Cutting down a 'leaner'

[RobA]

Anyone have tips on how to take down a leaning tree? I have several trees that started to blow over in recent storms but other trees stopped them from falling to the ground. Most of them are in areas that where I can't bring my tractor.

 

[Johnp33]

What I do is cut the tree from the bottom up in about 6 ft sections, you really have to watch that you do not dislodge a dead piece that can fall on you. You just continue untill it is free.
Personally I have a very long rope, 3/4 inch.

 

[RSKY]

Even a small tree like those are potential man killers. Be very careful.

 

[dave1949]

Like Johnp33, I cut up from the bottom, but usually I cut in stove lengths or 2x stove lengths. The less you alter the weight and distribution of weight with each cut, the less wild the resulting action is going to be. Once in a while, you get one that will teeter up after you get enough weight out of the lower end, and they can slide down with pretty good force after cutting off a section, so keep your chin and toes out of the way.

With any chainsaw cutting, paying real close attention to the pressures in all directions, side to side, up, down, is important. Watch the saw kerf like an eagle and look up a bit too. If it feels shaky, back off and re-evaluate your plan of action. Dragging out with a long rope or chain is probably always safer.

 

[Professor Marvel]

I sometimes have to use a chainfall or comealong with a chain or strap or cable to another tree to pull the bottom of the tree out. If you whittle away at it and are cautious you can do it reasonably safely. As others have pointed out be constantly aware of any changing pressures or directions of movement in the tree.

 

[brin]

I have always used a chain and the tractor or a come along to pull the bottom of the tree and just pull it on down...I have found that to be the safest and fastest...no way the tree can fall on you..

 

[cqaigy2]

If you could get something to safely pull it out of the trees, it would be easier to cut. Otherwise, as stated above, I'd probably part way cut thru in lengths you feel comfortable with. Just be aware of limbs falling and as you get toward the top, it will start to get more vertical. Careful about being below any of those pieces you cut and if you cut at an angle from horizontal, those pieces will move, sometimes quickly, pretty much in that direction.

 

[magicheater]

I take it from the pic that the tree is uncut. I agree with cutting as close to the base as possible but make sure you have an exit route cleared prior to cutting. If the root ball has started to come out of the ground be very careful as now both the stump to be and the tree have forces on them. The stump to be may have tension and the tree of course will have gravity. Gravity is somewhat predictable but tension is not, very dangerous if you are in the wrong position. I have "walked" leaners down by cutting firewood length pieces from the butt end but always watching the tree itself as I cut. The safest way is to make the initial cut and then pull the tree away from the hangup.

 

[Avondale]

This is not the safest thing to work on but fairly common in dense bush. I cut a notch on the top of the fallen log at chest hieght, about 1/4 of the dia through to provide a relief cut. Then cut from beneath towards the notch until I see movement. if done slowly, you can "ease" the tree down. The upper part of fallen log will tend to swing towards the tree holding it up while the bottom part "should" drop if cut through and if not fully will tend to swing with the upper portion towards the holding tree as the cut weakens the fallen tree sufficiently. It may be the case that parts of the leaner will stay snagged in the holding tree. I cut up as high as I can reach and leave it to nature to deal with.

As mentioned, ensure you have your escape route planned in advance.

 

[dstig1]

Lots of bad things can happen. For example, at some point when cutting through it, you can remove enough weight that the remaining roots will pull the stump section back up to standing - very quickly. That can ruin your day if it hits you...and it can send the other section of the tree moving in unpredictable ways. Best bet is to pull it down with chains and tractor (hook chain to drawbar, not 3 pt). Then chop away. Anything hung up like that is quite dangerous.

If you can't get there with your tractor (as I just re-read) then a sturdy long rope is a good idea, though you need to watch for them snapping or coming loose and whipping back at you. A winch is another good route to go, if you have one.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I cut some just like that a few days ago. I cut about 1/3 thru from the bottom but not so far as to pinch your saw. I left about 3 feet of stump or enough so that you can cut from a standing position. Then saw it thru from the top. Be prepared for the tree to fall down and likely back toward the stump and the stump to spring upward. Just get back as fast as you safely can. Then continue to cut the tree from the bottom up till you can disentangle it from the other trees. If you think you may ever be able to get to the stump to pull it out, then leave the 3-4 foot section to tie on to for pulling it up otherwise then cut the stump off flush with the ground. I personally take them out by the roots by either pulling them up or digging them with the backhoe.
LAST THING: Make sure you have a buddy watching from a safe distance JUST IN CASE everything goes wrong he can assist you or get some help.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Another technique I used to get a slightly leaning tree out of a group entanglement and to the ground is to cut it on an angle of at least 45 degrees sloping down and let the tree slide of the slope and down to the ground. Cut it about 4 feet above grade, then drag it out with the tractor and chains or ropes to get it down and out of the trees. This works ok for trees up to about 12" in diameter at the base. YMMV on larger trunk size.

 

[tractchores]

The one pictured looks not bad, the real trouble is when they aren't leaning that much and could fall back. You have to pay attention to the forces, the tree has 2 forces on it in that position, gravity pulling it down, the lever effect created by what's holding it (depending on location that will push the base of the tree up or down - but usually up). When you make the first base cut you need to be exceedingly careful, the tendency is for the root ball to want to stand back up and depending on the lever the trunk will want to go up or fall down. After you make that cut it gets much easier, I just attach a come along and a chain to the base and pull it until it falls the rest of the way. If room is a problem you can make additional cuts, but each one is risky. If it's in tractor range that makes it much easier because you can apply forces to better control it or just lift it with the root ball. Wear a hard hat, use extreme caution, a sharp saw and make sure someone is watching in case you get pinned.

 

[Egon]

Use an axe. Saves the frustration of a pinched blade. Cut a good notch on the topside and leave it. The wind should do the rest for you.

 

[cqaigy2]

That's a good point too. If you don't really need to take it down, leave till comes down on it's own.

 

[WayneB]

Pay close attention to what Egon wrote! notch it and let nature take care of it.

 

[RobA]

It's not so obvious in the picture but the the fork in the leaner is wrapped around the standing tree. I don't care about the tree but I thought if there was a simply way to take it down I would cut it for firewood.

 

[dave1949]

I don't agree with "let nature take care of it" in most cases. That amounts to leaving firewood to rot, and a bunch of weight that will come down when it feels like it, not when you plan for it. So, why leave a hazardous accident waiting to happen on property you or others use, walk or travel through? A lot of variables come into play with that, I understand, but it is another thing to consider.

If the pictured tree is well seated in the fork against the standing tree, there is probably pressure being applied (by the standing tree) through the length of the log down into the stump. If I had to guess, I would say the pressure is greater along the top surface of the leaner log than the bottom.

If you decide to cut it, the standing tree and gravity will push the leaner toward the stump, and the stump will probably try to right itself, so you have forces in multiple directions to deal with. If the leaner log is running straight without a bow in it, it will likely not move/sweep to the left or right very much when cut from the stump, but that is another direction of force to watch for by reading the saw kerf and any rips or cracks that appear on the bark near the cut.

Working with chainsaws in the woods is always dangerous. If you don't feel comfortable, leave it. I've found that some of the tension in freshly fallen or felled trees and limbs will self-release given time to relax. In this case with the stump, that probably won't happen; the only thing that can give much is the tree that it is hung up in. That tree will eventually respond to the pressure of the leaner, but it will take a while.