Neat 1500
Platinum Member
I agree, my hat off to you sir.
Traction Drive train YANMAR FX24D
- Thread starter GWSMITH
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I agree, my hat off to you sir.
grainger12002
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2002
- Messages
- 806
- Location
- Pomfret,Connecticut
- Tractor
- yanmar 336d w ldr,Cub,many attachments
Third here, Winston, sure would like a neighbor like you !! what did u attribute the failure too ? did u do bothe the ring and pinion ? Looks great...of course
Thank you "all" for the kind comments. I am just going to go with what tractor Ernie has stated in former posts about these models being weak in that area and possibly not using an overrun clutch and shocking things. I have only changed the ring gear. I checked tooth contact with Prussion blue and set the backlash. I did this with GWSMITH's approval. The pinion looks untouched. The original ring and pinion are slicker than a mink. The aftermarket gears both have very noticeable machine marks left. Not claiming to be an expert by any means but I feel pretty comfortable leaving the original pinion because of the contact I am getting. It does come with a Sears & Robuck guarantee.
Trying to be funny but anytime I do something like this my stomach sort of knots up until things prove out. Hoping to get it all back together and going this next week.Now the bad news. I should have caught this before but when I picked up the tractor from GW I noticed the coolant level to be pretty low. To shorten the story I topped it off while waiting on parts. Upon cranking up and after running through the gears slowly, I then increased rpm and when I did so, coolant began coming out the overflow bottle. Upon a little further testing there was no doubt the head gasket was blown. Number 1 cylinder, I assume, the one closest to the firewall. Not positive the F series cylinders are numbered the same as the ym series. I'm posting a few pictures, not for instruction, just for those interested in what the FX24D engine looks like. A .002" feeler gauge would not slide under a straight edge in any configuration so parts are ordered to put it back together. Valves look good. You can still see hatch marks in the cylinders. Seems strange, but notice the inner firewall attached to the head. That comes off with the head. I check valve clearance before head removal. They all checked right around .008". Does anyone know for sure what the clearance is suppose to be? The head bolts on this thing are not re-usable and it takes 14 of them. I have requested torque value with my order. I am having problems with my picture program. If I get it going I will add some pictures later.
Good news and bad news. So far a success story on the ring and pinion gear. Have not really put a test to it yet. I cranked her off on jack stands to slowly run through the gears and check pto before taking to the road. Everything checked out ok so far. Knock on wood.
Well silly me, I had two windows opened waiting on my picture program and posted this thread last instead of first. Old age!
Well silly me, I had two windows opened waiting on my picture program and posted this thread last instead of first. Old age!
grainger12002
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2002
- Messages
- 806
- Location
- Pomfret,Connecticut
- Tractor
- yanmar 336d w ldr,Cub,many attachments
how were you able to set the backlash ? As you stated they match up very close and the mounting is such that setting backlash is almost install and make sure its not too tight...?
Great work
Great work
Mickey_Fx
Veteran Member
Winston, thanks for all the pics. Get to see what the inner working of my tractor looks like without having to tear into anything.
Notice shims 16, 17 and 18. This one originally had 3 of the .5mm shims. To get proper backlash I replace those 3 with one .005" shim. Cut it out of roll shim stock. One of reference 15s jobs is for the brake disc to run against on the outside. On the inside it holds a differential bearing and the shims that push it in or allow it to go further out. Very interesting arrangement. There is absolutely nothing to keep the differential from going toward the pinion except tooth contact. The small bearing (12) is free floating in the housing. Nothing at all to hold the large bearing (13) from coming in other than tooth contact.
The backlash actually varies from a tight .004" to around .008" depending on ring gear location. This run out is on the ring gear, not the pinion gear. I'm gambling this will work. I don't think we want to go looking for a new differential carrier. Checked this with a dial indicator at the tip of the ring gear tooth. This picture shows #15 pretty good. It rolls right up against that brake disc, shims go into the other side to push the bearing shown on the differential carrier toward the pinion shaft. I hope I've made a little sense here.
