Designing a LPGS

[jenkinsph]

If the rear of the device is lifted from either side, not both, it will try and twist the top link.

It is not that hard to calculate the force but you have to have more information.

Think about this. If you have something stuck and try to pull it with a chain connected to another "puller" then the tires spin on the "puller".

Say the chain is 50', if a person moves to the middle of the chain and steps on it with 100lbs of force. That action will pull both together as the force is multiplied by many times.

Think of it as a lever, if the chain is in tension 1ft off the ground and you move it to the ground by that foot (again in the middle) it will pull the two together by a very small amount with much more force than the 100lb applied.

Look at mowers that mount by a 3 pt, they pivot by the force the top link has if loaded at the rear.

Reading your reply I do agree with the scenario of stepping on the chain in the middle will result in a very large increase in tension between the chain ends. This would be more important to understand when chaining down equipment on a trailer. Not sure what cantonary forces (spelling?) has to do with this?

My point was and still is that the top link whether screw type or hydraulic cylinder is free to move side to side on swivels at each end. With that in mind there isn't enough resistance to matter. The developed length of the top link post is about 18 inches more or less so the lever length is rather short. This is well within reason for a 3 inch box beam or larger to handle.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just my :2cents: here, but there should no material purchased under 1/4" and how a person gets some weight is to build the LPGS with nothing less than
3/8" material. Use 1/2" where you would use 3/8", 5/8" instead of 1/2", you get the picture. Do you need to do this, no, but it will be better if you do. All this optional bracing that you see on some of the different LPGS is needed because they are building them from material that is to thin or simple using a poor design.

Just my opinion, take it for what it may be worth.

 

[Oliver1655]

I agree with Brian & Jenkins, use thick heavy metal & limit bracing going across the top of the skids which can interfere with the flow of material over the cutting blades. As previously mentioned, this is really true when working up ground with vegetation when wants to pile up rather than flow.

 

[aeblank]

Found some specific sizing info.

 

[jenkinsph]

Found some specific sizing info.



View attachment 386569

A light weight design that will work okay but nothing special about it.

 

[fordmantpw]

Found some specific sizing info.

I just bought the 5' model of that. Mine is actually a Dirt Dog, who makes it for Bush Hog. Going to try it out this weekend, so I will let you know how it works.

 

[aeblank]

It was a Woods, so I consider that a name brand, so the thicknesses hold some merit with me.
Would love to know how it works. My guess is *great*, based on everything I've read, seen, and talked to people about.

Just need to get mine made or free up the cash to get one; rain kills my over-traveled seasonal road. My fab guy hasn't gotten back to me with a quote yet (just don't have the time to do it myself...)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It was a Woods, (looks like a Bush Hog to me:confused3so I consider that a name brand, so the thicknesses hold some merit with me.
Would love to know how it works. My guess is *great*, based on everything I've read, seen, and talked to people about.

Just need to get mine made or free up the cash to get one; rain kills my over-traveled seasonal road. My fab guy hasn't gotten back to me with a quote yet (just don't have the time to do it myself...)

Actually if you look at the weights of the bigger names, Woods, Land Pride etc., their LPGS are actually on the lighter side. Don't get me wrong, as far as I can tell, they all work pretty good, just that the heavier units simply work better in a wider variety of conditions is all.

 

[jenkinsph]

Just depends on what you want, don't want to twist your arm. You asked for opinions and received them, hope the forum helped with the process. Buy what you want.:thumbsup:

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I've been following this as I intend to build one for myself soon. I see that some designs have angled blades and others have them mounted straight. Is there a specific reason or advantage of one vs the other? Or disadvantage for that matter?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've been following this as I intend to build one for myself soon. I see that some designs have angled blades and others have them mounted straight. Is there a specific reason or advantage of one vs the other? Or disadvantage for that matter?

Supposedly the angled blades transfer material side ways so as to help maintain a crown in a drive. While this is good in theory, the material moves such a small amount (less than 1" in my experience) that in reality it makes no difference.

The angled blades should cut wash boarding better than the straight blades. There are TBN members that say that their straight blades work just fine.

I have 2 units that I purchased, they have angled blades. The best that I can tell, all the manufactured units have angled blades while most if not all of the home made units have straight blades. Now why do you think that is? Wouldn't be because it's easier to mount them straight than it is at an angle. No, that wouldn't be the reason. My thinking is that the difference that there might be between straight and angled is so small, that it really doesn't matter.

I think that one of the biggest things that can't seem to be decided on is how far the cutting edges should be set below the runners. Some say flush, some say more, all I know is that mine are set 1" down and everything works just fine for me.

 

[jenkinsph]

Brian,
You may be right about the simplicity of a straight cut vs. an angled cut. But whether you use a torch or a chop saw to make your cuts making the angled cuts are just as easy as straight cuts imo.


I prefer the straight blade set up because I can adjust the top link and still have the blades parallel to the surface, can't do that with the angled blades. While it doesn't pose a problem on a typical driveway it does make a difference if it needs to be water level accurate such as the field work I have been doing.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
You may be right about the simplicity of a straight cut vs. an angled cut. But whether you use a torch or a chop saw to make your cuts making the angled cuts are just as easy as straight cuts imo.


I prefer the straight blade set up because I can adjust the top link and still have the blades parallel to the surface, can't do that with the angled blades. While it doesn't pose a problem on a typical driveway it does make a difference if it needs to be water level accurate such as the field work I have been doing.

Steve, no doubt that the straight blades work best for the accurate grading that you do. In general I doubt that very many people actually do the critical grading that you do.

As far as cutting, no problem for you or me or? But many people might have a problem measuring. Not to say that they can't get it done, but it is easier to measure straight vs at an angle and getting it right at the start.

 

[jenkinsph]

Brian,
I am going to try to finish another small field today, worked on it all weekend. I have spent a lot of seat time this year with the box blade and laser set up, doesn't leave much for the land plane to slick over. I will try to get some pics today of the box blading and land plane to show the differences. I know every one likes to see pics.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian,
I am going to try to finish another small field today, worked on it all weekend. I have spent a lot of seat time this year with the box blade and laser set up, doesn't leave much for the land plane to slick over. I will try to get some pics today of the box blading and land plane to show the differences. I know every one likes to see pics.