cross over valve

[Ole Orange]

Quick question? I just installed a prince cross over valve on my loader mounted plow. When I was plowing this week end i fetched up on a rock, my trip edge tripped but pretty much stopped the tractor, I was going real slow but the cross over valve did not release trying to figure out do I adjust the two valves in or out for less pressure? I bought the 3500 lb unit and was told it comes preset at 2500 Lbs. not sure if I need to adjust it or not?
any helpful hints would be appreciated.

 

[oldnslo]

Ole Orange,
A couple of questions to help diagnose this problem.

1) Where on the blade did you catch the rock? Close to center or at the very end?
2) What position was the blade in when this happened? Straight, angled left or right..
3) Are you using two single acting cylinders or one double acting for swing?

 

[Ole Orange]

Ole Orange,
A couple of questions to help diagnose this problem.

1) Where on the blade did you catch the rock? Close to center or at the very end?
2) What position was the blade in when this happened? Straight, angled left or right..
3) Are you using two single acting cylinders or one double acting for swing?

I was at full angle I hit the rock at the far outer end of the plow on the leading edge.
I have 2 single acting cylinders.

 

[George2615]

To lower the pressure set point unscrew (counter clockwise) the valves.
I bought the DRV-4HH model (specs below). I tested mine against a tree to make sure it worked.

DRV-4HH
ADJUSTABLE 1500-3000 PSI Factory set at 2000 PSI @ 10 GPM

 

[oldnslo]

Unless something was connected incorrectly on the relief block it should definitely have worked under those conditions.

I would double check my hose connections to be 110% sure that they didn't get swapped during assembly.

Then I would start slowly reducing the set pressure. Typically turning left lowers pressure.

On mine I have them set so that if I am pushing into a snow bank with one corner the plow will turn. I believe they are at around 2500 - 3,000 PSI but have never checked this for sure.

 

[Ole Orange]

Unless something was connected incorrectly on the relief block it should definitely have worked under those conditions.

I would double check my hose connections to be 110% sure that they didn't get swapped during assembly.

Then I would start slowly reducing the set pressure. Typically turning left lowers pressure.

On mine I have them set so that if I am pushing into a snow bank with one corner the plow will turn. I believe they are at around 2500 - 3,000 PSI but have never checked this for sure.

OK now I'm confused how could I connect wrong?
I have 1 hose from rear remote into valve and out to cylinder 1 other hose from other rear remote into valve and then to other cylinder unless I'm wrong swapping hoses would just operate the opposite cylinder?
I like the tree idea I might gently try that to see if it releases.

 

[George2615]

On the valve attached your two plow cylinders hoses connect to ports B & D. The tractor hyd. lines connect to A & C. Not sure if yours is the same as this one is for 1500-3000 psi and you said yours was a 3500 lb. unit.


https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...00-3000-PSI-HYD-CUSHION-VALVE-9-4019-50-H.axd

Here's a pic of mine with the tractor side going into the top A & C and the plow cylinders going in the bottom B & D ports.

 

[Ole Orange]

On the valve attached your two plow cylinders hoses connect to ports B & D. The tractor hyd. lines connect to A & C. Not sure if yours is the same as this one is for 1500-3000 psi and you said yours was a 3500 lb. unit.


https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...00-3000-PSI-HYD-CUSHION-VALVE-9-4019-50-H.axd

Here's a pic of mine with the tractor side going into the top A & C and the plow cylinders going in the bottom B & D ports.

yup!! got it right, and this is the same valve as well as the same place I purchased it.

 

[Winmac]

I'd think it would be pretty hard to hook it up wrong, almost impossible and be able to angle the blade

 

[George2615]

yup!! got it right, and this is the same valve as well as the same place I purchased it.

If its the same valve its a DVR-4HH. Same as mine 1500-3000 factory set at 2000. Here's the link to Prince and the specs pdf.

Prince Hydraulics > Products > Hydraulic Valves > Relief > Model DRV

 

[Ole Orange]

If its the same valve its a DVR-4HH. Same as mine 1500-3000 factory set at 2000. Here's the link to Prince and the specs pdf.

