TGD
Bronze Member
I was going to also suggest spray welding as a way of bringing the crank journals back to standard specs. Have to find a good machine shop that specializes in engine rebuilds to get it done properly. Then you can use standard rods and bearings and yes I would replace the rods, they may have stretched or deformed some when it seized. If the cylinders are scored badly from a broken ring, replace the liners. If the rings did not break, then cleaning any aluminum off with a hone (from melted pistons) from the liners will likely work and remain within factory tolerance. Pistons should be checked closely or replaced and any that had a broken ring will have to be replaced.
A good machine shop specializing in rebuilding engines like I mentioned above can handle all this for a reasonable cost (as compared to a new or rebuilt engine), but it is still a costly mistake.
Camshaft and bearings are likely to be ok as the crank and pistons will seize before the camshaft runs dry enough to harm something.
I would not run it any more as you could throw a rod and damage the block. Have a flatbed wrecker bring it to the shop if you or someone you know does not have a trailer and a way to put it on the trailer.
A good machine shop specializing in rebuilding engines like I mentioned above can handle all this for a reasonable cost (as compared to a new or rebuilt engine), but it is still a costly mistake.
Camshaft and bearings are likely to be ok as the crank and pistons will seize before the camshaft runs dry enough to harm something.
I would not run it any more as you could throw a rod and damage the block. Have a flatbed wrecker bring it to the shop if you or someone you know does not have a trailer and a way to put it on the trailer.