couldnt resist, ym1700

[Smoody]

Well I bought myself ym1700 today, has brand new set of turfs from hoye on it. Thing looks mint condition, 1042 hours..I like it a lot.

One thing..running it around the yard not working it the temp reads 205 degrees with temp gun..isn't that a bit high, it looks like its all antifreeze in it. I plan to replace with mostly water. I read the ones without water pump run a bit hotter?

I like the H/L And gear shifter..simple. got original rims and tires to!

 

[California]

That is beautiful. I wish Yanmars were plentiful like that out here.

Here's temp observations I posted long ago for my YM240 (YM2000). Readings were made with a HF infrared thermometer just after the engine had been working hard:

This was right after mowing:

140 degrees on the bottom of the oil pan, 165 at the lower block, and 195 near the injectors, at the upper radiator hose fitting, and at the radiator upper tank. The radiator lower tank was below 100.

I think Thermosyphon runs hotter than pumped but still, your sounds hot. Maybe a clogged radiator?

 

[284 International]

Wow, what a clean little machine! I'm interested to hear your comparisons of that machine versus the others you have had.

I don't know if that temperature is too warm or not. The specification for the coolant to water ratio is different than usual, 1:3, so if the coolant has more antifreeze in it than should be there, that may explain a little higher temperature.

From another forum, Wayne of LMTC shared this:
"Jeff, our experience is that the high humidity/temp combos in the Ohio River valley are tough on these tractors, which have a relatively small cooling capacity. IF...and ONLY IF....you will absolutely change to a more freeze-protecting solution before cold weather....try this for summer. 1/2 bottle of Redline Water Wetter, 1 quart of high quality ethylene glycol coolant, fill with water (app. 3 quarts). Even better, but a few more $$....sub the proper amount of RMI 25 (something like 1/2 cup) for the coolant. We have found the blend of RMI-25, Redline, and water runs 20 degrees or more below a typical glycol coolant blend----but it will not protect the engine from freezing."

 

[jerrybob]

Nice.....congrats and enjoy.!!:thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

Wow that is a nice clean little tractor you are one lucky guy with apparently that many to choose from! That could be a nice addition to anyone's maintenance fleet as a mowing tractor. I have only seen one YM around here it was a beat up 1510 with a bad engine I never even bid on it at the farm auction.

 

[Smoody]

Wow that is a nice clean little tractor you are one lucky guy with apparently that many to choose from! That could be a nice addition to anyone's maintenance fleet as a mowing tractor. I have only seen one YM around here it was a beat up 1510 with a bad engine I never even bid on it at the farm auction.

Well, they are not as plentiful as it appears, just lately a lot have shown up for sale, may go months before seeing another. Well, I take that back, they are for sale in my area weekly but not many good deals like in the past. Most people ask way to much for them.

It came with a overrun clutch already on it, so its ready to mow. I will keep in awhile and use it to mow about 30 acres. Then again, if I see something else I want Ill sell it to free up some cash. debating getting a finish mower for it and replacing my craftsman mower, (which cost almost as much new :thumbdown, yet will never outlast this yanmar!

 

[Car Doc]

That is a dream mowing tractor if ever there was one! :thumbsup: And yes I totally agree the price of a new rider or z turn is ridiculous compared to one of these for what you get its no comparison at all.

 

[clemsonfor]

Well, they are not as plentiful as it appears, just lately a lot have shown up for sale, may go months before seeing another. Well, I take that back, they are for sale in my area weekly but not many good deals like in the past. Most people ask way to much for them.

It came with a overrun clutch already on it, so its ready to mow. I will keep in awhile and use it to mow about 30 acres. Then again, if I see something else I want Ill sell it to free up some cash. debating getting a finish mower for it and replacing my craftsman mower, (which cost almost as much new :thumbdown, yet will never outlast this yanmar!

I mow about 2 acres with a 72" finish mower bnehind the 2000. thats a fine combo if you stay after the grass semi weekly but i only get that way every month or 2 and it is overkill size then. It will roll the smoke and pull it down when i get to the thick spots i have to drop a gear and or take 5ft bites to let the motor stay up. But still i use less than 1.5 gallons of deisel to mow what takes almost 5 gallons of gas in the 42" rider.

I dont look enough i guess. id love to buy these things and then pick um up to resell to hunters to make a few hundred here and there. I think cause you had some vn dealers up your way in the past and maybe still do you see a good bit as they are now maybe approaching 5-10 years old from original purchaser.

