I have some dirt that needs to be moved on my property. My question is has any one used these scoops? What are your impressions? Can the dirt be dumped without getting off the tractor? I have a grader blade but it is not much use for moving fill dirt from one area to another. Thanks Joe
Dirt scoop?
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blackd
Platinum Member
I have a 30" scoop & it works especially well for moving smaller amounts of dirt, and even some digging. You can use it without getting out of the seat by tying a rope to the release. Sometimes you need to adjust the sping or the latch mechanism so that the rope will easily open it. Closing is simple. Just drop the3PT and scoop while moving and the scoop closes and latches then lift it back up
rockyridgefarm
Elite Member
The're pretty cool for doing wheelies, too1 Be sure you have lots of front ballast. I did tear up the tranny housing on my 186D with mine. Trying to fill the scoop real full, i rammed it too hard, and pop went the castings. I was definately abusing it, no problems if you take yer time...
normde2001
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This is a YM2000B with a 24" scoop. I moved almost 9 yds. of chert to install a 20' x 1' pvc culvert in a 3' x 6' x 16' ditch. It took a while, but got the job done. I think it will hold about 1/2 a 55 gal. drum load. I hooked a small pulley to my rope to get a better angle to dump, which it will do if you can keep the trash out of the pivot points.
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normde2001
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A 30 " is too big for your 1500. It definitely will cause the lower lift arms to hit the tires even with reversed pins unless you get modified lower arms and it may not lift high enough to dump. My tractor dealer and "scoop" dealer both recommended the 24" for my tractor, but I believe I could have used the 30". I estimate this is about 400 lb. of rocks and about 150 lb. for the scoop. It rides pretty good with 200 lb. weights on the front.
normde2001
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OOPS! here it is, hopefully.
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WellsF15
New member
I have an F15 and use a 30" scoop. I made two brackets from 3" angle by welding them together to make a box. Then I bolted them in place on the inside of the frame where the pins were. I then put the pins on the inside of the brackets. It allowed me to use the 30" scoop without the arms hitting the tires. Basically, you are reducing the space between the hookup pins by 6". Works great. I moved quite a bit of dirt this summer. You do have to have weight on the front end unless you like operating on two wheels. Sorry I don't have my digital camera right now or I would post pics.
Steve
Steve
Soundguy
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My ym1700 handled a 30" scoop well, with new lower lift arms ( generic ford style from tractor supply )and about 180lbs of the front. bumper
Soundguy
Soundguy
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The reason I changed my lower lift arms, is because someone had cut and rewelded them shorter some time in the past. The ends did not even make it out to the edges of the tires.
As for size, as long as you have the cat1 pins mounted on the the tractor, everything should just pin right up. Mine changed over in about 2 minutes. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove/instal the cotter pins for the link arms from the the upper lift arms to the lower lift arms.
The ones from TSC are for the ford 8N, and are about 3' long, give or take... ( may actually be closer to 33" ) They are about 35 bucks a piece, and are bright -burn your eyes- red.
I love mine... perfect size on the 1700.... gives you good tire clearance.. even on the big cleat tires.
One think though... make some chain limiters to hook up everything and keep it from swinging. On my 1700, there were looks under the axles for this. A chain from there to the end of the link pin at impliment hookup, and anohter on the other side, if using a pto device. If no pto, I use an x pattern, chain from the right axle loop to the the union of the link arm and the left lower lift arm, and etc on the left axle loop to the union of the link arm and right lower lift arm.
Keeps the arms out of the tires.... and you want to do that, becaus ethe tractor is way strong enough to bend your link arms... I bent one of mine on my first day with my box blade.
Then I got the limiter chains...
Soundguy
As for size, as long as you have the cat1 pins mounted on the the tractor, everything should just pin right up. Mine changed over in about 2 minutes. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove/instal the cotter pins for the link arms from the the upper lift arms to the lower lift arms.
The ones from TSC are for the ford 8N, and are about 3' long, give or take... ( may actually be closer to 33" ) They are about 35 bucks a piece, and are bright -burn your eyes- red.
I love mine... perfect size on the 1700.... gives you good tire clearance.. even on the big cleat tires.
One think though... make some chain limiters to hook up everything and keep it from swinging. On my 1700, there were looks under the axles for this. A chain from there to the end of the link pin at impliment hookup, and anohter on the other side, if using a pto device. If no pto, I use an x pattern, chain from the right axle loop to the the union of the link arm and the left lower lift arm, and etc on the left axle loop to the union of the link arm and right lower lift arm.
Keeps the arms out of the tires.... and you want to do that, becaus ethe tractor is way strong enough to bend your link arms... I bent one of mine on my first day with my box blade.
Then I got the limiter chains...
Soundguy
Trev
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I've had pretty good luck so far with my dirt scoop (Kingcutter 30") on my 4300.
There are two problems, if you can call them that.
1) There is no down-pressure on the 3pt hitch, so sometimes I want to dig and the scoop just floats over the ground. Then it's time to get off, adjust the top link, try again, etc.
2) It doesn't lift very high. Trying to load a pickup with dirt, I could just barely clear the tailgate, which meant I couldn't dump. So back up to the truck, then shovel the dirt from the scoop into the truck.
It isn't a FEL, but it's a lot cheaper.. and for most jobs I've run into it's "close enough for gummint work." /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Bob
There are two problems, if you can call them that.
1) There is no down-pressure on the 3pt hitch, so sometimes I want to dig and the scoop just floats over the ground. Then it's time to get off, adjust the top link, try again, etc.
2) It doesn't lift very high. Trying to load a pickup with dirt, I could just barely clear the tailgate, which meant I couldn't dump. So back up to the truck, then shovel the dirt from the scoop into the truck.
It isn't a FEL, but it's a lot cheaper.. and for most jobs I've run into it's "close enough for gummint work." /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Bob
