Counter Weight

[marq]

I made an error a few years ago, it was all in good faith, but I sold my 3-point counter weight bucket since it had not been used in a number of years and simply did not see any future need.

Fast forward to today and I'm gearing up to build a new garage this summer and for that I purchased a set of bolt on forks to aid in the moving of material, and even the possibility of using it as a low platform for moving material to the roof.

I used the forks last week, they worked great, to move some brush around and found the tractor to be light on the front end, it's a JD 2210 compact, so you can guess where this is going.

Wondering if anybody had a novel approach to adding a couple hundred pounds to the 3-point that was simple, effective, easy using products that were "around the house", not wanting to go the route of making a home made cement barrel counterweigh, I'd just go find another box at that point.

 

[seville009]

I usually just use my brush hog as a counter weight. You have any attachments you can just stick on?

 

[jeff9366]

Here is your solution:

Simple 3PH Ballast for FEL

Just a piece of 3/4" all-thread attaching the old wheel weights to a 3PH crossbar. I removed the tractor drawbar to keep the weights from banging on it.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[WranglerX]

Have you go maybe 200-300 pounds of barbell weights or maybe old engine block from the last rebuild of motor for your truck... Got a "bone yard" on your property or access to one.... You are limited only by your imagination...

 

[newbury]

Put a backhoe on it.

 

[bcp]

Weights from Goodwill. About 3 feet of 1 inch bar. Pair of weight bar clamps.

Bruce

 

[Thomas]

Are you rear tires loaded?

I've seen V8 engine block use for counter balance.

 

[KennyG]

It's hard to beat concrete as a cost effective weight. I built a trailer hitch bracket for my quick hitch with a 2 inch receiver. Then I made a box for a form and poured a 300 pound block with a 2 inch square tube sticking out. It's a very flexible and easy to use setup.

 

[oosik]

What bcp shows - post #6. In my situation - I put my 1000# rear blade on the 3-point. Use your imagination - but be safe. I also have 1550# of RimGuard in the rear tires. A few times all my weight still isn't enough. I move LARGE rocks and chunks of pine tree trunk. I use the "knuckle dragging" method. When I lift the load - the bottom of the grapple will still drag on the high spots. Only do any higher lifting when I get the load to the exact spot and then, only if it's a good spot. Good spot = hard, dry, level ground.

 

[ripHST]

I needed a Carry-all, but wanted to have it on when lifting logs with the grapple so it needed to be heavy. I put an extra layer of 2x6s on the bottom to hold a bunch of lead I had. Still under construction but should do the job. It's a little over 500#s now and I still need to add sides, tail-gate (with vise) and tools. I should be able to go over 600#s before I'm through. I don't lift a lot of big timber so I think that should do it.