Did I put the wrong engine oil in? Please help a newbie

[Ken P]

Folks - I'm changing the oil on my kubota B2410 for the first time, and only after I added half the new oil did I notice that on the front of the oil bottle it says "For Gasoline Engines".

I used Carquest brand (it's a house brand) synthetic, 10w30. Being a newbie and obviously not terribly swift, I'd looked in the manual, saw 10W30 recommended, and just bought the same stuff I use for my car, lawnmower, etc.

Are there different 10w30's for diesel? I've looked in my manual again and see that besides the 10W-30, it mentions "API Service Classification CD, CE or CF" The oil I used, on the bottle says "Meets or Exceeds API SM/SL And all Preceeding API Gasoline categories"

So, what do I do? Should I drain the oil again, and if so, should I also replace the filter (which I also just put on)? How different are those other API grades? I still have to add another 1.2 quarts - should I just get one of the other API grades and add it into the oil that I've already put in?

Many thanks -

Ken

 

[Gods Country]

You have the wrong oil.
Drain it and change the filter to be safe.

Gas engines use oil rated for a Spark ignition.
Diesel enfines use oil rated for a Compression ignition.
Synthetics are usually rated for both.

I don't think you should have anything to fear once you use the correct oil.

 

[RalphVa]

I use a marginal diesel-rated oil in Mobil 1 0w30. I just change it once/year, which is usually short of 100 hours and well short of the 200 hours recommended.

If you're going to a synthetic, I'd get one with a broader vis range. 10w30 isn't much for a synthetic. You should be able to find fully diesel rated ones that are 5w40. I wouldn't used anything that has higher than a "5" in that first rating. Otherwise, why use a synthetic?

Ralph

 

[Wolfy]

Yep you sure want to drain it and change the filter. Sucks but best for the engine. There is a 10W30 diesel rated oil available, but it is hard to find. Really no reason not to use 15W40 which has been the diesel standard for decades.

 

[jonyyuma]

Actually if you don't damage the seal on the filter, why chunk it? Drain it, let it set inverted for a hour or so and reinstall it.Check it while running for a leak as you would always do with a new filter. There is not that much contamination, have you even started the engine? It is not like you poured water into the crankcase?Use diesel certiified motor oil only..

 

[Ken P]

Jonyyuma - No, I haven't started the engine. I didn't even finish filling up the crankcase - it's supposed to take 3.2 quarts, and I had only put in 2 when I had that "Oh, shoot" moment. So you think I could reuse the filter? Or is it not worth trying to save the $10 or so it cost?

I went back to the auto store and got 4 quarts of synthetic 15W-40, Amsoil brand. $10/qt - ouch. They had a nonsynthetic for $4, but at this point I figured I might as well go for the premium stuff.

I'm planning to drain the 10w-30 in the morning, might try to do it cleanly and see if it looks to be worth putting it right back in the bottles.

Thanks for the help, folks.

Ken

 

[Wolfy]

Ken, I believe most tractors brands advise changing the oil every 100 hours. Using synthetic, it seems like you could go 200 hours.

 

[JohninCT]

Listing of API service classifications

http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE Engine Oil Service.pdf

 

[Argosy]

You didn't start the engine so the filter will still be empty. No sense in changing it.

 

[Chilly807]

You didn't start the engine so the filter will still be empty. No sense in changing it.

Exactly right. There's no reason you can't use the new drained oil in your other equipment either. Other than a time delay and having some extra oil on hand, no harm done.

The diesel rated oil is formulated to have a higher detergent level to better scrub soot from the engine components, among other things.

I use the Kubota 10W30, it's the same price as any other dino oil, and there's no question if it ever comes to a warranty issue.

Sean

 

[LBrown59]

Folks - I'm changing the oil on my kubota B2410 for the first time, and only after I added half the new oil did I notice that on the front of the oil bottle it says "For Gasoline Engines".

Yes, you put the wrong oil in your B2410.

 

[bigtiller]

After reading this post I sure hope I didn't screw up. I did the same thing last spring except I filled it up and ran it for a minute to fill the oil filter. After my "oops" moment I drained the oil out and put in the diesel oil. The filter sits horizontally so I didn't mess with it.

I hope everything works out okay for me. ??

 

[jake98]

Just an uneducated guess on my part, but I'd bet it would make no difference for one oil change.

 

[Cruisin]

"For Gasoline Engines". Means you put the wrong oil in your B2410.

Brownie, do you read the posts, or just want to throw something up there to rub someone the wrong way? He knew that yesterday and really didn't need your useless comment.

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like you now have 2 spare quarts of lawnmower or compressor oil.

unless you precharged the filter.. I'd re-use it.

soundguy

 

[LBrown59]

1*Brownie, do you read the posts, or just want to throw something up there to rub someone the wrong way?
2*He knew that yesterday and really didn't need your useless comment.

1*No.

 

[ModMech]

Ken,

Lots of good advice thus far and not you did not hurt anything, even if you decide to leave it in and just change it really early it will not "hurt" anything.

I would drop it and use it for make-up oil on a mower or other gas engine as others have suggested.

A note on viscosity....

The greater the difference between the two viscosity numbers the WORSE it is for the engine, generally and this does not really apply with fully-formulated synthetics like Amsoil, Mobil 1 etc.

Regardless of other factors, you should always use the viscosity specified by the engine manufacturer for the temperatures the equipment will be operated in. In many, but not all cases, this will be a single specification regardless of temperature (in the lower 48 any way) such as 5W-30. In extreme temperatures, other viscosities might be advised by the manufacturer such as 15W-40 for high temperature operation.

In years past, it was common to have multiple oil recomendations, but as oil technology has improved drastically over the past 20 years, this is less common now with most manufacturers centering on 5W-40 synthetic for year-round use in the colder climates and everywhere else 15W-40 conventional oil.

My recomendation is that if you are using a fully synthetic name-brand oil, use 5W-40 year-round and if anything else follow the manufacturer's directions exactly.

 

[bp fick]

Rotella 10w-30 Semi Synthetic or Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic available at every last WalMart I've ever been in. Just sayin'. The sheer availability and ease of finding it sells Shell a lot of diesel oil.

Diesel 10w-30 is not hard to find, if you can locate a Wally World store, I know they're hard to find sometimes, you're all set. :laughing:

$16 a gallon. Synthetic 5w-40 is $20 a gallon.

 

[Marveltone]

...if you can locate a Wally World store, I know they're hard to find sometimes, you're all set. :laughing:

Truer words than you realize. Until about three years ago, the closest Wally World was 135 miles from me. Now they've set up nice and close... 70 miles! :thumbsup:

Joe

 

[Ken P]

Thanks for all the help, folks. I drained out the oil, saved most of it. It was surprisingly dirty for just having been poured in and taken right back out. So maybe I can tell myself that I cleaned some crud out of the crankcase, it might not be a total screwup.

I unscrewed the filter, and it was completely empty and looked the same as when I'd put it on, so I did reuse it.

I'll keep an eye out for some diesel 10W-30 for the next oil change, but do I have it right that the amsoil synthetic 15W-40 is fine? I'd hate to have problems in the winter cold, I really need that big snowblower to work no matter how cold it gets.

Ken