Prince Hydraulics > Products > Hydraulic Valves > Relief > Model DRV

Thanks for the info I think I will try a test under controlled setting against a fixed object real easy like, and see what it does.

 

[J_J]

Perhaps you did not have the mechanical advantage to produce the crossover pressure.

 

[Xfaxman]

OK now I'm confused how could I connect wrong?
I have 1 hose from rear remote into valve and out to cylinder 1 other hose from other rear remote into valve and then to other cylinder unless I'm wrong swapping hoses would just operate the opposite cylinder?
I like the tree idea I might gently try that to see if it releases.

This doesn't sound right to me. Seems like it should all be on one remote?

Or by "other rear remote", do you mean the other port on the same remote?

Pictures would help.

 

[LD1]

How or what supplies power to the crossover doesn't matter. When it works, it will dump fluid from one cylinder to the other.

I also think you probably didn't have sufficient force for it to work.

My truck in plow gear is 11000 lbs. Likely 3x's what your tractor weighs. And a 10' plow so lots of leverage. It is still hard for it to crossover under normal circumstances. Only hitting something with speed does it.

So having a lighter tractor, probably a smaller plow, and going slow...not likely to happen. But if you were going 7-8 mph+ and it was a hard hit, I would expect it to pop.

BTW, what size is the plow And what size cylinders?

 

[Ole Orange]

How or what supplies power to the crossover doesn't matter. When it works, it will dump fluid from one cylinder to the other.

I also think you probably didn't have sufficient force for it to work.

My truck in plow gear is 11000 lbs. Likely 3x's what your tractor weighs. And a 10' plow so lots of leverage. It is still hard for it to crossover under normal circumstances. Only hitting something with speed does it.

So having a lighter tractor, probably a smaller plow, and going slow...not likely to happen. But if you were going 7-8 mph+ and it was a hard hit, I would expect it to pop.

BTW, what size is the plow And what size cylinders?

Answers to both the above questions--
1 rear remote using both sides of it.
My tractor weighs with loader and counter weight about 6500 to 7000 lbs
I have a fisher 7.5 HD plow with standard single acting cylinders that came on the plow.
I was pushing snow banks back along my 3/4 mile camp road going very slow perhaps 2-3 mph
The trip edge worked but due to the very soft road conditions the next edge of the plow then dug into the road on the farthest point out on the angle stopping the tractor.
A little more info when I saw the road last night while walking the dog the dig mark looks like it is 7 feet long where it dug up the road so.... perhaps it could not angle because both sides may have been in the dirt.
I have not had time to test it against a fixed object yet because I want to do this in the daylight and dark when I get out of work.
I will post on here for all as soon as I do.

Thanks for all the help I have learned many many things on here being a first time tractor owner.:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

In snowy and slippery conditions you would have a hard time making it crossover only going 2-3mph. Not enough traction to force it, and not enough momentum either.

And yes, if both edges dug in, the cylinders would see little pressure spike.

 

[PILOON]

In snowy and slippery conditions you would have a hard time making it crossover only going 2-3mph. Not enough traction to force it, and not enough momentum either.

And yes, if both edges dug in, the cylinders would see little pressure spike.

I agree with this conclusion.
I have used both plow trucks and my tractor is fitted with a push blade that has trip springs.
My trip setup is 'whole blade trip' and I can adjust the tension on the springs.
In that we don't yet have a good snow base established I am tripping my blade a lot at present so I go fairly slow.

On your tractor set up, when angled your blade could easily be cutting deeper when angled at tip or heel due to angle of attack unless you have a center pivot that allows your blade to pivot left/right to follow the road crown.
Large plow trucks have that center pivot while smaller pick up installations simply count on sloppy fits. (like 3/4 pins in 1" holes).

My tractor blade is somewhat tight fitted so I frequently scalp either right or left side when pushing but on a 6' blade it is not very noticeable merely leaving the odd inch or so surplus snow. Besides over time it all evens out and the winter drive is smother than the summer gravel/recycled asphalt.