to move across the muck without sinking, but heavy enough to load the FEL with dirt and haul it around. I also have a two+ acre pond that needs spillway maintenance. My 3 acres of lawn, plus 3.5 miles of walking trails are maintained with the finishing mower. I do more wrenching on the attachments than on the tractor. I use the FEL constantly. I don't own a phd, but borrowed one on two occasions to put up the fence posts. Snow is only a rumor in these parts.
Here's some of my experiences. Perhaps you'll find useful info...
Bought a used Ford 4000 (20+ years) to start with. Worked pretty good for two years, except the skinny R1 ag tires with 2WD would break throug the crust on the swamp and bury the tractor right quick. Then it started having little problems. I'd spend two hours fixing the tractor before I could use it at least once a week. Mostly minor repairs, but aggravating, especially when I had to spend the day going to buy a new part and installing it. When I got the okay from the CFO, I went shopping. I started with a basic price range, ($18K) and then started looking at everything available for that price. I compared weights, horsepower, attachments, #of speeds (forward AND reverse) or other type of transmission (some don't really have specific gears [HST]). I got the Kubota, (about $21K) because I felt that it had the most horsepower for the money, but still was the right size for my needs. I've never wished I had a smaller tractor, but occasionally have desired a bigger one, (mostly when trying to move a lot of dirt).
Things I found I couldn't live without, but didn't know until I got the new tractor: 4 wheel drive (I highly recommend it), R4 tires (your needs may vary) rear hydraulic controls, power steering, comfortable seat.
As for attachments, I buy them as I can afford them, but mostly I buy with an eye to the future. I want stuff that will make my life easier when I'm old and feeble. The sickle bar mower was expensive, but I can cut along the edges of the pond with no trouble. Way better than a hand held gas trimmer. Along with attachments, I've had to add to my tool collection. I'm a tool fanatic, but here's two I use all the time: an impact wrench (mine's electric) and a torque wrench. They are easy to learn to use. Finishing mowers cut just like a lawn mower and eliminate an additional gas engine that must be maintained. However, the blades will need to be removed for sharpening. The FEL is great for lifting the mower to get at the bottom.
Safety: Since you say you are a tractor newbie, I highly recommend reading as much of the safety forum as you can. I learned a lot there. Don't let your tractor kill you. Plays **** on living your dream.
Good luck. The folks on this site are great. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

 

[mjncad]

Welcome to TBN, and you are getting a lot of good advice; so I'll throw in my 2-cents worth too. If you only have 2-acres of lawn to mow, get a lawn tractor. Now I don't know diddly about horses; but if you could find a used JD 455 with a loader and mid mount mower deck, that might take care of your lawn and stable mucking chores. The 455 is a small diesel powered tractor with a Category 0 3-point hitch. Not many attachments for a Cat. 0 hitch. The JD X-series replaced the 455.

Get a loader and 4wd. I use the loader the most of any attachment I own. Since it sounds like a cab is out of the question $$ wise, get a canopy to keep the sun off in summer. I can't help you on the hay portion of your tractor needs.

As others have said, go look at the tractors and see what you like. Also a good dealer relatively close by is important. It's also good if there are other dealers within a distance you feel comfortable with should the nearest dealer turn out to be a jerk. There is a Kioti dealer about 15-miles from me; but he is a schmuck in my opinion. The next nearest Kioti dealer is over a 100-miles away as I recall. That's not close. I have 4 Deere dealers within a 50-mile radius to choose from.

I've just purchased my dream farm. 50 acres of hay fields leased to a farmer to take off hay. The house and barn are on 4 acres, about 2 acres of lawn to mow, 100' of gravel drive in a very snowy drifty area.
I will want to:
put in a good size veggie garden Will you need a tiller? If so, tiller choices appear to become limited on the smaller tractors.
put in 5 paddocks about 2 acres each (post holes) 3-point hitch post hole diggers are a pain in the butt. Rent a hydraulically powered one on a skidsteer. Being able to reverse an auger is handy if it gets caught on a rock or something. You can't do that with a 3-point hitch digger.
work the area behind the barn (60'x200') into a riding arena, now gravel.
Move hay bales, manure other stable things.
My first priority is going to be snow removal/plowing, then other attachments as needed. Until you can afford a blower, the loader will remove snow. But it becomes problematic as to where to put it if you have lots to move. Make sure the tractor you buy can handle a blower.
I first thought of getting an large ATV because it would be fun after working all day. Now after reading this forum I think I will need a compact/subcompact tractor.
Any advice for my situation appreciated!

