Convertible Cutting/Welding Table

[downsizingnow48]

Last year I got an old side draft cutting table from a scrap yard. The first purpose was to set it up for plasma cutting with movable 1x1 and 1x2 slats (photo 1). It works well for material of many different shapes and for containing the grit. The second purpose was for welding. I transplanted the top from a HF folding table. It is a good working height and very steady (photo 2). Third purpose I just set up today, a stand for the Makita metal cutting saw. The saw sits on two pieces of 1/2" x 6" flat bar, and the side supports are 3-1/2" square tube. All the chips now go down in the table instead of thrown everywhere (photo 3). The fourth use will be as a drilling table. Next week's winter project will be a stand for the new mag drill (photo 4). I am also thinking of putting a piece of heavy plate on top to use as a heavier welding table and vise stand. Although I have never felt like I needed that, it is obviously very common to have, and there must be a good reason.

 

[Big Barn]

That’s nice, Pat I especially like the way you utilized the square tube for work /length support on your saw base.

I just bought the same Makita dry cut saw. I have yet to build a table for it. I wish the handle “grip” was horizontal to make it more ergonomic. I may have to have a lower height table than I would like for this reason.

At what height is the saw on your table? Any concerns?

And good choice in mag drill. I have the 2” DOC unit as opposed to your 3”.

 

[downsizingnow48]

Thanks! The height of the saw clamping table is 41 1/2". That is a bit above waist high on me, which I like because it means less bending. But I agree on the awkward reach to the saw handle.

I don't need 3" DOC, but it has a 4" stroke which will be useful in the drill table setup.

 

[BukitCase]

Pat, your reasons for getting the 917 are pretty much same as mine; I tried to talk Terry into that one, but ANY mag drill beats NO mag drill if you're doing the type of fab work a lot of us "tractor-ers" do :thumbsup:

I built a little more involved mag drill table, guess I really should start a thread of my own on that :ashamed:

I like the idea of a "catch table" for the dry cut saws, gonna need something similar for mine. I bought the EVOSAW 380 for some of the ergo-reasons already mentioned - handle is horizontal, trigger is nearly full width of the handle, vise is really heavy duty with a simple quick release and comes with a handy "45 adapter" for cutting tubing, base is cast and the saw pivots BOLT to the table so you can "shim it into square" if it's not. Also, if you're a vet Lowes will ship it for 10% off and free shipping :thumbsup:

If I do something similar to your table for the dry saw I'll need to keep the saw table surface below about 37" tho; I have 4 of these
Robot Check

that I move around for the metal saws, and don't wanna pay for a few more of the taller versions (I have some nice Rockler stands for higher stuff like the wood band saws)

I have one of the HF portable weld tables still in its box, maybe I should start by just putting that up for the dry saw ... Steve

Oh, BTW - if you decide you want some of those Vestil roller stands, BE VERY CAREFUL - don't just blindly click on the "4-pack" without looking at what the PRICE does - try it and you'll see what I mean. When I saw that, I chose "1-pack" then changed "quantity" to 4. Worked on that AND some shoring stuff I bought later.

Amazon's site does this on several things, ya REALLY gotta WATCH...

 

[downsizingnow48]

Let's see that mag drill table might need to steal some ideas!

 

[BukitCase]

OK - there's already a few pics on other threads, I still need to sort things out and re-name; too hard to find 'em otherwise - Anyway, here's the easy-to-find ones, I REALLY need to find some "sort time" and do a write-up so people can experience "MY brand of insanity" :laughing:

First batch -

 

[downsizingnow48]

And you raise a good point on being able to shim the metal saw bolted pivot assembly. The Makita is all one casting and no complaints on that so far (after years of use). But the pivot is a bolt and locknut. With steady use that locknut will back off and now you have a slanting cut. It can be re-tightened to perfect vertical. But it takes a bit of finesse to get it tight enough but not too tight. I'm surprised the web does not have discussion of this weak point.

 

[BukitCase]

And some in-use ones -
The xy table - 6" x 18-1/2" Compound Slide Table | Grizzly Industrial
The cheap HF DP vises - Drill Press Vise w/ 4" Jaw

Got the vises on a coupon, think they were around $12.

 

[Big Barn]

I picked up a POS garage sale Ryobi drill press for $15, ditched the power head and fabbed up a few parts to make it into a portable drill press.

Nowhere near as slick as Steve’s. He has a few more years “experience” on me. TMSAISWI.

