Drip Irrigation System

[MarkV]

We are in a heck of a drought here in Georgia so I am putting a drip irrigation system in for my vegetable garden. The components of the system are from www.rainbird.com and include two control valves, filters, fittings and 700’ of ½” drip line with built in emitters every 18”. Each of my 14 crop rows will have a drip line that runs its 40+’ from a manifold. Each line will be able to disconnect from the manifold to roll up in the winter so the garden may be worked with the tractor.

These systems are normally permanently installed with an electric solenoid that controls the valve from a control panel and pipe left in the planting bed. Because I plan to remove mine each winter the manifold, normally buried and the drip line covered in mulch, will be exposed during watering season. This is where I could use some suggestions.

There will be two ¾” manifolds of 20’ each with 7 drip lines exiting each manifold. Presently I am thinking that with four 10’ pieces of PVC, the valve attached to the end of two and threaded ends on two, can join together and I have my two 20’ manifolds with seven “T’s” in each for the drip lines. From the “T’s” I am thinking that with the proper fittings I can use the quick connects sold for garden hoses so an individual run can be disconnected when not needed.

One concern is that the manifold will be exposed and PVC gets brittle when in the sun. Will painting the PVC help against UV rays and if so any special paint or tricks? Should I think copper or another material besides PVC? Any better ways besides hose quick connects to isolate each run?

I’d sure welcome any suggestions from all the creative people here on TBN.



MarkV

 

[randy41]

most irrigation systems use layflat tubing...not pvc. pvc is ususally used for higher pressure applications. using layflat you dont need t's....you just punch a hole where you need it and use barbed fittings.

 

[Toiyabe]

I have a fairly large dripper system, but don't use PVC. My trunk lines (I think what what you call manifolds) are black 1/2" or 3/4" polyethelene, which you can get at home depot or probably also from rainbird. You can get all sorts of barb fittings for them (although above 40 psi you may need hose clamps).

It's flexible, tougher than PVC, and you don't have to use glue. I've had it in the Nevada sun for 5 years, and it's still OK.

 

[Toiyabe]

Instead of quick connects, just use a 1/2" barbed valve. Close the valve, and pull the dripper line. Or just get a set of barb unions and barb tees, and replace the tee with a union when you want to remove a dripper line.

Drip irrigation is like legos, not like plumbing.

 

[OldMcDonald]

I installed drip irrigation to 289 newly planted olive trees on a shade over two and a half acres a couple of years ago. The lines are PVC and the whole set up sounds similar to your description (actual names of components differ around the world) but I also have a pressure regulator because my pump is a 10hp 3 phase electric into a 3" main and it would blow the narrow tubes (28 runs of about 80 yards each) if the pressure was not reduced. I also remove them for the winter so they are in postion from about now until late September. Sorry I cannot answer your other questions, but the tubing is so cheap and easily jointed for repairs that I do not worry about the sun making them brittle. Virtually all the cost was in the undergrounding of the main pipes. The filters (essential in a drip system) and pressure regulator added a bit but despite not having the cost to hand, I can say were not particularly expensive. Old McDonald.

 

[Toiyabe]

OldMcDonald,

Are you sure you are using PVC (white plastic, rigid, glue-on slip fittings)? I've never seen or heard of that done before.

 

[Arkaybee]

Take a look at irrigation-mart in Ruston, La. These guys are pros and supply large and small operations. They are very knowledgeable, experienced, and helpful. See their on line catalog for all the components to do the job right and call them if you need help in putting the system together (1-800-SAY RAIN). They have been helpful to me in the past.

 

[rox]

I installed drip irrigation to 289 newly planted olive trees on a shade over two and a half acres a couple of years ago. The lines are PVC and the whole set up sounds similar to your description (actual names of components differ around the world) but I also have a pressure regulator because my pump is a 10hp 3 phase electric into a 3" main and it would blow the narrow tubes (28 runs of about 80 yards each) if the pressure was not reduced. I also remove them for the winter so they are in postion from about now until late September. Sorry I cannot answer your other questions, but the tubing is so cheap and easily jointed for repairs that I do not worry about the sun making them brittle. Virtually all the cost was in the undergrounding of the main pipes. The filters (essential in a drip system) and pressure regulator added a bit but despite not having the cost to hand, I can say were not particularly expensive. Old McDonald.

OldMcDonald,
Are you getting olive oil yet? How old are your trees? What varietal of olive trees did you plant?

 

[rox]

MarkV,
Oops, sorry I got excited about OldMcDonald having olive trees and I realize I jsut posted kind of a hijck of your thread, sorry.

We have 12 acres and our irrigation lines go up steep terraces. I would second what OldMcDonal posted. The filter and pressure regulator are the most important components. We do have PVC main lines and also some huge thick heavy must be 4" black flexible I think it must be polyethalyne, for the main lines. We ahve sevral pressure regulator valves around the property. For the almond trees we have a in line shut off valve as we shut those irrigation lines down in the summer but keep watering the olive trees.

You also want to notice if you have any slope or low spots. In some rows we stop the hose lines a few trees back from the end of the row as the water flows down hill and those trees would get to much water. Be observant of the slope and be careful an down hill land doesn't get to much water.

 

[LoneCowboy]

15 years doing irrigation work (repairs, installs, etc)
DRIP IS A PAIN
It's like a model train set, you always have to mess with it.
and the only way you can tell ti's not working is when the plant dies.

Nonetheless
instead of using barbs, they make emitter pipe. (the pipe has measured holes in it every so often, like the old fashioned soaker hose)
attach that, much simpler, easier and just roll it up when done.
no emitters, spaghetti tubing, etc