Drying a wet road

   / Drying a wet road #11  
Peter,

Did I misunderstand or did you say that is a county road? That sure changes what you can do. I have 9/10 of a mile of community owned road that I try to keep up. I don't mind the tractor time but I do draw the line when it comes to putting the gravel it needs down. Forget anything I said about a dozer.

MarkV
 
   / Drying a wet road #12  
GlueGuy,
When our house was built in '97 a super was strongly "pushed" on us. The force of the water when it rained here would wash away all of the gravel. It takes about 120 tons of gravel at $5.00/ton to recover. I purchased a Kelley 3pt backhoe and dug 2'w x 3'd ditches and put in culverts every 100 feet this summer. So far so good. But I did find were the water line was buried!!! But I needed a bath!
Just our experience to add. Hope a super works for others!
 
   / Drying a wet road #13  
CedarRanch,

That's not surprising. I guess it depends on a lot of factors as to whether a super will work. Our driveway has a super configuration in two places, and it seems to have held up very well. We typically get around 50 inches of rain per year, although during the last El Nino, we got over 110 inches.

That said, our road is very compacted and hard. This probably also helps a lot.

The GlueGuy
 
   / Drying a wet road #14  
The Glue guy
Do you ever have trouble in freezing weather with having water run over the road and freeze on the slope? I've seen some roads where this happens. Can make things interesting.
Egon
 
   / Drying a wet road
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Yes, it's a town road, but its classification provides for zero maintenance from the town. I own the land, but it's a public right of way. It creates an interesting problem because although I'm willing to maintain it for my own use and convenience, I'm not really allowed to since it's a town road. As you can imagine, taking a backhoe to a town road is generally not socially acceptable behavior. But the town doesn't maintain it either so I'm willing to.... you see the problem.

The solution has been to "consult" the town road agent about how to best maintain it, and to consult with the other land owners along the road (fortunately there are only two) before breaking ground. The road agent was extreemly helpful and walked the whole road with me pointing out how to address the various issues, what size pipe to use for the culverts, etc. He even kicked in some culvert pipe and offered to provide some fill and maybe even a pass or two with a road grader. He preached that it's all about drainage, drainage, drainage. We talked about road fabric, which he loves, but he repeated the need to begin with proper drainage. He was a huge help and I learned a lot.

Getting back to your comment, I've put crushed stone down before to get logging trucks in during harvests, and I don't mind adding more, but I don't want it all to sink to the center of the earth. Brings us right back to drainage. My thinking is to get the drainage all worked out first, then do road fabric followed by stone and/or hard pack (pick your local name for the stuff) where the final surface needs improving.

I'm hoping to get more grading done this fall before the surface freezes and hopefully next spring will be a prettier scene.
 
   / Drying a wet road #16  
Do you ever have trouble in freezing weather with having water run over the road and freeze on the slope?

We don't get that much freezing weather here. It would be interesting if it did happen though. One of the spots with the sup has about a 2000' drop into Devil's Canyon. It would be an interesting ride, with a very unhappy ending. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

The GlueGuy
 
   / Drying a wet road #17  
Hayden,

Why don't you ask the town to provide you the materials and you do the work per their engineering specs? May take a couple of years but it could be a win/win situation for you, your neighbors, and the town.

Never hurts to ask.

Terry
 
   / Drying a wet road #18  
Hayden,

I have a much better understanding of the situation now. You actually have an advantage over us, in that the county will at least offer advice. If you can get your ditches in, as they suggest, their grader can do an amazing amount of work for you in a short time. The graders have so many adjustments we don’t have with our tractors. A good operator can crown the road, smooth it out and work the ditches so fast it will make you want to buy one. (Until you price them)

Keep us up on how the project goes. Good luck this winter.

MarkV
 
   / Drying a wet road #19  
An alternative, or addition to a super might be a "grade dip" to allow water to cross the road without destroying it.

Basically, it's a cheaper, low-tech alternative to installing a culvert. Part of your road actually becomes a 50 ft shallow "ditch" followed by a mound or "speed bump". The article at this link http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/burris48.html gives a description of how to make one. I didn't do a very good job of describing it.

I do believe there is one mistake in the article, however. It mentions a 30 to 45 degree rise in the mound... this does not make sense, as the height would end up at 6 to 10 feet (quite a speed bump).

Worth taking a look at for ideas, anyway.
 
   / Drying a wet road
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I did some more work on this road section. The attached photos show how I left it last spring after trenching to collect the water and installing culvert pipes to drain the water to the downhill side of the road. The trenching left a wall of dirt between the road surface and the trenches and left a low spot in the road for water to collect.

This past weekend I used the grader blade to cut down the dirt mounds and move that material to the road surface. The result is a nicely (at least for someone doing this for the first time) crowned road surface that slopes to the sides into ditches. Now all the water should shed away.

The photo at the top is from last spring and shows the road, ditch, and wall of dirt between the two.

The photo at the bottom is from yesterday showing the same stretch of road properly graded.

I now have a full appreciation for the value of Hydraulic Top and Tilt.
 

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