Enclosed Trailer Advice

[Spanky100]

Looking to purchase an enclosed trailer to haul and winter store a soon to be purchased tractor, front end loader, and rear rotary cutter. The equipment will be used about 6 months of the year at home and vacant land that needs to be cut (5 acres to cut)a couple times a year to keep it from getting overgrown.

The highest weight tractor I am considering is a Kioti CK35 with 130 loader and 5 foot rotary cutter. The weight (lbs) is 3200 tractor, 800 loader, and 800 for 5 ft rotary cutter. Total say around 5000 lbs. Likely will need at least a 7 ft by 22 ft trailer to fit in and position tractor for weight distribution. I suspect this size trailer would weigh at least 2500 lbs empty. Tractor and trailer at least 7500 pounds. Thus likely would need a trailer with two 5200 pound axles with brakes for both axles. Estimated total towing miles per year would be 3000.

Most of the enclosed trailers I see have 3/4 plywood floor over 16 to 24 inch on center crossmembers. D-rings are installed to secure load. My initial concern is: are enclosed trailers typically used as car haulers sufficient strength to haul CUT with implements? Should I get "barn doors" and use detachable ramps in place of the ramp door.

Looking for other thoughts and advice to make the correct decision. Any manufacturers come to mind. Do the V-nose trailers reduce the wind drag much or are the just used to add storage at the V section of trailer frame.

Thanks

 

[asylum575]

I have an 8x20 car hauler enclosed trailer to store my BX24. I have my BH all the way forward, then my FEL. The BX fits behind everything.
If I were to haul the BX, the BH and FEL would have to be mounted on the tractor, because their aren't enough d rings to secure everything.

My trailer weighs about 3200 and is rated at 7K. Not much cargo, but fits my uses.

I am thinking of adding a couple of D-rings. THis way I could secure my rake, box blade and PHD up front and load the BX with the FEL and BH mounted over the axles.

I haven't seen many 22 footers, you may have to go with a 24'.

 

[scoutcub]

I have an 8' X 30' H&H that is built pretty strong. I've driven my 32HP TLB inside with no problem, actually I was loading the front of the trailer with implements including a 6' flail mower, no problem with the weight, alltogether it was approx 5000-5500lbs.

I was also a bit concerned on the door, but it was no problem holding it. I would definitely recommend the ramp door versus the barn doors.
My tractor fir between the fenderwells, I don't know if the rotary mower would fit between.....but you'd probably have enough room behind them to get it all in.

I don't know how much the V-nose helps, but it can't hurt! Has to be better that a big flat surface I would imagine.....

Good luck shopping!

 

[schmism]

ramp door... most are designed with the idea of cars/trucks driveing on them and have been designed to take it.

24' 10K version is what your going to need.

I could get my 5' brush hog with tractor and FEL on my 20' but not with the hog attached on the back of my tractor and inside the rear of my trailer.... i cant sift it forward enough with the hog on the back else i put to much toung weight on the front. So you might have to carry the hog into the trailer with the FEL to load right.

 

[Spanky100]

thanks for the help. Sounds like a 10,000 pound 8 by 24 foot car haul trailer with ramp doors should work. Will have to start looking.

Thanks again

 

[scoutcub]

Spanky -

Are you living in MI and have the vacant land in OH? Or the other way around?

I just moved from outside Detroit to south of Canton, OH.....

 

[bw_wis]

I use a 8.5x20 United enclosed trailer with 2x5200lb Dexter torflex axles. It pulls great.

I strongly advise against a ramp door for a tractor. In my research before I bought my trailer, ramp doors are not strong enough to support a tractor. The big difference being that tractors have a shorter wheel base than car and trucks. And more of the total weight is on the ramp at once. Other reasons against ramp doors is I've seen many ramp door really beat up and damaged by multipurpose users. Also swing doors allow a forklift or bobcat slide pallets, lumber, etc. into your trailer. Can't do that with ramp doors. Lastly to open the back door you need a lot more room behind the trailer.

My trailer deck is 3/4ply with framing 16"oc. The floor is strong enough to hold my, at its heaviest 4500+lbs, Kubota. I ran that way for 6 monthes and a few thousand miles. Never worried once loaded since the implements are lowered thus distributing the weight more evenly. I didn't like the flex and the groans in floor while loading/unloading. So I added a high quality 1/2"ply super deck on top. Now I feel more comfortable loading my tractors.

I would also advise going wider than 7'. I think my B2630 is smaller then your machine. My trailer starts to feel narrow sometimes with a 5' bucket and 5' BB.

And don't forget measure the door! I only clear by 1.5" (got lucky, I didn't measure overhead first.) and have lower the BH to make it fit though.