 

[BukitCase]

Found a few more -
The container roof is where the "long tall jack stands" went - allowed me to splay the roof supports so they're out of the way if I actually get to pour a slab there before I change my mind - they also allow for uneven ground if/when the WHOLE THING gets moved so I can put a REAL garage there... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Dang, this forum's turnin' into "tractor-gram"

 

[BukitCase]

Didn't show the ORIGINAL part of the "MDVT" - couple shots of drilling the "lifting eye" for my "off-road mig cart", seen in the early pages of my "container weld shop build" thread - the drill sits on a piece of 10" channel with its web beefed up with 1/2" flat stock so it's about 7/8" thick, good "grab" for the magnets on the drill. The channel is boxed in and becomes the fixed jaw of the vise - with that setup I can drill a 1-1/2" hole in a 2" piece of steel if I need to (don't need the work piece to be big enough for the drill to sit on)... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Oop, forgot to mention ANOTHER "feature" - the Grizzly XY table I have was bought several years ago, so this may NO LONGER be true - on mine, both lead screws are 10 TPI, which makes it REALLY easy to drill equally spaced holes - want 'em 1" apart? Just drill, crank the handle 10 turns, repeat (LOVE that "higher math" :laughing: And yeah, it is NOT "milling machine accurate", but still useful for a lotta stuff. Need 1-1/2" spacing? 15 turns between holes.

If I need a longer than 12" range of holes, simple - just run the x axis back to the other end, use the cutter bit in the LAST hole drilled, raise bit, do ANOTHER 10 turns, keep going (requires moving the piece in the dual DP vises of course)

There's nuthin' you can't cobble up if you're twisted enough... :laughing: ...Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

My goodness. What I have in mind is primitive compared to either the xy table or the repurposed drill press. Well now I have the weekend and Christmas to think about it. Thanks!

 

[BukitCase]

And by "thanks", you REALLY mean "are you INSANE??!?"

To which the OBVIOUS answer would be "of course" :laughing:

Seriously tho Pat, you're welcome to use, ignore, or ask more questions; whichever works for ya... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Hey Pat, sorry if I freaked you out with all the options - I just found a pic of the "humble beginnings", just the vise/platform setup - just consists of the piece of 10" channel with extra 1/2" top, 1/2" flat bar on the end that mounts in the vise (that end is countersunk and slightly longer screws used to replace the original removable jaw. If you do this, be SURE to get the part that replaces the vise jaw PERPENDICULAR to the top surface, makes it MUCH easier to get true holes in stuff...

If you zoom in on the pic you can see the 1/4" countersinked holes - I used button head allens IIRC - the rear supports (one is visible) are just 1/2" allthread and welded on 1/2" coupler nuts, it's a bit floppy without 'em. Notice I welded the coupler nuts flush with the BOTTOM - that way there's room for a bit of "stick-out" at the top, plus if necessary I could add a lock nut at the bottom (haven't needed it yet tho) - that mount also makes it easy to slot the tops of the allthread for a flat blade screwdriver.

Also, I wouldn't go any narrower on the channel - mine BARELY leaves enough room to clamp various scraps to the face for repeatable cuts. If I had it to do over, I'd have found a piece of 12" channel.

Another thing you won't know how you did without -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054RJ7VC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have others, but that model has a flip-up display AND does NOT use weird batteries, just normal AAA's. Plus, it has a dual display for absolute and relative angles, useful enough to be worth a couple bux more.

My setup is all mounted on a "nearly free" table from the scrap heap at work; has a 3/8" top, heavy angle frame. Top's a little uneven in spots, hence the "leveling bolts" in previous pics... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

Hey Pat, sorry if I freaked you out with all the options - I just found a pic of the "humble beginnings", just the vise/platform setup - jSteve

AKA non cup holder model.

 

[BukitCase]

Dang you Terry, an' I thought I wuz DONE once I found a "coolant-proof" big screen TV and tri-amped surround speaker setup

Brain appears to be busy now calculating the needed overhang on a " swing-away cup holder automatic motion-sensing lid" - we both know how big the "blast radius" is on those mag drills Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

This is very interesting. I had thought about converting a junk drill press, but then thought there was a good chance the table would not be square to the column and I would have to fix that first. Then I also thought about using an xy table, but decided it would not be all that well adapted to what I usually do. I did NOT think of mounting the drill to a vise!

I hope to get on the drill table project late next week. I have used the mag drill a bit and it is like magic compared to my old worn out presses. Something I should have done years ago.

In the meantime, what do you gents use for coolant?

 

[Big Barn]

If I’m drilling a LOT of holes or deep ones and mess isn’t a concern I will mix up some of this for the Hougen’s coolant bottle:



However most times for drilling 3/4” thickness and under I will give the annular cutter a couple drops of this before each hole:



accompanied by a stream of compressed air whilst drilling.