Do you use a cutting area for Bucked logs?

[MossflowerWoods]

First of all, I'm new to running a chainsaw, i've only run 3 or 4 tanks of gas total, and all but 1 were on my Stihl 20" MS290 FarmBoss I bought in May.

I need to process my fire wood more efficiently. I hate cutting the rounds on the ground, or in a jumble of logs. I am also terrible at cutting when the log gets short, down to the last cut on a big round, or the last couple cuts on asmaller round

Does anyone use any kind of a platform to cut from?

Some guys say they use their bucket or grapple on the tractor, but you should not leave that in the air with the engine turned off, so that made no sense to me.

I could easily make some sort of cradle out of less desirable wood, but is that the right way?

I am clearing the area first, so I will stack up a big pile of bucked logs and I will cut them later when I'm done clearing (if you have any advice on that topic als, thanks).

So what is the secret to efficiently cutting bucked logs into rounds?

Thanks in advance!
David

 

[kco]

I mostly cut to firewood lengths in the bush and haul them to the shed with the tractor bucket and sometimes a carryall.

The steel log jack from Princess Auto is great for handling fairly large logs.

http://www.princessauto.com/all-seasons/outdoor/logging/tools/8217283-steel-log-jack


I use as much of the tree as I can. When I get to the small end and can lift it I use a Smart Holder. It is much safer than holding small logs with a foot. I got mine at Lee Valley but I think Stihl also sells them. Here is a link showing the Smart Holder:

Bailey's - Smart-Holder Firewood Holder

There are also youtube videos of it.

Another handy tool is a paint spray can holder for marking the logs.

Although I have an electric splitter I mainly use the Fiskars Splitting Axe (not a regular axe) for splitting. They are quicker and much more effective than a maul.

I cut mainly fir, birch and pine and the trees here are mainly under 12" in diameter. At times I need to handle and cut the trees with loader chain hooks until they are a size where I can handle them with the log jack and Smart Holder.

Cheers

 

[tommu56]

I scrape them up on my loader and raise them up to waist high and cut if one end gets light I go the other end.

It would be nice to have a grapple to grab log but that just isn't in the cards now.

BTW I bring them as long as I can handle them to my splitter with my hoe dragging them or on the bucket then buck them split and stack as I split.

tom

 

[Boondox]

I heat with wood, and generally go thru 5-7 cord per year between the house and my shop. I have a Husky 357XP with a 20" bar for falling and for cutting logs into stove length rounds. And a baby Husky for limbing and cutting up smaller stuff. I use the scabbard from the 357 to measure (from the open end to the H is 18", which is the length I need), and a red lumber crayon to mark where to cut. I start measuring from the big end, so if there is any waste it will be at the smaller end. And when I cut a downed tree into more manageable lengths for transport I measure and mark in multiples of stove length, again to minimize waste.

If the log is on the ground I cut 2/3 of the way thru on my marks, then use a Peavey to roll the log over and finish the cuts. This involves a lot of bending and as I age that becomes more uncomfortable. So these days I use the excavator to pick the logs up between the bucket and thumb, holding them at waist height so I don't have to bend over. As a bonus, if I wait a couple of weeks after dropping a maple, using a snatch and twist motion with the boom I can break the bark free of the log, greatly speeding up the drying process.

Safety Note: when using the excavator (or backhoe if that's what you have), always rotate the bucket so the log is resting on top, held in place by the teeth if you lose hydraulics, and always cut from the side opposite where the log will drop if the machinery loses its grip.

Another thing the excavator with hydraulic thumb helps with is lifting those HUGE rounds onto the splitter. You know the type -- those three foot diameter chunks of oak or rock maple that weigh three times more than you do?

 

[PapaPerk]

All my logs sit on a pair of large fence posts. This keeps them off the ground. The fence posts are perpendicular to the logs...

When cutting them... I usually have two logs that are on the posts. Then the log that I'm cutting sits on top of the two bottom logs. This forms a cradle that supports the log that I'm cutting. Works real well. Plus I can cut the logs consistently because the bottom log has cut marks on it! :thumbsup:

Have fun with your new saw. You bought a nice one! :drink:

 

[Scooby074]

Another handy tool is a paint spray can holder for marking the logs.


Cheers

Are you talking about the Mingo Marker?

Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker

Do you have one? How does it work? I was wonderin about that product. I have a heck of a time getting consistent length cuts.

 

[MarkV]

Hey David a couple of comments. First if I were you and cutting full length logs I would be holding them up with that new grapple of yours to cut rounds. If your concerned about hydraulic failure let the tractor idle. You will be changing logs frequently anyway.

