DR Power Grade Hydraulic Retrofit

[svlsmokey]

I have the older style DR Power Grade - 60" model. The actuator and remote system quit so I ordered the corded retrofit. That didn't work very well - it couldn't lift the grader back up with the concrete block in it. So I'm thinking of replacing the actuator with a small hydraulic cylinder. I've measured it all out and found a cylinder which will fit. Its rated for 1500 lbs max working pressure. My only question now deals with hydraulic psi coming out of the tractor. Will the pressure be too high and damage the cylinder? I have not found specs on the tractor yet (2015 Branson 3520h) - only that it runs 9 gal/min.

Open to your ideas. Thanks.

 

[eth555]

I don't know the answer but interested in this project, put up some pictures when you are done! Thanks!

 

[prichard]

Don't know specs on your tractor but every discussion I remember on here talked about 2-3000 psi on tractors.

 

[svlsmokey]

My sources are saying a rating of 2500-3000 psi or higher will be safe. I found this cylinder which is only 1/2" longer than the original ram and will require 5/8" bolts or pins rather than the original 1/2" pins. I checked the lengths with a piece of wood (holes drilled at 0", 11" and 25") and the function of the grader should be the same as original.

1.5x4x1 DA Hydraulic Cylinder Pinhole | Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[tomplum]

I'll be watching this thread. I had a customer give me his old one, but haven't thought through what will become of it.

 

[svlsmokey]

The hydraulic cylinder arrived on Monday. Today I drilled out the holes in the actuator bracket and control arm to accommodate the 5/8 in bolts that will be needed for the new cylinder. I picked up a short section of threaded rod and a handful of nuts and washers. Seemed like the cheapest way to mount the cylinder.

The DR Grader is pretty lightweight and I noticed the actuator mount was starting to sag toward the inside. So I took it off to make sure it was clean between the side rail and the actuator mount. I bolted that back on and then added a brace from the inside of the actuator pin hole down to the rear spreading blade. That stiffened the actuator mount considerably. I used a piece of half inch metal electrical conduit for the brace. It matched the lightweight construction of the greater and I was able to easily crimp the ends flat. They do require an odd angle.

I will see if I can add some pictures.

 

[svlsmokey]

 

[tomplum]

That's pretty slick. Let us know how it worked out.

 

[tomplum]

Have you played with this any further? I pulled the actuator off mine today and am in chin scratching mode....

 

[svlsmokey]

The last two fittings I ordered from Supply Center are still on back order - might be in next month. I could get the fittings locally but they'd be a lot more expensive. We're frozen out there now so I'm not in a big hurry - but when things thaw out I hope to have it up and running.

 

[tomplum]

I was amazed at how well it groomed the gravel turn around. Mine is just the 4' version. For giggles I used an hunk of electrical strut for some adjustablity in place of the actuator and gave it a go. It could be worth bracketing up something for the three point I suppose for ease of maneuvering. Right now I just have a standard blade.

 

[svlsmokey]

The fittings finally arrived today. Tomorrow I'll install them and post the final results!

 

[svlsmokey]

The fittings arrived yesterday and I installed them this morning. It works! The rate of travel is MUCH faster than before - it almost jumps off the ground it moves so quickly. I suppose you could put some kind of flow control on it but I find its easy enough to push the lever down part way to slow down the flow of fluid to the cylinder. I'll try it on the road in the spring and let y'all know how it works.

 

[tomplum]

Tada! Thanks for the update.

 

[svlsmokey]

Total cost was about $165. The electric actuator from DR (PN 38478) is $150 + about $20 S&H.