 

[rtdiggr]

Kmully congrats on your purchase, i am sure it is an exciting time for you. There has been alot of great advice given here already.
I don't think we live to far apart [i am in Welland] I have been to almost every dealer within 1 1/2 hours of me. If you want PM me and i can share some choices i have made and why, you are more then welcome to come for a visit to see and try my tractor and implements.
There are a couple of JD dealers in the area. Kubota, NH and of course Massey also.

Shane

 

[gemini5362]

I have 40 acres, (hence my name), of which about 20 are fields, mowed with the rotary cutter (bushhog). I have several swampy (boggy to y'all up north, I reckon) areas. My tractor is light enough with the wide R4 tires and 4WD to move across the muck without sinking, but heavy enough to load the FEL with dirt and haul it around. I also have a two+ acre pond that needs spillway maintenance. My 3 acres of lawn, plus 3.5 miles of walking trails are maintained with the finishing mower. I do more wrenching on the attachments than on the tractor. I use the FEL constantly. I don't own a phd, but borrowed one on two occasions to put up the fence posts. Snow is only a rumor in these parts.
Here's some of my experiences. Perhaps you'll find useful info...
Bought a used Ford 4000 (20+ years) to start with. Worked pretty good for two years, except the skinny R1 ag tires with 2WD would break throug the crust on the swamp and bury the tractor right quick. Then it started having little problems. I'd spend two hours fixing the tractor before I could use it at least once a week. Mostly minor repairs, but aggravating, especially when I had to spend the day going to buy a new part and installing it. When I got the okay from the CFO, I went shopping. I started with a basic price range, ($18K) and then started looking at everything available for that price. I compared weights, horsepower, attachments, #of speeds (forward AND reverse) or other type of transmission (some don't really have specific gears [HST]). I got the Kubota, (about $21K) because I felt that it had the most horsepower for the money, but still was the right size for my needs. I've never wished I had a smaller tractor, but occasionally have desired a bigger one, (mostly when trying to move a lot of dirt).
Things I found I couldn't live without, but didn't know until I got the new tractor: 4 wheel drive (I highly recommend it), R4 tires (your needs may vary) rear hydraulic controls, power steering, comfortable seat.
As for attachments, I buy them as I can afford them, but mostly I buy with an eye to the future. I want stuff that will make my life easier when I'm old and feeble. The sickle bar mower was expensive, but I can cut along the edges of the pond with no trouble. Way better than a hand held gas trimmer. Along with attachments, I've had to add to my tool collection. I'm a tool fanatic, but here's two I use all the time: an impact wrench (mine's electric) and a torque wrench. They are easy to learn to use. Finishing mowers cut just like a lawn mower and eliminate an additional gas engine that must be maintained. However, the blades will need to be removed for sharpening. The FEL is great for lifting the mower to get at the bottom.
Safety: Since you say you are a tractor newbie, I highly recommend reading as much of the safety forum as you can. I learned a lot there. Don't let your tractor kill you. Plays **** on living your dream.
Good luck. The folks on this site are great. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

This poster brings up a good point that we dont talk about very often on here and that is tools that you need for regular tractor maintenance. The assumption is that we all have a million dollars worth of hand/electric tools or that we shop at harbor freight and only have a few hundred thousand dollars worth. Either way there are some basic needs that you really need as a tractor owner. I am going to start here and then I think start a new post on this subject. I noticed that he said he had a electric torque wrench. I have one of those and I think they are Ok. I never use mine because I have a air impact wrench which I like better. I think my 2 cents worth here is going to be to recommend a good Air Compressor. The new style seems to be to go for a good oilless compressor. I have three of those and will never ever buy another one. They work good but if you forget and leave it on with something that will leak down and have it cycle quite a while you will be rebuilding that compressor pretty quickly ( I imagine you can guess how I know that) Depending on the compressor the parts can be cheap or expensive I have two 30 gallon 5 horse compressors. I buy my piston and rings from the same supply shop. One of them costs 15.00 for those parts the other one costs 50.00. Oilless ones are a bit more maintenance but have a lot longer life span.