Ever break a tap?

[jgmo]

Well....I don't have tons of advice to give about taps or drilling that would be any better than what's already been offered here.

And I have zero experience. with the extractor you ordered.

Just wanted to tell you about a tool called RESCUE BIT.

It's for "digging out" broken fasteners, taps, drills from holes you need to save and use.

It is relatively expensive.

But, as a long time mechanic, it's another one of those tools I wouldn't be without.

And they last IF you follow the directions provided.

They come in several shank sizes including 1/8" that fit Dremel chucks and collets.

Good luck.

 

[charlessenf]

I needed to attach that (switch) box to the column

Years ago I attached a 12VDC oscillating fan to the 'ceiling' of my Chevy G20 Van. The mounting bracket was drilled but there was NO WAY I was going to drill matching holes through the ceiling/roof of the van. The bracket was a one inch square with channels to hold the fan mounting plate. I had some 3M 5200 Marine Sealant and spread a dollup of the stuff where i wanted the mount and pressed the bracket in place.

I left it for couple of days before mounting the fan. Five or six years later, junking the van to make the wife happy, I removed the fan from the bracket and began removing that little piece of steel.

Jeeze, the effort required! Finally, a length of piano wire and a pair of vise grip piano wire holders let me salvage the bracket.

I have repaired my boots with the stuff - but do NOT buy in bulk because it has an actual shelf life and can solidify in the unopened container on you shop shelf. Better to purchase as close to the actual quantity required as possible.

"3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200,, White, 295 mL, 1 Cartridge, Watertight Bonging/Sealing of Gelcoat $33.10 Walmart 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200,, White, 295 mL, 1 Cartridge, Watertight Bonging/Sealing of Gelcoat - Walmart.com"

 

[akajun]

If it’s a through hole and you have a plasma cutter , simply turn it up and blow it out with a quick pull of the trigger
Next option is the same but with a cutting torch
Last option , weld it out with washers and nuts and unscrew it

Tap extractors never work if you broke off the tap from binding, which it sounds like you did

 

[charlessenf]

That's generally true for end mills for the non-production type machine shop, don't think that necessarily applies to taps

OFF TOPIC but, since you motioned END MILLS and I need to put a shallow 5/8" diameter locating 'hole' in a hunk of 1/2" thick steel to serve as the support plate laid up against the Floor Joist beam(s).

I wonder if I could mount a 5/8" diameter End Mill in my 5/8" drill chuck and use it as I might a standard drill bit to bore a shallow hole in the steel plate.

Maybe lower the RPMs to ??? and use plenty of cutting oil?

Possible? Plausible? Pitfalls?

Anyone jnow for certain?

 

[MTGreen]

OFF TOPIC but, since you motioned END MILLS and I need to put a shallow 5/8" diameter locating 'hole' in a hunk of 1/2" thick steel to serve as the support plate laid up against the Floor Joist beam(s).

I wonder if I could mount a 5/8" diameter End Mill in my 5/8" drill chuck and use it as I might a standard drill bit to bore a shallow hole in the steel plate.

Maybe lower the RPMs to ??? and use plenty of cutting oil?

Possible? Plausible? Pitfalls?

Anyone jnow for certain?

Yes it's possible, especially if you are trying to make a perpendicular hole. Use the lowest speed the drill press will go, cutting oil, and make VERY sure everything is clamped down as best you can make it -part, vise, and table too. Understand that you will need to put some constant pressure on the end mill as the cutting forces will cause the mill to pull down and the chuck may pop out of the mating taper which can be a hazardous situation. Use a 4 flute HSS center cutting end mill - if you can't find a center cutting one in that size, you will need to make a small hole in the center to compensate before plunging the end mill.
If you're trying an angled hole, you likely will have less success as the drill press table is not set up to contain lateral forces and you are likely to break your end mill.

Also if you are making a through hole or you don't need a flat bottom to the hole, you are better off with a silver and Deming type reduced shank drill bit

 

[charlessenf]

Use a 4 flute HSS center cutting end mill - if you can't find a center cutting one in that size, you will need to make a small hole in the center to compensate before plunging the end mill.

Yes, perpendicular into 1/2" steel plate < 1/8" deep

if you are making a through hole or you don't need a flat bottom to the hole

Right, may not NEED a flat bottom hole, but prefer it.

End Mill, 5/8" 4 Flute, HSS, 1/2" shank​

When they list 5/8" X 5/8" the first value is the cutter and teh second is the shank, right?

I am not certain my chuck will take a 5/8" diameter shank!

 

[MTGreen]

Yes, perpendicular into 1/2" steel plate < 1/8" deep

Right, may not NEED a flat bottom hole, but prefer it.

End Mill, 5/8" 4 Flute, HSS, 1/2" shank​

When they list 5/8" X 5/8" the first value is the cutter and teh second is the shank, right?

I am not certain my chuck will take a 5/8" diameter shank!

Yes cutter diameter first followed by shank diameter. Many 1/2" chucks open up a bit more than 1/2 -heavier drill presses commonly have a Jacobs model that opens to 5/8.
That pictured one looks like a reduced shank likely 1/2" if that is a pic of the actual product

 

[LD1]

That's generally true for end mills for the non-production type machine shop, don't think that necessarily applies to taps

Not really even true for end mills. Flute count dont matter too much for various materials. But flute angle is often different for aluminum specific end mills. (or non ferrous).

But 2-flute is the common go-to for precise slotting or key-way milling. Because 4-flute tends to mill a little oversized and/or offset the slot from where you actually want it by a few thousandths

OFF TOPIC but, since you motioned END MILLS and I need to put a shallow 5/8" diameter locating 'hole' in a hunk of 1/2" thick steel to serve as the support plate laid up against the Floor Joist beam(s).

I wonder if I could mount a 5/8" diameter End Mill in my 5/8" drill chuck and use it as I might a standard drill bit to bore a shallow hole in the steel plate.

Maybe lower the RPMs to ??? and use plenty of cutting oil?

Possible? Plausible? Pitfalls?

Anyone jnow for certain?

I didnt see any mention of a drill press??

Yes you can do it in a RIGID press. But if you are thinking free-handing a endmill in place of a drill, forget it. Ever try a hole saw without a pilot bit.....basically the same thing

 

[MTGreen]

Not really even true for end mills. Flute count dont matter too much for various materials. But flute angle is often different for aluminum specific end mills. (or non ferrous).

But 2-flute is the common go-to for precise slotting or key-way milling. Because 4-flute tends to mill a little oversized and/or offset the slot from where you actually want it by a few thousandths

I didnt see any mention of a drill press??

Yes you can do it in a RIGID press. But if you are thinking free-handing a endmill in place of a drill, forget it. Ever try a hole saw without a pilot bit.....basically the same thing

I suppose I should have said "hobbyist" shop here as opposed to "non-production", thanks for clarifying.
And yes good point I assumed a drill press!

 

[zzvyb6]

I use mine for lawnmower storage & maintenance.