Renze
Super Member
john_bud said:
easily spending $$ isnt the idea of building a tractor, if it was he'd buy a brand new one at a dealer, thats easiest and most $$
DIY Home built compact tractor
- Thread starter GT2
- Start date
- Views: 956403
easily spending $$ isnt the idea of building a tractor, if it was he'd buy a brand new one at a dealer, thats easiest and most $$
dbdartman
Platinum Member
GT2, I've been meaning to post this, but... Anyway, I was on my JD4400 last week & checked the steering. It goes 3.75 turns lock to lock.
bx23barry
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2006
- Messages
- 500
- Tractor
- Kubota BX23
GT2 said:Believe me I racked my brain trying to figure how to do that.
I would have had to design a complicated set of shafts and universal joints to get over/around the engine and in the end all that stuff would have been in the way anytime I wanted to work on the engine.
Thats my story and I'm stickin to it!
Good story! I'll buy it.
I got my CV flange to universal joint flange adapters made today, their held in by two temporary bolts till I get the proper fastners.
Top and bottom view ( the shiney disks)
Bottom view of the front and rear drive lines
Top and bottom view ( the shiney disks)
Bottom view of the front and rear drive lines
Defective
Platinum Member
Looks to be getting close to test drive time...
ben2go
Gold Member
Any updates on this.Looking forward to seeing this completed.
s1120
Veteran Member
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- Columbia county NY
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- 87 Ingersoll 444, 84 Ingersoll224/'44 GreavlyL/60'sGreavlyL/49 Ford 8N
Just cought this post. AWSOME job!!!!!!!!!!
Wombat125
Gold Member
I've worked on several Samurai based rock crawlers so this has definitely been an interesting read for me. Your metal work looks really nice.
I am a little concerned about the durability of the axles for this application though. The factory Sami 1.3L carb motor put out about 66 hp and 76 ft-lbs of torque. The axles have 3.73 gears in them. The front axles have itty bitty little birfield joints in them that are just a little larger than a baseball. With diff lockers, you can safely run about 31" tires, but still shouldn't get after it with the front wheels turned hard left or right.
Now you are talking about running a motor with more torque and tires with more traction.
The cheapest, most expedient solution for front axle strength is birfield rings. They are relatively cheap alloy rings that press fit over the birfield joints to keep them from exploding. Unfortunately, you have to remove the steering knuckles to install them. The factory birfields fit through the knuckles; with birf rings they don't. You can also get complete alloy chrome moly shafts, but they are really hard on the wallet.
I think that possibly the best solution might be to consider finding a set of '79-85 Toyota Pickup or 4Runner axles. They have the strength of a Dana 44 or better, come with factory 4:10 gears, and still have the removable 3rd member.
I'm also a little concerned about the steep compound angle of your front driveshaft. Definitely a non-starter for a road vehicle, but maybe fine for 10 mph.
The best of luck and keep us updated.
I am a little concerned about the durability of the axles for this application though. The factory Sami 1.3L carb motor put out about 66 hp and 76 ft-lbs of torque. The axles have 3.73 gears in them. The front axles have itty bitty little birfield joints in them that are just a little larger than a baseball. With diff lockers, you can safely run about 31" tires, but still shouldn't get after it with the front wheels turned hard left or right.
Now you are talking about running a motor with more torque and tires with more traction.
The cheapest, most expedient solution for front axle strength is birfield rings. They are relatively cheap alloy rings that press fit over the birfield joints to keep them from exploding. Unfortunately, you have to remove the steering knuckles to install them. The factory birfields fit through the knuckles; with birf rings they don't. You can also get complete alloy chrome moly shafts, but they are really hard on the wallet.
I think that possibly the best solution might be to consider finding a set of '79-85 Toyota Pickup or 4Runner axles. They have the strength of a Dana 44 or better, come with factory 4:10 gears, and still have the removable 3rd member.
I'm also a little concerned about the steep compound angle of your front driveshaft. Definitely a non-starter for a road vehicle, but maybe fine for 10 mph.
The best of luck and keep us updated.
GCLnIndiana
Bronze Member
Great thread. Can't wait to see more progress.
kenmac
Super Member
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very interesting. Where do you find the time?? Can't wait to see this thing in action
Its hard to find the time lately, I've got a lot of irons on the fire.kenmac said:
I'm presently working on the diesel engine, trying to get it running. I want to do a test drive befor any further fab work, to make sure the ratios and ground speed are going to be acceptable.
Tim
RobJ
Elite Member
Cool!
GCLnIndiana
Bronze Member
How did the test drive work out?
2kpsd
Silver Member
Just found this post - amazing talent you have!! Any more updates and more pictures???
GCLnIndiana
Bronze Member
I "second" the request for an overall shot.
roadrunnertech
New member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2008
- Messages
- 8
Great thread, I also joined because of this. I've been kicking around the idea of building a compact/garden tractor, not quite as ambitious as this but 2wd and around 10 hp.
I used to compete in the tractor pulls with my 4-H club as a kid, with a Garden Master tractor. They had used cut down car parts and a 9hp Briggs to build a small tractor. Managed to pull 5400 lbs with it once. Figured copying it a bit and a more modern engine (the one I used to use was a hand crank, which my dad converted to a loose rope pull start) and newer drivetrain would be a pretty useful machine.
Can't wait to see this one going, are there any more threads on home built tractors?
Thanks,
James
I used to compete in the tractor pulls with my 4-H club as a kid, with a Garden Master tractor. They had used cut down car parts and a 9hp Briggs to build a small tractor. Managed to pull 5400 lbs with it once. Figured copying it a bit and a more modern engine (the one I used to use was a hand crank, which my dad converted to a loose rope pull start) and newer drivetrain would be a pretty useful machine.
Can't wait to see this one going, are there any more threads on home built tractors?
Thanks,
James
WilliamBos
Super Member
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- May 1, 2004
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- Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
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Excellent thread. Keep us posted. Can't wait to hear it run.
While you have it apart, I would change the timing belt, real cheap insurance.
What is next, a bio diesel set up??
Will
Renze
Super Member
With Volkswagen Diesel engines, there is also the small belt on the other end of the crankshaft that drives the fuel pump... I think it has twice the rated life of the main belt (probably because its less risky if it breaks)
But for the secondary belt, a visual inspection (check for rags) should be safe enough.