 

[deepNdirt]

Nice Ym1700 :thumbsup: The rear tires are not exactly full turf, But do look like would be easier on the grass yet still aggressive enough for traction in soil

The temp is a bit high for normal, mine has a temp gauge that shows 190* under heavy load use, about 185* for normal use,
Short of having to drain the complete system, Try reducing the antifreeze ratio and add in a bit more water,
and always keep the radiator clean,
I'm 4 years into using my 1700 and it never ceases to amaze me the task this size tractor is capable of doing,
Let me know if you ever what to put a FEL on it, I have designed/fabricated a Sub-frame system that will reinforce this tractor and takes the worry out of breaking things,

 

[Ginormous]

My YM1700 would run about that hot under heavy load, even with the recommended antifreeze mix. The nice thing about the thermosiphon system is that it pumps faster as the temperature gets higher (because the difference between hot and cold sides is greater.) I was concerned about it running so hot, but I never had a problem related to that.

 

[Smoody]

yea those are basically just all terrain truck tires, 315's

They are nice though, like you said they can be used in the soil and still easy on the lawn.

 

[deepNdirt]

If you can get the temp to lower, if by only a few degree by adding the water, but still not down to 190* or so, You might need a new rad cap, I remember when a combination of partly clogged radiator and Old Cap caused the radiator of my 1700 to swell and blow at the upper seam, The cap wasn't opening to allow the water to overflow into the catch-bottle,

I don't think 205* will ruin an engine, But It should be running a bit cooler,

Not sure about the logic in having the water being hotter helps to pump quicker is better, It needs to pump/perk slow enough to be cooled by air pulled through the radiator, right!
I think this can become a confusing theory, By one theory if water moves Too slowly it will allow it to become hotter,
The longer it stays in an engine the hotter the water becomes,.... However! by another theory if the water moves too quickly through the cooling system, Via: "Radiator" the radiator cannot do its job to cool the water down,
So it becomes a bit more science to get the adequate circulation on our Thermosyphon-systems.

 

[robsym240]

Nice find, good looking, clean tractor!

 

[Smoody]

Back flushed radiator and cleaned out the fins on radiator. Put mostly distilled water back in and tractor is running 170 at top near injectora after about 20 minutes running. Lower block temps are in 145 range. Guess that is OK..a lot of muddy water ran out during back flush.

The left brake was dragging and I broke the connecting rod trying to adjust it..it was rusted up and the rod gave before the bolt did

So now I only have right brake and need another connecting rod..hope I can find one.

 

[Smoody]

Also..how the heck do I remove this overrun clutch on my PTO shaft..my bush hog shaft is too long and can't hook up..I need to remove the overrun clutch..I took the allen stud out but it won't come off.

 

[deepNdirt]

Also..how the heck do I remove this overrun clutch on my PTO shaft..my bush hog shaft is too long and can't hook up..I need to remove the overrun clutch..I took the allen stud out but it won't come off.

If it is like the one I installed on my tractor you have to remove the grease fittings and turn the clutch until you see the pin align with the holes, Find something small enough to drive the pin through, you may have to catch hold of it with channel locks to pull all the way out,

Note: do not use a nail with a point because the point will go inside the pin and flair the end, resulting in only having one more chance of the pin having to be driven out the other side, I cut the end off an old screwdriver a little smaller than the pin and it worked perfectly, threw it in with the tractor tools, you never know when might have to remove it out in the field,

You really don't want to try using the bush hog without the OR clutch, especially with only one brake working,
Did you remove either end of the linkage rod before attempting to adjust it? Its almost imposable to do it while connected at both ends,

You can likely have the rod linkage repaired by welding it,
Put it back together with a but weld, and then sister a small pc of steal along side of the joint and weld together.
This should get you going until you locate another,

 

[284 International]

Note: do not use a nail with a point because the point will go inside the pin and flair the end...

You really don't want to try using the bush hog without the OR clutch, especially with only one brake working,

You can likely have the rod linkage repaired by welding it,
Put it back together with a but weld, and then sister a small pc of steal along side of the joint and weld together.

I agree with everything deepNdirt said. Depending on where the linkage broke, you could even slide a sleeve of tubing over the rod, weld it up and have a permanent fix. If the threads broke, you could still sleeve the good end, and cut off the head of a metric bolt and weld that into the sleeve, assuming it's not a reverse threaded end.

On a few occasions I've had an adapter/overrun clutch rust onto the PTO shaft, and require a prybar and penetrating oil to help it slip off.

 

[Smoody]

Well I thought I fixed the temp issue but apparently not. Pulling a 4' bush hog the 1700 ran up to 235 degrees..I idled down and it cooled off..I cleaned and flushed the radiator good last weekend..probably only used 10% antifreeze and 90% distilled water..ran it at 2000 rpm in L gear 3...what's going on here !

Should I do the water pump mod? If so what pump fits, ym2000?

 

[California]

I think you need not only a standard YM2000 pump but also a special adapter kit to attach it to. Hoye etc should have everything.

But - patching around a problem won't solve it. That tractor is rated to run at full load indefinitely without overheating or other sign of stress. If it won't, something still doesn't meet spec.

 

[Smoody]

Could it be as simple as a radiator cap? What # replacement do i need..that will be a cheap fix