Brian

 

[bw_wis]

One other thing. If you are thinking about V-nose and need weight distribution bars. Check to be sure they will fit.

I added a couple picks loading my trailer.

Brian

 

[Spanky100]

Scoutcub ref your question on locations

Living in MI with relatives in OH so that is the reason for the two locations. With older relatives I seem to get always get a project when visiting. If it involves Tractor "seat time" that is a plus. But the last couple of visits it was fixing equipment to allow them to get the seat time when I leave.

If I ever retire my long term goal is move to east Tenessee for the shorter winters with the four seasons. I like some winter but in Michigan winter seems to stay around too long. The east TN hills would be a nice change from the flat lands I know in MI/OH.

 

[Spanky100]

bw wis

Thanks for the additional information and the pictures. The reminder about checking the weight distribution bar fit if using a V-nose. I am hoping to use the setup my father in law gave to me when he got out of trailer camping.

Earlier this week I took measurements of the CK20 and CK30/35 to better understand the fit into a trailer. All measurements were with R4 tires, FEL, and a rotary mower (4 foot for CK20 and 5 foot for CK30/35). The two combinations get long at 18.2 feet for CK20 and 21.2 feet for the CK30/35. When you consider the need to position (front to rear in the trailer) to achieve correct weight distribution the 24 foot length starts to seem none to long. Agree with your comments of going wider than 7 foot as the larger tractor has a 5 foot front bucket and rotary cutter. The other point I learned is that the 7 foot wide trailers have about the same width at their widest point (tires due to being external to the box) as the 8.5 foot wide trailers that have tires intenal to the sides.

I was thinking about adding an additional layer of wood to distribut the load over the factory built 3/4 inch floor with 16 on center. Thanks for confirming you have already done it and realized an improvement. Starting to consider the barn door with detachable ramps would be better for a tractor. What ramps are you using. the barn door are less expensive then the drive on ramp so that savings could be used for ramp purchase. The two tractor combinations with FEL and HD slip clutch rotary cutter are 3450 lbs CK20 and 4600 lbs with the CK30/35.

Just need to understand if the torsion axles (Dexter Torflex) are worth around 400 dollars over the standard leaf spring setup. Likely easier on the equipment and easier to tow on rougher roads. Either way will need two 5200 lbs axles to hold the tractor and trailer weight.

United is one of the names I am looking at and seems to offer alot for a fair price. Would you use them again?

Thanks for the help. That is a great thing about our TBN group, almost anything you are doing someone here has been there.


Spanky

 

[bw_wis]

Spanky

Suggesting a width wider than 7' has more to do with climbing in and out of the trailer when the tractor is loaded. And carrying/storing tools, spare tire, jacks, ect. I keep a two tool boxes, wrecking bars, pieces of woods for blocking, leveling, and jack pads. I always find it amazing how much stuff I find myself tripping over in there.

The ramps I built myself. They are about 7' long, 23" wide, and (I'm guessing) 70lbs each. The ramps have a lip that sits on the tail. Built so a I can use them on anything about 14"-26" high. If notice there is a rail on one side only. The ramps can be pushed together for loading anything else on wheels. By way in pics the left and right ramps are swapped. The mower deck wheel like to grab rails. If you like the design I can post more specs and pics. Or I found a few ramp builder before I decided to build my own.

I bought my trailer off a lot. Got a very good price, but also no options. No tie down points, e-track, additional lights, etc. With the Torflex axles I've next to no movement off anything while towing.

My United is very well built where it counts. Like the frame and wiring. I am a little disappointed in some of the welds that aren't structural. Some the trim and finishing work could've been better. But, YES, I would consider another United trailer.

Something else I haven't mentioned is I am planning shore the last few feet of the deck from below. Since the tail is gets the highest traffic and is the most exposure to the elements. Mine has developed a slight sag under load.

Brian

 

[bw_wis]

Here a link to another tread I started. It has more pics of my trailer and other uses for a cargo trailer.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/174908-my-swiss-army-trailer-build.html

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am not sure about the rest of the trailer world but torsion axles were very popular on boat trailers 4-5 years ago then disappeared. The reason being blown tires. The issue is with torsion axles on a tandem or tri axle trailer like I sell there is no way to balance the load somewhat evenly between the separate axles. You could have 70% of the weight on one and 30% on the other.

Conventional leaf spring setups with loaded equalizers between each axle do a very good job at evening out the load. When we weigh out a boat and trailer we find that the load is no more than 10% different on any one axle but is usually within 2-3%.

Don't get me wrong, torsion have a lot going for them. Less moving parts, less wear parts, less noise, ect. They just have draw backs also.