Thought I might add from what manuals I have the backlash should be between .004" and .006".
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Got my order number from Hoye, got parts cleaned up, run a tap down all head bolt holes so am sitting on go when the parts arrive. Talking about head parts here. I guess I should have started a new thread with the head. Oh well. :confused3:
Just got an email showing UPS to deliver by the end of the day tomorrow. Wooooppeeee :licking:
Just got an email showing UPS to deliver by the end of the day tomorrow. Wooooppeeee :licking:
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grainger12002
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2002
- Messages
- 806
- Location
- Pomfret,Connecticut
- Tractor
- yanmar 336d w ldr,Cub,many attachments
Great description Winston- The setup procedure makes sense thanks to your explaination,should work fine,i have always been told that yanmars can be field set up without regard to backlash and as you stated its not easy to do without the shims and set up instruction.....anyway good luck with the top side of the project and let us know how it turns out,no doubt you will have a very reliable unit
From CT
From CT
I got it translated. It says Creep gear.
Success, woooopeee. We are up and running. Everything looking good. Still haven't taken it out to cut donuts or anything as it's been raining all night but about quit now. If it doesn't drive out ok I will be back. I bled the air at the two air bleeds, cranked it over with compression release for 5 seconds, release in for 5 seconds and nothing. Went back and bled both air bleeds again, spun her over with compression release for 5 seconds, pushed it in and contact.
Took a video but not smart enough to do anything with it. Took a little video but not smart enough to make it work on the computer. Thanks to all who have offered advice and encouragement.
TGeorge
Member
Congratulations!
bacrow
Bronze Member
Wow! Impressive work Winston. Do you have a Youtube account that you could upload that video? My tractor sounds a little funny when it is running and I have a suspicion there may be trouble there, but I have almost zero experience with diesel.
Greetings, I am the proud owner of the FX24 that was the subject of this thread. More importantly I consider myself a friend of my brother in Christ, Winston1.
I initially came here in search of some help with the tractor which had lost drive to the REAR wheels. Winston1 fortunately lived fairly, close and offered his help. He was more than just help, he worked the project, I was laid up with knee replacement surgery.
If every site I ever visited on the WEB provided the same degree of genuine interest in solving problems instead of looking to rip off an uneducated rube we would all be better off. Thanks for the knowledgeable input for all who posted here to solve this problem. Particularly Winston1.
GWSmith
irq
New member
Hello, the thread seems to be quite old, but I'll try to ask a question. Maybe some of you will answer.
I've got Yanmar FX24 and because of the portal axle leak I had to dismantle it and install a new gasket.
After putting it all together everything was ok except 4x4 drive pedal. I mean until the repair I was able to press the 4x4 pedal down and it stood in the pressed position. Right now after pressing the pedal, it comes back to upper position and I can't turn on 4x4 drive. Can anyone explain what could happen that the pedal doesn't stay in down position?
One more thing. To attach the front drive one have to move the shifter (number 1 on the photo) down. But I don't exactly know what this pedal (number 2 on the picture) is for. Can anyone explain that to me?
Thanks.
I've got Yanmar FX24 and because of the portal axle leak I had to dismantle it and install a new gasket.
After putting it all together everything was ok except 4x4 drive pedal. I mean until the repair I was able to press the 4x4 pedal down and it stood in the pressed position. Right now after pressing the pedal, it comes back to upper position and I can't turn on 4x4 drive. Can anyone explain what could happen that the pedal doesn't stay in down position?
One more thing. To attach the front drive one have to move the shifter (number 1 on the photo) down. But I don't exactly know what this pedal (number 2 on the picture) is for. Can anyone explain that to me?
Thanks.
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#2 is your differential lock. you sometimes have to be moving for the pedal to align cogs. It should automatically come up when taking your foot off. However, it will sometimes stay engaged until binding of gears is relaxed. Differential lock and 4 wheel drive are two separate components.
