Control Question
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C
careyo63
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If it's the one in front in between your legs. It locks your HYD. lift in place so it won't move.
Carey
Carey
C
careyo63
Guest
Say you have something attached to the lift and it can't touch the ground, tractor running or not, screw it in and it will keep it from going down or going up also if its running.
Carey
Carey
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Edit: oops Carey beat me to it 
It just prevents the lift from going down. I believe it was designed to allow you to raise the three point, screw in the valve, and then not have to worry about accidentally lowering it. Like for example, you have a tiller attached and are doing some loader work. At least that is the way I have always pictured it working.
Aaron
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It just prevents the lift from going down. I believe it was designed to allow you to raise the three point, screw in the valve, and then not have to worry about accidentally lowering it. Like for example, you have a tiller attached and are doing some loader work. At least that is the way I have always pictured it working.
Aaron
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dex3361
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Its also a speed control for the 3PH lift so if you want to slow the up/down movement. You turn it clockwise facing the knob will slow the up/down movement.
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California
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Closed, that knob chokes the return line from the 3point. Then the 3point will stay up indefinitely even with the lift lever moved forward.
You can feel that this takes the load off the engine, idling or driving around, when you have a heavy implement held off the ground.
There is a different, smaller knob (or t-handle) to slow the descent rate of the rear implement. On some models it is under the left side of the seat. The manual says the big knob should be full open or full closed, with the small one adjusted to where an implement glides down instead of crashing.
You can feel that this takes the load off the engine, idling or driving around, when you have a heavy implement held off the ground.
There is a different, smaller knob (or t-handle) to slow the descent rate of the rear implement. On some models it is under the left side of the seat. The manual says the big knob should be full open or full closed, with the small one adjusted to where an implement glides down instead of crashing.
normde2001
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It's called the "servicing stop valve" for some strange reason, and should be either fully open or fully closed. Has nothing to do with drop speed control. You should never attempt to operate the 3ph with it closed or partially closed, or you could break the pump.
C
careyo63
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You are correct as usual California That is exactly the way mine is set up and works. the only thing is that I don't have a T-Handle just a screw with a pin in it. If you open the set screw to far it will not stay up and slowly come down.
Carey
That is exactly the way mine is set up and works. the only thing is that I don't have a T-Handle just a screw with a pin in it. If you open the set screw to far it will not stay up and slowly come down.Carey
normde2001
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You are correct as usual California
Carey
That valve does not keep the 3ph up, only adjusts the drop rate. Normally should be set for a 2 sec. drop.
California
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Here's the old thread where someone asked the same question 3 years ago. More than you ever wanted to know on precisely this subject.
In that thread, I posted the picture below from the YM240 manual. Now that I also have a YM186D, I discovered that YM186 has the same drop rate control ('slow return valve') but on the right side.
In that thread, I posted the picture below from the YM240 manual. Now that I also have a YM186D, I discovered that YM186 has the same drop rate control ('slow return valve') but on the right side.
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
when I got my Yanmar it was set to slam the ground, On my previous tractor L series Kubota I had 2- T adjustments one on top for down speed and another on bottom for lift speed, or the other way around cant remember which! but I could fine tune that tractor, with my YM only having the 1 adjustment i find it more difficult to set it up just right on both up and down rates, so i set it at a comfortable down speed, its a little slower then I like for it to come back up, I can live with it though,
C
careyo63
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WoW got me going now Norm about just what was going on then. I do though remember my lift not staying up hardly at all. Didn't have to do much that I can recall. After doing all of the service and having to replace the Hyd. screen/filter that was pretty much trash everything started working properly.Also my lower Adj.is straight up and in the middle now. I don't have any problems out of it since. Sniff Sniff Sniff I think I smell something burning.Oh prob. just me
While I'm at it. Deep N dirt do you recall talking about our location and I thought I knew the area. WELL DUH My Nephew dropped by to visit so I asked him didn't he live right there in the area, Couldn't remember just were it was but right through the 4way on Galilee. Sorry about that but it is getting a little better.
Carey
While I'm at it. Deep N dirt do you recall talking about our location and I thought I knew the area. WELL DUH
My Nephew dropped by to visit so I asked him didn't he live right there in the area, Couldn't remember just were it was but right through the 4way on Galilee. Sorry about that but it is getting a little better.Carey
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normde2001
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Guys, that lever does NOT adjust lift rate, only drop rate. Lift rate
"is what it is".
"is what it is".
C
careyo63
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Sorry about that Norm Your right as usual. I never had a problem With the lifting just leaking down and only if the Hyd. lock was off.
Carey
Carey
California
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Now I have a question:
On my YM240 I can feather the lift up and down to keep the box blade relatively even as I make a first pass over rough ground.
But on the YM186D it goes up so quick that it gets higher than I want instantly. Fiddling with the drop rate valve, I can't find a setting to grade earth smoothly.
1) is this normal, or is something misconfigured? 2) if it is normal, what technique do people use to grade evenly?
I'm about to put trainer wheels behind the 186D's blade so I can get some work done!
On my YM240 I can feather the lift up and down to keep the box blade relatively even as I make a first pass over rough ground.
But on the YM186D it goes up so quick that it gets higher than I want instantly. Fiddling with the drop rate valve, I can't find a setting to grade earth smoothly.
1) is this normal, or is something misconfigured? 2) if it is normal, what technique do people use to grade evenly?
I'm about to put trainer wheels behind the 186D's blade so I can get some work done!
deepNdirt
Veteran Member
LOL
I felt the same way at first,I set mine to fall from full lift to bottom in 3 seconds, I can then feather back up just enough to float at a level for smoothing, it seems as though it has to go all the way down and bottom out first before the blade can be set and stay at any certain level, how ever if i stop it on the downfall to try and set a desired level it will soon try to return back up slowly,
I do remember before I started adjusting on it when it was at free fall/ gravity fall and would raise quickly, it would do as your are saying, I could never get it to stay at any particular position it would always be on a gradual slow lift , I kept on adjusting until I got it where I had control of bringing it back up just at where I need it and it stay there, but it does have to go all way down first,
this adjustment would be somewhere 1/3rd or at about 2:00 on the lever,
Carey, Yeah I remember and do know where Galilee rd is. about 4 miles from where I am,
Ya know with all this rain we been having could be causing mildew... I hear breathing mildew & mold spores can cause memory loss
if this rain keeps up I'm going to forget how to get to this great website,
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