No matter whether they are cheap or expensive, learn how to sharpen them. "offhand sharpening" is a practiced art that is easy to learn but takes some time. Invest in a drill sharpening gage for checking the angle or you can buy a "Darex" drill doctor but the non-comercial models only go up to 3/4". An important thing to remember is to "relieve the web" on drills over 1/4". relieving the web allows the bit to penetrate the material easier with less heat and less strain on the dill press or motor. Less heat means longer life and if you buy a "cheap" set they will last longer and if you learn how to sharpen them, even a cheap set will last along time. Titanimum, TiN, Titanimum Nitride, Steam Oxide, etc., are just coatings applied to the H.S.S. bits for easier chip flow and less friction. M2 is a designation that represents a european standard for High Speed Steel. The only bits other than HSS that will be available to you are Micrograin Tungsten Carbide or "Hi-roc". They are extremely hard and will drill armor plate and hardened steel up to rc58. They don't come from Lowes, but from a machinery supply house like MSC. I could go on for pages about cutting tools as I own my own machine shop, but the above will give you some idea. If any of you people have any questions, send me a private message and I'll try to answer your questions. I saw a couple of posts about drill sharpeners. Darex Drill Doctors are the best non commercial shapeners as they also relieve the web and they are a "no Brainer" to use. NEVER SHARPEN A DRILL ON THE SIDE OF A GRINDING WHEEL ONLY ON THE FACE. Side grinding is very dangerous as the wheel can shatter from a side load. Vitrified wheels have very little resistance to side loading.
