Engine heaters...Help!

[QRTRHRS]

I like the FPPF Total Power for my tractor fuel. Since my larger Case is 20+ years old, the injector pump is not made for todays low sulfer fuel. Therefore, I need an additive all year round anyway. Additives help with more than just cold weather jelling. http://www.fppf.com/

I had the block heater element installed on my MF 1260 when I bought it. Block heaters typically draw 750 watts so if you choose to put it on a timer, buy a heavy one like for a domestic hot water heater.

I have heard the claim that you should unplug a block heater before you start your engine. Supposedly, a blast of cold water can burn it out. I admit to having done just this but have never lost an element. Just lucky maybe?

 

[mrutkaus]

I got it at Tractor Supply (was Farm and Family) a few years ago and had it laying around.

1.5" size. Take the bottom hose all the way off, check where you want it before you take the hose off. The hose is very thick and stiff. Mine is up within 1/2" or so of the radiator connection, of course the hose goes way on over onto the radiator connection.

I see some 1 1/4" ones under engine heaters on ebay, they might work fine, the 1 1/2" size was extremely difficult to get into the hose.

Mike

 

[Highbeam]

"Block heaters typically draw 750 watts so if you choose to put it on a timer, buy a heavy one like for a domestic hot water heater."

Whoa. A hot water heater pulls more than 4000 watts and is hardwired. What you want is a timer rated for the load and 750 watts is less than 7 amps. The timers usually have amp ratings and a 10 amp timer would serve you well. Be sure it is a 3 prong grounded plug just like the heater.

Of course, you only need a timer if you want it to heat up every day at a certain time. If you just want to warm it up before starting it on the occasional weekend day or for snow duty after a storm then you can manually plug it in before you want to run it.

 

[JerryG]

If anyone wants to know what is normal as to temperatures, size, what will work and the different types of engine heaters available go to this site and download the ZeroStart Product Catalog.

 

[billbill1]

The NAPA stores here in Kansas sell the inline radiator hose heaters and I think I paid around $30 for mine. I plug it in for about 30 minutes and the tractor fires right up. Easy to install if you have the room, maybe a 10 minute job. I have used a timer in the past but don't usually get to use the tractor other than the weekends so I plug it in before I use the tractor. No coughing and sputtering and it gives me peace of mind. I believe they were sold in 1/4" increments from 1" up.

 

[SteveM]

I have a similar older small diesel, will not start without a block or radiator heater, so for ease of installation, I vote for radiator hose. BTW, I disagree with the kerosene heater idea...it will take forever and a huge amount of convection heat to warm up the bone cold engine/fluids. You want to work with conduction, not convection. I had my CUT in a shop with a heater for a while, and even if I brought the shop to 50 degrees for an hour, I still had trouble starting...compare that waste of fuel oil to the small electric cost of a block heater and instand starts....

Also, i do have a couple magnetic heaters, I slap them on the oil pan, cant say it makes a huge difference, but it certainly should keep the oil thinner in the super cold stuff...

 

[cp1969]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( BTW, I disagree with the kerosene heater idea...it will take forever and a huge amount of convection heat to warm up the bone cold engine/fluids. )</font>

I wouldn't have offered that suggestion except that I have already done it myself, many times. It works, it doesn't take long. You'd be surprised at what 30 minutes worth of kerosene heat under a tarp will do.

It is not as good as a block heater, but if you don't have a block heater.......

 

[JSUnlimited]

My 2 cents worth,

I leave mine plugged in all of the time below freezing. The heating element is in place of one of the soft plugs in the block.

 

[JoeL4330]

There are two other alternatives worth thinking about for controlling heater: there are thermostatically controlled plugs (usually used for heat tapes that go around pipes) and, with Christmas close by, stores are selling remote control outdoor plugs so you can turn on/off from a (warm) distance

 

[QRTRHRS]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( "Block heaters typically draw 750 watts so if you choose to put it on a timer, buy a heavy one like for a domestic hot water heater."

Whoa. A hot water heater pulls more than 4000 watts and is hardwired. What you want is a timer rated for the load and 750 watts is less than 7 amps. The timers usually have amp ratings and a 10 amp timer would serve you well. Be sure it is a 3 prong grounded plug just like the heater.

Of course, you only need a timer if you want it to heat up every day at a certain time. If you just want to warm it up before starting it on the occasional weekend day or for snow duty after a storm then you can manually plug it in before you want to run it.
)</font>I park my diesel pickup in an open front barn next to my tractors. When I don't need the truck warm for going to work, I usually have plans involving the tractor so I plug that in instead. I chose a water heater timer because they come in a reletively weatherproof plastic box which I mounted right below my outlet which has an inuse cover. I just took an extention cord and wired it in so I can plug one end into the outlet and the other into the truck/tractors. True, the timer is overkill but for $30 plus the cord, I am set.

Tip: If for some reason your tractor won't start in the cold, direct some 500W halogen lights onto the injection pump. Keep an eye on it, you don't want to melt anything. Another aid is a hairdryer or heat gun blowing warm air into the air intake.

 

[jimainiac]

I put the O. E. block heater in our Kubota, and someone told me to unplug it before starting or it could be damaged. That doesn't make any sense to me. Does anyone know what the facts are, here?

 

[Charolais]

If the coolant is low there could be an air pocket pulled through the system. Most of those heating elements will burn out if not in the coolant when heating. They are designed to be wet when plugged in.

 

[Egon]

Well ???-- There could a problem. One forgetts the cord is still plugged in and drive away. People use various means of looping cords in obvious places to avoid this problem.

I usually find out after I see the long blue snake following me!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


:

 

[togoffrd]

The magnetic heater will be the quickest and easiest to install, but as others have said, some sort of coolant heater is best.

Back when I was growing up, there was a long cold spell that lasted a while being below 0º, nothing on the place would start, my dad had used the white gas camping stove under one of the vehicles until it was warm enough to start. Amazing what multi weight oil, fuel injection and better battery technology does in the cold.

I know that open flames, oil, gasoline/diesel fuel and other flammable materials are very dangerous together, and I am not recommending doing this, but it did work.

 

[chriswheeler]

Put mine on a couple of weeks ago. Bought a lower hose heater from Napa auto parts and it works well. I woke up to 4 degrees and the tractor block was @ 100 degrees and holding. This thing only uses 375 watts. I have a magnettic heater that is 400 watts that doesn't work nearly as well. Be carefull about the hose size, my little Yanmar uses a 1 1/16" dia hose fitting on a YM 3000, 1 1/4" is way to large for their lower hose. Now it starts in less than 1 turn of the starter.
Chris

 

[Egon]

Some people resorted to a bucket of hot ash, perferably coal. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Others relied on the trusty chore team to pull the vehicle till it started. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon