couldnt resist, ym1700

/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #21  
For YM2000 Yanmar specifies 13 psi. I got a lever-release 14 psi cap listed for 70's Datsun. It fits perfectly and has worked fine for years.
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #22  
I'm "guessing" the 30 year old radiator needs professionally cleaned or a new one. Don't do it on my say so though. A new cap is much cheaper. :D
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #23  
Could be a cap but i think your radiator need rodding out. Its clogged. You cant really see it when it happens. trust me. I had an S10 blazer that would not overheat but just run hotter on the gage than i wanted it. New T stat and everything did nothing. Had the radiator professionally cleanded or rodded and it was amaxing the difference. there is scale that gets in there on the passages, you cant see it by looking in, its in the middles of them. It clogs them up and you dont get full water flow or completly blocked tubes.\

Find an old type radiator shop, probly will have a 60-80 year old guy that runs it or his son in his 40s maybe, no one does this anymore. They usually are not inthe best neighborhoods either. That or a commercial repair place may have a jobber to to them as its common on equiptment that may have expensive rads that are cheaper to fix.
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #24  
Agree. Rodding or replacing the radiator is worth it. That is a component that requires maintenance. After 30 years I doubt it is up to spec.

Spending the equivalent money to add a water pump (that Yanmar felt was un-needed) may be only an expensive detour on the way to rodding out the radiator.

I had a first-generation Trooper that spit out a spark plug and ruined the head after 14 years. The replacement third-party head had a warranty conditional on installing a new radiator. I think the head manufacturer had identified that overheating was what would cause warranty claims.
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #25  
Find an old type radiator shop, probly will have a 60-80 year old guy that runs it or his son in his 40s maybe, no one does this anymore. They usually are not inthe best neighborhoods either...

This is SO right on, and describes the only places I've ever found that will actually do radiator work like rodding out the core etc. :D
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #26  
Well i had experience. My father in law owned a shop. He was a general mecanic for auto/truck. If we had an onld school radiator like made out of copper, or it was something that was expensive or the customer wanted it fixed and not replaced even though the replacement may only be double....anyway there was a place just as i described. The concrete outside the place was black it was so oil stained. They did radiators. The owner then may have been late 40s or early 50s but that was 10 years ago. It was not in the best part of town. They did good work, i think something the size of a yanny rad would cost $40-50 then?
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Well I think I was my own problem. Apparently I did not tighten the clamp on the upper hose tight enough after backflushing and was losing water..after it cooled opened the cap and it was low..oddly the overflow bottle was at same level it was when I started..so it didn't pull the water in as needed...turns out the tube was clogged on the overflow bottle..I got it all fixed up and ran it about 30 minutes and bush hogged a bit..this time keeping rpms up not to lug the engine..checked temps and was 196 at injectors , 160 lower block...maybe that was all it was
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #28  
Smoody. I think you should add a bit more Antifreeze if it is at only 10% drain about 1 quart more of water/mix and add in about 1 quarts more of antifreeze, this is probably not perfect but closer to where it should be mixed with what you already have,
also if the overflow hose is stopped up it wouldn't be pushing water into the catch bottle, much less sucking it back out, Is the hose/tube in good condition?

I replaced the rad cap on my 1700 last summer with a 10psi, I cannot remember the spec on the original one but I thing it was a couple psi different one way or the other, In any case the 10psi has been working fine,
another thing I wouldn't be sure of is the engine temp reading of the block and cylinders, there are water jackets surround the cylinders, water could act as a buffer, presenting a hotter reading against the cylinder and a bit cooler reading on the exterior,
a temperature sending unit reads the actual water temperature from inside the block,
realizing your tractor has only the Dummy light, You might tray using a cooking thermometer inside the radiator filler neck, of course being careful when removing the cap and using a cloth, Or I'm sure letting it set for about 15 minute would allow to cool some, you might add a few degrees to the reading if letting cool,

I know at this point your not sure if to invest much $$ into the tractor, but if all is well and it's just a matter of getting the cooling corrected, a temp Gauge on the dash sure is handy to have, Rather inexpensive ( 30.00 ) and easy to install ;)
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #29  
Seems to me that aiming an infrared thermometer at the block's upper hose fitting and at the upper radiator tank should read pretty close to what an immersed temperature gauge will show. If the readings are well below the boiling point of a pressurized system (235* ???) then there's no problem. I agree there should be antifreeze in the water, even in summer, because it raises the boiling point higher than pure water. And long term it helps prevent corrosion.

In this case it sounds like the problem is solved and the tractor is ready to put in service with an expectation of normal performance.
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #30  
The reason I said and suggest checking the water temp is, I have one of them infrared temperature guns and it is inaccurate, I also have a digital test prob that is used in checking HVAC ( air/heat systems), one is used to read the serface tempt, while the other is used to read the interior tempt,
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #31  
I agree you will get better precision measuring the temperature with professional tools. But it seems to me all he needs now is a yes/no answer to whether the overheating problem is solved. So in this case the combination of infrared thermometer, warning light not coming on, and observing no boilover, leads to the conclusion that the repair is now completed (by fixing the leaky hose fitting) and he can put the tractor back in service.

Apparently the only problem was low water level. Also, there could have been boiling at spots in the head allowed by the low system pressure and low antifreeze percentage. (boiling at 212* instead of the 240* +/ - which a 30% coolant blend in a pressurized system would allow.)

Anyhow - it looks like the case is solved. :thumbsup:
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Well decided to sell..need to free up some cash. Anyone want it $2700 gets it all. Turfs and ags
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #33  
Does it have a loader?

Heck whats it matter i dont need it or want it (well really i want as many as i can get, but that wont happen while im marreid so that wont happen)!

And we all here know the problems! ha
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #34  
Well decided to sell..need to free up some cash. Anyone want it $2700 gets it all. Turfs and ags
Shouldn't have any problem selling it, if you do and you need to sale it quick, you might consider putting the AG tires back on, Drop the price to 2,500 then sell the turf's separate for 300, ;) would get you 100 more than you're asking, the lower 2500 price is more attracting to a potential buyer,
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #35  
Yea should sell fast. Was also wondering about the tires. Its bout time to start thinking about food plots. You will sell it fast. I do really hate I can't buy it. But I can only drive one tractor! And I really want a larger ag style tractor to turn a larger bush hog anyway. Like a jd. 10something or a ford 3000. Or even an old Massey but I don't see many of those.
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700
  • Thread Starter
#36  
no loader, and I already put the ags back on it..:)

I put it on CL in my area and no bites yet..weird kinda they usually go fast. the turfs are practically brand new..so tractor is only like $1800 if you consider the cost of the turfs new.

Why am I selling? Figure one would ask...the workshop I am building is costing me more then I planned and to STAY married, I need to get my cash back out of this tractor..I probably shouldn't have bought it..but...lol
 
/ couldnt resist, ym1700 #40  
Too bad most don't know how much the turfs cost but cause they fit jd as well u may want to sell tractor for like $2200 and sell turfs separate.
 

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