Engine Overhaul Kama 554

[3RRL]

1st oil and then wipe off the gasket. Then....A thin patina of rtv silicone rubber on one slde and grease or nothing on the other. If you ever take it apart again the silicone will release cleanly leaving the gasket stuck intact on the other side. Reapply rtv for reuse.
larry

Hmmm, great idea Larry.
I noticed how the gaskets (every one of them) have to be razor-bladed off and wire-brushed cleaned on every surface. What a pain. Not only that, but every gasket is destroyed so you have to make or buy a new one every time.
Your suggestion would save a lot of time and effort for future endeavors.

Anybody have other suggestions about that? Is that how ya'll do it?
Thanks,
Rob-

 

[Bob Rooks]

Anybody have other suggestions about that? Is that how ya'll do it?
Thanks,
Rob-

I use the "green death" Cat cement on the removable part side of the gasket (coat gasket and part). and anti-seize or Teflon thread sealant, sparingly, (depending on application) on the major component side. The gasket always remains in perfect condition.

 

[biggerten]

Ya know what? You folks could have given me that hint a long time ago, it could have saved me a lot of pain.

Thanks for sharing.

Now, I gotta go find a hammer and beat my head for not thinking of it myself.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I use the "green death" Cat cement on the removable part side of the gasket (coat gasket and part). and anti-seize or Teflon thread sealant, sparingly, (depending on application) on the major component side. The gasket always remains in perfect condition.

Your choice. I like mine, usually, to stay on the major component because when removing the cover sometimes it will slip sideways and encounter something on the major component. If the gasket is sticking out it can be easily damaged in collusion with Murphy.
larry

 

[Bob Rooks]

........... to stay on the major component because when removing the cover sometimes it will slip sideways and encounter something on the major component.

If you use the Cat gasket cement, the gasket is going nowhere - period. My logic for NOT cementing to the major component is in the very rare case the gasket has to be removed, it is much more convenient to scrape away on a small flange than hang by your feet next to an immovable object (figuratively speaking). When I worked for Cat we had a standing joke about the "green death", in that if you made up an assembly with it on both sides of the gasket it would render the bolts redundant. It should be noted that this does not apply to head gaskets.


In the case where there was no gasket used (ie. fuel pump flanges - metal-to-metal), the Cat red brushable gasket material was used. Both great products.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Ya know what? You folks could have given me that hint a long time ago, it could have saved me a lot of pain.

Thanks for sharing.

Now, I gotta go find a hammer and beat my head for not thinking of it myself.

Being a mechanic with many certs and an engineer for the past twenty-odd years can produce volumes of trivia, but the main thing is to ask the right questions. There are always answers waiting for the right question to be asked......but not necessarily by me.

 

[3RRL]

Good to know both sides of the story...

OK, today I got the oil pump and crankshaft out.
Shown are the old and new of each, and a mess on my steel breakdown table.

 

[dcyrilc]

Good to know both sides of the story...

OK, today I got the oil pump and crankshaft out.
Shown are the old and new of each, and a mess on my steel breakdown table.

Rob, if that's what you call a mess... you're welcome to come over and make a mess out of my shop anytime!

 

[3RRL]

Well, OK maybe not as big a mess as I thought.

I removed all the crankshaft and connecting rod caps.
You can see from the photos below that the bolts come off with the caps. I had marked each of the rod caps before, and the main caps are numbered 1 through 5. The numbering pad is shaped like an arrow (sort of), and all the arrows must face towards the front of the engine. Also shown below are the new main bearings. One half (the bottom half) has the oil galley hole and internal groove and the other has the start of the oil groove on each end only. That bearing goes into the cap. When installing the bottom ones, be sure to line up the oil galley holes.

 

[SPIKER]

Well, OK maybe not as big a mess as I thought.

I removed all the crankshaft and connecting rod caps.

looks like the old bearing in that cap is pretty rough shape?

mark

 

[3RRL]

looks like the old bearing in that cap is pretty rough shape?

mark

Yes Mark, in fact they all looked like that.
That might account for some of the oil pressure lost?

Of particular importance on this engine is journal #4.
That one is where the oil pump starts to move fluid through it and from there into the rest of the oil galleys. Number 4 also has 2 sets of spacers, and one half of each set has a tab. The photos below show those spacer bearings and where they are located. Note that the tab half goes into the cap, which has a pocket for it. There are also oil pick-ups (machined recesses) on both halves of each set. The last 2 photos show that those should be pointed away, to the right and left of the cap, and away from the journal bearings.

 

[dcyrilc]

Well, OK maybe not as big a mess as I thought.

I removed all the crankshaft and connecting rod caps.
You can see from the photos below that the bolts come off with the caps. I had marked each of the rod caps before, and the main caps are numbered 1 through 5. The numbering pad is shaped like an arrow (sort of), and all the arrows must face towards the front of the engine. Also shown below are the new main bearings. One half (the bottom half) has the oil galley hole and internal groove and the other has the start of the oil groove on each end only. That bearing goes into the cap. When installing the bottom ones, be sure to line up the oil galley holes.

The only engines I ever rebuilt were gas V-8s. It seems strange seeing the cam off to the side like that.

 

[3RRL]

After writing down all those details, I finally lifted the crank out.
Shees, it was heavier than I thought. I also noted that each of the main caps were pocketed into the journal web so they can not spring out. They are fit with a slight interference fit. Anyway, I got the crank out and started to remove the pulley bolt and gear to put on the new crank. I wore my best flannel for that picture.



Loretta and I spent the rest of the day removing old torn gaskets.
Tomorrow we'll start cutting out new ones. When the new rod bearings arrive, I can install them and the main bearings.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Also shown below are the new main bearings. One half (the bottom half) has the oil galley hole and internal groove and the other has the start of the oil groove on each end only. That bearing goes into the cap. When installing the bottom ones, be sure to line up the oil galley holes.

Im thinking top is bottom with the engine upside down?
larry

 

[IH3444]

Those half moon "washers" Robb, are the crankshaft thrust "washers" bearings. When the engine is running, or especially when the clutch is depressed, those washers take the load of the throwout bearing pressing onto the pressure plate, attached to the flywheel, bolted to the crankshaft. There is a slight thrusting of the crankshaft while the engine is just running, and a greater thrust when the engine is under load. They are constantly flooded with oil. Volkswagen diesel engines have the same type of thrust bearings.

 

[3RRL]

Im thinking top is bottom with the engine upside down?
larry

Ha, lol Larry, you are right.
I should have used some other word besides "bottom".
When referring to the part (that half) which bolts to the connecting rod or main bearing half, "Cap" is alright to use. But where I say "bottom" I mean the other half that the cap bolts to. I guess it's the engine block side.
Of course, I knew you were never confused...

 

[3RRL]

Those half moon "washers" Robb, are the crankshaft thrust "washers" bearings. When the engine is running, or especially when the clutch is depressed, those washers take the load of the throwout bearing pressing onto the pressure plate, attached to the flywheel, bolted to the crankshaft. There is a slight thrusting of the crankshaft while the engine is just running, and a greater thrust when the engine is under load. They are constantly flooded with oil. Volkswagen diesel engines have the same type of thrust bearings.

Thank you IH3444,
I saw there purpose upon dis-assembly and figured they were a spacer of some sort.
There was no other method to keep the crank in position ... no other method to keep it moving forward and aft, relative to the linear axis of the crank. I neglected to make the connection between the clutch and TOB, and that those washers would then act as thrust washers as well. Never even crossed my mind. Not all spacers/washers do double duty like that, so thanks for pointing that out. (Another thing I learned)
Very clever design work on their behalf.

I wanted to comment that so many of the replies have helped me.
It's like serving your apprenticeship and learning while you are doing something side by side. I see there are many things I missed and didn't know about. Kind of humbling for me because when I retired from my industry, I was considered to be a knowledgeable individual. There are so many technologies that touch my industry, that I had to know about ... that I never even thought about how little I really knew.
So thanks to all!

 

[IH3444]

Rob, see the little "divets" on the washer. That allows and directs the oil to the crankshaft thrust surface. I'm certain you noticed that already. Just besure to install the new ones the same way. Great job as always.

 

[kenmac]

I love reading some of the jobs you tackleWhen I 1st starting reading this repair,I thought it had ended with the rebuild. Just looked last night & you are taking it apart again ! How many of us would have thrown in the towel by now ?? I know would . I would have already hung a for sale sign up


Good luck,
As always very good post & pics of your work

 

[dcyrilc]

Thank you IH3444,
I saw there purpose upon dis-assembly and figured they were a spacer of some sort.
There was no other method to keep the crank in position ... no other method to keep it moving forward and aft, relative to the linear axis of the crank. I neglected to make the connection between the clutch and TOB, and that those washers would then act as thrust washers as well. Never even crossed my mind. Not all spacers/washers do double duty like that, so thanks for pointing that out. (Another thing I learned)
Very clever design work on their behalf.

I wanted to comment that so many of the replies have helped me.
It's like serving your apprenticeship and learning while you are doing something side by side. I see there are many things I missed and didn't know about. Kind of humbling for me because when I retired from my industry, I was considered to be a knowledgeable individual. There are so many technologies that touch my industry, that I had to know about ... that I never even thought about how little I really knew.
So thanks to all!

It's the old saying... "The older you get, the less you know."