Now at the risk of being flamed as the safety police, have you looked into chainsaw safety chaps? You mention being new to saws and they sure can bite you when you least expect it. A search on the forum will share some pretty scary stories of how fast bad things can happen. If your interested in reading about them check out Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's They have some good information.

MarkV

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Hey David a couple of comments. First if I were you and cutting full length logs I would be holding them up with that new grapple of yours to cut rounds. If your concerned about hydraulic failure let the tractor idle. You will be changing logs frequently anyway.

Now at the risk of being flamed as the safety police, have you looked into chainsaw safety chaps? You mention being new to saws and they sure can bite you when you least expect it. A search on the forum will share some pretty scary stories of how fast bad things can happen. If your interested in reading about them check out Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's They have some good information.

MarkV

MarkV,

I won't flame ya!

I'm going to say that as I was reading the first response from kco, the Bailey's pictures al showed a guy with nice looking orange chaps on and I was thinking "Hey! Those would keep my pants cleaner" because after a tank of gas on my new Stihl, I've cut moire than I can fit in my pickup truck and I am FILTHY.

I did not know they existed, so I will check them out. BUt are they really god enough to save you from a saw? I am scared of that saw, and very careful EVERY time I run it. At a minimum I know I'm a total noob, and now I need to stay alive to make the tractor payments too!

So, yes I will look into them. I am also LOVING the advice from TBN (again). I LOVE this place! This is University of Tractorology and Ruralization here...



David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

The steel log jack from Princess Auto is great for handling fairly large logs.

http://www.princessauto.com/all-seasons/outdoor/logging/tools/8217283-steel-log-jack

I use as much of the tree as I can. When I get to the small end and can lift it I use a Smart Holder. It is much safer than holding small logs with a foot. I got mine at Lee Valley but I think Stihl also sells them. Here is a link showing the Smart Holder:

Bailey's - Smart-Holder Firewood Holder

Another handy tool is a paint spray can holder for marking the logs.

Although I have an electric splitter I mainly use the Fiskars Splitting Axe (not a regular axe) for splitting. They are quicker and much more effective than a maul.

At times I need to handle and cut the trees with loader chain hooks until they are a size where I can handle them with the log jack and Smart Holder.

Cheers

KCO,

Sir awesome links & Fabulous info! I need to find those products locally here in Virginia...

THANK YOU!
David

 

[ToadHill]

When I process my firewood, I drag the first log out and lay it lengthwise in my cutting area. The rest of the logs I drag out and lay them perpendicular to the first log and use the bucket to lift the end of each log over the first forming a kind of lean too.

I then cut off the part of the log overhanging the first log and when that is done I use the bucket to push the log further up to cut off more. When the log gets short I use the bucket as a counterweight.

Keeps the saw out of the dirt and is a lot easier on my old back. I'm getting a little long in the tooth to be bending over to cut my logs.

 

[studor]

I bring four foot lengths from the bush with the tractor and I have used a sawbuck to block for years (see link). If you look on here you will find photos of a jig that one of the members made for cutting smaller branches.
Yes the chaps will stop a chainsaw -- thats what they are for and I hope to never have to find out again
The swedish log holder is nice but expensive for frugal me

How to Build a Sawbuck for Cutting Firewood - wikiHow
For marking I have a couple of paint sticks and a tape measure -- never could get used to alll those fancy gadgets

 

[PapaPerk]

MarkV,

I won't flame ya!

I'm going to say that as I was reading the first response from kco, the Bailey's pictures al showed a guy with nice looking orange chaps on and I was thinking "Hey! Those would keep my pants cleaner" because after a tank of gas on my new Stihl, I've cut moire than I can fit in my pickup truck and I am FILTHY.

I did not know they existed, so I will check them out. BUt are they really god enough to save you from a saw? I am scared of that saw, and very careful EVERY time I run it. At a minimum I know I'm a total noob, and now I need to stay alive to make the tractor payments too!

So, yes I will look into them. I am also LOVING the advice from TBN (again). I LOVE this place! This is University of Tractorology and Ruralization here...



David

Don't be scared of the saw.... respect it. If you are scared you will get hurt.

Yes the chaps will stop the saw chain. They have kevlar fibers (i think) in them that clog the chain teeth.

 

[PapaPerk]

I bring four foot lengths from the bush with the tractor and I have used a sawbuck to block for years (see link). If you look on here you will find photos of a jig that one of the members made for cutting smaller branches.
Yes the chaps will stop a chainsaw -- thats what they are for and I hope to never have to find out again
The swedish log holder is nice but expensive for frugal me

How to Build a Sawbuck for Cutting Firewood - wikiHow
For marking I have a couple of paint sticks and a tape measure -- never could get used to alll those fancy gadgets

I here ya on the gadgets. I use a stick cut to 18" to mark my logs. Doesn't get much easier than that! Or cheap!