Chris

 

[Spanky100]

bw wis and Diamond Pilot

Thanks for the additional information.

bw wis - if you could, please add the information/specs/pictures of your own fabricated ramps when time permits. I like the idea of barn door trailer with ramps more as I ask questions on the ramp door ratings. Some will say they are a 5000 pound door when rolling and only 3500 pounds if you stop. Combine that with larger tractor only having a 66 inch wheelbase. They will offer to further upgrade the "heavy Duty " ramp door for 400 dollars more. Thus, 400 for the ramp door plus 400 for the upgrade ramp door is now 800 dollars more than the barn door. The other link to the "Swiss Trailer" pointed out that the 8.5 by 20 United trailer is your build enclosure fot the Swiss Trailer.

Diamond Pilot - Interesting point about the dual axle boat trailers and torsion axles. Helps me add more information into the decision to leave the standard 4 inch drop spring axles in place and save the added cost.

Thanks again for the information. Many things to consider with the trailer requirements. Was not this hard to purchase my 5 by 8 foot utility trailer.

Wayne

 

[bw_wis]

Spanky,

When I get home next week I'll take some pics for you. I'll post the specs with the pics.

Keep us updated.

Brian

 

[brain55]

I have had 2 different custom enclosed trailers built for myself. The first one was a TrailBoss 22' x 8' bumper pull. I was on a very limited budget and didn't realize how much weight I was really going to end up carrying. It was rated for 10K with two 5200# torqueflex axles and 10-ply tires. My application was different than yours but the lessons learned should still apply. I used it as a mobile shop, so I had all of my tools, toolbox, solvent tank, air compressor, hydraulic hose machine, benches, welder, generator, nuts, bolts, and various inventory. This trailer was poorly built on top of not being rated for the weight I ended up with. The axles lasted a year, the tires didn't last 6 months, and I was constantly rewelding he wall supports, and poked more than one hole in the 3/4" plywood floor. I upgraded to 6000 lb axles and 14-ply ires, I never had tire issues again, but the axles still only lasted a year. I'm guessing I was carrying closer to 14K in this trailer.

My newest trailer is a Wells Cargo 28' x 8' gooseneck rated for 20K with two 8000# torqueflex axles and 16-ply tires. It is far better built than my first trailer, and had the price tag to prove it. I put all of the same equipment in it, and it is holding up much better, plus I had Wells Cargo install custom cabinets and workbenches. I learned it was better to over build than to under build.

Shop some different manufacturers. For your application I would do more than the 3/4" plywood floor. Wells Cargo offered several different choices of thickness and material, I'm sure others do the same. I would consider adding more floor supports also, especially if their standard is 24". I would probably do 12" centers with tongue and groove flooring. I agree that the barn doors are probably a better choice than a ramp door, even the heavy-duty one. I can see where being able to load material with a forklift would be a big plus. Make sure the door opening is going to be tall enough to clear your ROPS. I don't see a problem with torqueflex axles. I worked for a landscape contractor that had a fleet of 10K# equipment trailers all with torqueflex axles and they were never a problem, and they were always right at the weight limit. My issues with torqueflex axles were simply from me far exceeding their weight rating. I would look at the cost difference between 5.2K and 6K axles. I would also highly recommend a weight distributing hitch also, it is such an improvement in the towing characteristics.

Brian

 

[Spanky100]

bw wis

Thanks. Still in process of purchasing tractor. The CK35/FEL I wanted as first choice was sold the day I was taking the measurements to make sure all the trailer dimensions work out. Happy for the dealer as he is a great local dealer but I still need to get a tractor. (note to self - need should be restated as 'want" as I can hire the work out but I like to do it myself and enjoy tractor time) So still working the tractor deal hopefully before the Free FEL special ends 31JL10. I might have to opt for the 27 or 30 Engine HP with same frame or can use the smaller frame CK20 but like the larger frame tractor.

Thanks again

Wayne

 

[Spanky100]

brian55

Thanks for the input from experience. I am looking for a good price on a well built trailer. Wells Cargo is sure on that list. Sure would like to go gooseneck but have to use bumper trailer as need the option to use on a truck that will not have bed mounted hitch. Will use a weight distributing hitch with antisway setup. The heaviest tractor with implements and 164 pounds for dirt and grass buildup will be at 4600 lbs. Trailer empty weight looking at 4200. So just at 9000 pounds with me on it as I drive onto the trailer for two 5200 lbs axles. Not much for other for sure. Need to add the the ramp weight. So the two 6000 axles even sound better. Now just need the tractor to finalize the plan.

Agree you can never have to much capacity. Well possibly when using my old one ton dual wheel pickup towing our small 2000 pound trailer.

Thanks

Wayne