d 1850fd charging

[mit]

help some one. i have to charge my d 1850fd tractor everytime i want to start it. the charging light goes out but it is not charging. how do i fix it. the belt is tight the battery volts is 12.67. when the engine is running the volts drops to 12.65. there is no regulator.

 

[BTDT]

Sounds like alternator is bad. Also, you might have a short somewhere, pulling the battery down. Remove one of the battery cables (with engine off), then clip test light to cable, put probe on battery post. If light lights up, you have a draw somewhere.

 

[wushaw]

Test it from the back of the alternator if possible...if still not charging you can remove and take to auto parts store and see if they can test it for you to get a second opinion to confirm it is bad.

 

[mit]

does any one knows if there is a regulator that controls the charging?could this cause the problem? if it is what symptom should i look for.

 

[wushaw]

My 372 has a seperate regulator located under the instrument cluster. A regulator will do just what your experiencing or the alternator will cause it.

 

[mit]

i found the regulator. how do i know if the regulator is not causing the problem. i could remove the alternator and take it for a bench test but the last time i did that they said the alternator was bad and had to be rebuilt. when i brought back and installed it it still did not work i found a broken wire and when i put it together it worked.so i want to make sure before taking this one out.

 

[mit]

ok it is the alternator i checked the regulator and it is good. have to get this thing rebuilt. found that the rectifier cost 350 dollars.the rebuilt alternator cost 250.a savings of 100 dollars and u dont have to open it.does anyone know where to get replacement alternator parts cheaper.

 

[mit]

i saw some some parts that looks equavalent to mine on these sites:
National Quick Start Sales action=VIEWCATS&Category=163

eBay Motors: Nippondenso Denso Alternator Kubota Ag & Industrial (item 250104377071 end time Jul-12-07 04:56:32 PDT)


eBay Store – Triodiode DC Electric And Tractor: Search results for nippondenso.

hope this could save someone some time and dough.

 

[mit]

i looked into the alternator for the ford courier 1972 it is such a close match that i bought one. the bolts do not match up to get it to fit normal with the existing bracket. the connections match up perfectly.well what do i do?here is what i did: i went out and got two, two inches metric bolts with washers. then i hooked up the wires ,flipped the alternator around and bolt on the adjusting hole on the bottom. then i put the other bolt through the hole on top and use a nut to bolt it on.the bolts sticks out a little.it does not look pretty but it puts out 13.5 volts. the cost about 60 bucks.i took some pics :

 

[mit]

managed to put up the images. the adjustment on the alternator is maxed out. this could be a good temporary fix i think. any one care to make a comment? the pics were taken with the enging running.

 

[oliver28472]

Hey, that looks fairly permanent to me. Good job and thanks for sharing.

 

[mit]

just got back the alt i sent out for rebuilding at New and Rebuilt Tractor Water Pumps - A&T Part Rebuilders. it looks like new.cost 125 plus shipping.i dont if i will put it on in a hurry.thanks to all u guys.

 

[BTDT]

the adjustment on the alternator is maxed out.

Now all you need is a smaller belt, that will give you some of your adjustment back. Good job.

 

[mit]

ever since i did this the tractor did not see a charger. i was able to start it every time. the battery feels very strong. toyed around with it bit today no complains.

 

[mit]

did you guys knew that the amps on the original d1850 alternator is just 12 amps. that is just enough to run the lights and charge the battery.i always thought that tractors have powerful alternators.you may have to change this alternator if you want to put on a electric winch or flood lights.the ford courier alt i think was 35 amps.i wonder why was it necessary to put on such lo amp alt on these tractors.

 

[Ally]

hi MIT, if you're still using this forum would you be kind enough to post a piccy of your D1850FD (and anyone else for that matter)? The sticker on my tractor says D1850FD but there's a lot of dodgy going on's with the lack of plates and numbers on the tractor and with the ?!*@ who sold it to me.

 

[mit]

will try .see if these help

 

[Ally]

thanks for those photos yes the dash looks the same and from what i can tell looking thru the FEL the front looks somewhat the same. yours has a lovely flash plate covering the hyd pump and pipes. did you change your pump when you added the FEL? mine has a factory FEL but i find that when i lift and try to tip at the same time, the FEL will fall as it concentrates on tipping. Once the bucket is tipped, the arms will lift again.
i've enjoyed reading your posts as they've helped me understand my tractor a bit more (as i have not got a manual though not through the lack of trying!). i noticed you've had a bit of trouble with your 3pt linkage and control valve too. mine stopped pretty much the same way yours did. i've now got mine lifting with more ease than before but unlike before, now they won't hold pressure. any thoughts?
now for a really dumb question...what's a relief valve and what's it for? (like you, this is my first tractor too).
sorry to bombard you with all this but it's such a relief to find someone with the same tractor and who's worked on it so knows a bit about it.

 

[mit]

a relief valve is a device that prevents the pressure to exceed a safe value preventing seals and other critical parts to fail. one such valve should be near your gear shift it looks like a somewhat triangular part with 3 bolts holding it down.my fel works fine with the original hydralic pump that the tractor came with. however you cant use two controls at the same time.i always use one lever at a time.if you go to Valley Power and click on parts you will find the hydralic circuit that may help you with the 3 point.

 

[Ally]

hi mit. thanks for your help. i managed to fudge my way through though. after replacing the hydraulic case cover, i then replaced the o-rings in the flow control valve and fine tuned the settings til i was able to get the rears to lift under weight and lock into place when i closed the valve. things aren't perfect but at least i was able to connect up the rotary hoe (tilller?) and get my firebreaks done before the due date tomorrow