 

[cmyoung2]

I have to do things the hard way, no tractor, so it is cut 2/3 through or until it starts to pinch, cut however many lenghts I can roll with a canthook. I start with the little stuff, get the limbs out of the way and work to the stump.Seems to be less limbs kicking back that way. I use a husky 20" and just filed a line on the bar to measure, cheap and always there. Use the chaps!! they may be a little warm, but they do work. I like the ones that wrap around the calf, but the straight ones do ok. I also use a helment with face screen and ears. It has saved a headache several times, and I can still hear at the end of the day,

 

[kco]

Are you talking about the Mingo Marker?

Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker

Do you have one? How does it work? I was wonderin about that product. I have a heck of a time getting consistent length cuts.

Mine is a simpler holder that I bought at the local Home Hardware. Here is the link:

Home Hardware - MARKER, WAND HAND HELD SPOTTER 12"

I think they are about $30 in Canada.

I have a 32" piece of broom stick with a mark in the middle that I use to mark off 16" lengths with a quick squirt of the gun. The gun takes the standard contractor's upside down spray cans.

I also carry a lumber crayon and plastic holder in my toolbox in case I forget the spray can. But the crayon does not work well if the bark is damp.

 

[kco]

Don't be scared of the saw.... respect it. If you are scared you will get hurt.

Yes the chaps will stop the saw chain. They have kevlar fibers (i think) in them that clog the chain teeth.

Great advice, and don't lose concentration when you've finished a cut. The chain is still moving and it is no time to carelessly let the bar hang or turn with it.

Another tip is to run the chain speed up before it contacts the wood when starting a cut so it does not grab.

 

[kco]

MarkV,

I won't flame ya!

I'm going to say that as I was reading the first response from kco, the Bailey's pictures al showed a guy with nice looking orange chaps on and I was thinking "Hey! Those would keep my pants cleaner" because after a tank of gas on my new Stihl, I've cut moire than I can fit in my pickup truck and I am FILTHY.

I did not know they existed, so I will check them out. BUt are they really god enough to save you from a saw? I am scared of that saw, and very careful EVERY time I run it. At a minimum I know I'm a total noob, and now I need to stay alive to make the tractor payments too!

So, yes I will look into them. I am also LOVING the advice from TBN (again). I LOVE this place! This is University of Tractorology and Ruralization here...



David

I know what you mean by getting filthy. The bark seems to have lots of junk that is attracted to canvas or cotton pants. But it's great CLEAN dirt.

I don't want to stir controversy but, I have a set of kevlar pants and don't use them because they are hot and a bit cumbersome. I use them for a powerful brush saw that hurts like crazy if the blade hits the ground and sprays back rocks.

One good solution I have found are pants similar to these at Mark's Workwearhouse:

Mark's Work Wearhouse :: Clothes that don't compromise on performance or fashion.

But the ones I got (they aren't on the web catalogue) are the same as those shown but the extra front layer from the hip down is cordura, the same material used for backpacks. It's tough and the dirt seems to role off. At about $80 they are pricey though.

Another good option for cooler weather is overalls. Also good for keeping warm in the winter as they block the cold air from coming up your jacket.

 

[ayelvington]

I use either some small rollers or a log jack to keep the log off of the ground.

Winter cutting is easier since a thick layer of snow makes it easier to keep your bar out of the dirt.

Chaps are a mush-have. I was generally annoyed by mine until I snagged them one day and thought "That would have left a mark!"

Enjoy your time in the woods!

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Don't be scared of the saw.... respect it. If you are scared you will get hurt.

Yes the chaps will stop the saw chain. They have kevlar fibers (i think) in them that clog the chain teeth.

PapaPerk,

I'm not really scared. Well I was the first time...

I totally respect the saw and its lethality. I also respect how it goes through wood like a hot knife through butter...

I'm going to go get the chainsaw chaps. I wear eye pro and earplugs also.
Thanks,
David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

I know what you mean by getting filthy. The bark seems to have lots of junk that is attracted to canvas or cotton pants. But it's great CLEAN dirt.

KCO,

AMEN to that one Brother!

I've been a computer geek for almost 30 years and I LOVE getting outside and doing honest work. I don't mind the honest dirt either!

But the wife won't let me in the house!

Actually the dirtiest work so far has been my big Stihl solid shaft trimmer... OH MY GOODNESS when I really hit the heavy stuff I end up green as the "Hulk" or "Swamp Thing"...

Be well,
David