Oil & Fuel complete maintenance & lube -- advice requested

[amarlow]

It's been a few months since I've either read or posted, but... spring seems to finally be thinking about making an appearance here in SE Michigan, and it's time for the full frontal maintenance effort my tractor has been needing. This means all oils & fluids, all filters, all lube requirements.

I've never done this before, and am a tad nervous about making a mistake, so am looking to the forums here for the how-to advice, things to watch out for, little hints. First some details & background:

- I purchased my first tractor in July of last year, a 2006 New Holland TC34DA with ~100 hrs on it. It was in great shape, had been only lightly used, and was garage stored.

- It did NOT have the 50 hr filter change.

- I used it hard, well into the fall, mostly digging up buckthorn and Russian olive, pushing over dead ash trees, digging a "pad" for the upcoming critter barn, plus bush hogging, some post hole augering. It now has ~220 hrs.

- I wanted to name the tractor "Abigail," but my wife said it was the stupidest name she'd ever heard. So it's still just called "the tractor."

- I am mechanically inclined enough (an electrical engineer, so can't really help it), but have just a fuzzy idea how hydraulic systems work (what the heck is a spool? and why is it called that anyway?), and no idea how a hydrostatic transmission works.

- I have the operator's manual, and have read through "Section 3 - Lubrication and Maintenance" a few times, and mostly understand it.

- I am just a wee bit intimidated by the process ahead of me. I've done plenty of engine work & maintenance on cars & trucks, but not the tractor. I remember reading somewhere about issues with draining all the hydraulic fluid (volume? multiple drain holes/plugs? what is the best way?), so I'm nervous. Hence this post.

- Should I be doing anything to the fuel system??? (besides the fuel filter)

I would be most appreciative of any and all suggestions, help, advice I might receive. Thanks sincerely in advance.

~Allen

 

[bigbull338]

a spool is a what i call rear remotes,an they run equipment hydrolics.you shouldve changed the oil an oil filters at 100hrs use.i change the oil an oil filer every 100hrs

 

[Wolfy]

The 50 hour engine oil change is important, as it removes any metal shavings left in the engine, I would change the oil as soon as you can. Check the hydrostatic fluid level often, those transmissions don't operate efficiently on low fluid. The 2 best things you can ever do for your tractor, 1, get an owners manual (if you don't already have one) 2, Napa sells an excellent all metal, very large funnel, with a built in brass screen. I never refuel any of my tractors, without pouring fuel through the funnel while it is positioned over the fuel tank. Good Luck!

 

[Gordon Gould]

A spool is a shuttle that move back and forth in the body of a hydraulic valve when you push the lever. It is shaped like a spool and has grooves and holes machined into it to direct the flow of hydraulic fluid to the circuit you which to activate.

On your maintenance - just do what your book says. Catch up to where ever you should be at 200 hrs and then just stay on time. I would not worry overly that you missed the 50 hr mark.
If you can do a car you can do a tractor. There is just more oil.
When I do my hydraulic fluid I drain the highest plug first and almost fill a 5 gallon bucket. Then I do the lower ones. When I fill I always buy at least one small container like 2 gallons and the rest 5 gallon pails. I use the small one first then refill it with the 5 gal one. There is not room and it is heavy to fill from the 5 gal bucket easily. Or a pump would be good. Motor oil and filter same as a car. Except more room to work.
Good luck

gg

 

[big bubba]

agree that neglecting to do the 1st 50 hr may not have hurt the power train....but why did you neglect, being the engineer knowing the hourly maintenance on that important 1st change? initial change also removes any casting debris, etc in the housings. good luck, am sure it will be fine, maybe only shaved away a few hours on a 5-10 k hr. machine!

 

[TripleR]

Don't worry about it, I am disabled but my wife and I do the maintenance on our tractors except the M8540 which my son does now. Take your manual, don't get in a hurry and take it step by step. While I have been doing this sort of thing for years, I am by no means a mechanic. You will be surprised at how simple it really is.

 

[CBeal34]

I bought one of these before starting my 50 Hr service. Filters came off without a problem, wish I had gotten one a long time ago.

Craftsman Adjustable Oil Filter Pliers
Sears Item# 02820520000 Model# 20520

 

[amarlow]

Thanks to all who replied so quickly.

I especially appreciate the input about the bucket and smaller container. That's a useful tip.

Re. the neglected 50hr maintenance: I bought the tractor with 100hrs on it, and didn't know the previous owner had skipped the 50hr oil/filter change until almost I had put another 100hrs on it. He had promised to find the owner's manual for me, but never did. I found one on eBay, saw the maintenance schedule, contacted to fellow who sold it, and asked about this oh so important 50hr maintenance. By that time it was almost winter, and I decided to wait until next spring (which is now here).

Now, off to do the work...

~Allen

 

[Transit]

Changing the oil for a tractor engine is nearly the same as a car or truck engine, just lots more oil to deal with and it comes out fast, have a big bucket. The most popular oils are 15w40, 10w40 and 5w40 chose a name brand.
Hydraulic oil is different than machine oil; the most common hydraulic oils are 32 AW and 46 AW, some manufactures call for 10w30 engine oil. The front axle oil is most likely 75w90 gear oil. I am not sure what transmission oil is called for, it may be universal oil or one of the above oils.

Darning the oil is simple, look for the low points. Lake a car the low point on the engine is the oil pan plug. Drain hot.

The transmission may have two or more low points, drain the hi point first, than the low point or you may be dealing with a lot more oil than you are ready for.

I like to use a filter wrench that fits over the end of the engine oil filter with a 1/2 inch ratchet drive.

The four wheel drive transfer case under the transmission is the very lowest point and the oil will shoot out FAST.

The front axle should have three drains, one on the axle case and one each at the low point of each wheel final drive.

Refill and check the dipstick for the correct oil level. Refilling the transmission can be tricky; some transmissions are compartmented and are filled in steps to allow the oil to settle. Follow the instructions in your manual...

Check the engine coolant and if it needs to be replaced, use a coolant for diesel engines that is formulated to deal with cavitation, a premixed 50/50, it would not hurt to install a coolant filter to catch any solids in the coolant.

Tractors run on grease, a molly EP grease will do once a day depending on how hard you run the tractor.

Keep the air side of the radiator clean and free of chaff. It is easer to clean a filter than a radiator.

You will need ï/2 inch drive ratchet and torque wrenches, figure on 6 pt sockets in both SAE and metric.

Use torque values appropriate for the bolt size and grade. I always coat the bolts with an anti-seize compound so that they never rust tight. The wheel lugs are the most likely to loosen with use.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I bought one of these before starting my 50 Hr service. Filters came off without a problem, wish I had gotten one a long time ago.

Craftsman Adjustable Oil Filter Pliers
Sears Item# 02820520000 Model# 20520

I have one of every oil filter wrench know to man kind. The filter in my wife's CRV was a real dog to get at and I tried everything. Sooo, I have one like in the picture and they are great - at times. But be very careful using them. Some filter cannisters now adays are thinner than a beer can and can be easily dented and torn. Then if it doesn't come off you are in a pickle. Don't ask how I know.

 

[amarlow]

Any reason I should not mix the New Holland Ambra G134 hydraulic fluid with the Rotella brand fluid available at Tractor Supply?


Thank you, Transit. Great info.

I have just finished draining the hydraulic fluid (also the transmission fluid for my HST). Plugs are back in, new filter spun on. Now need to add fresh fluid. The manual calls for ~8.8 gallons. I have a bit less than 5 of the New Holland recommended (New Holland Ambra brand) fluid. Hence my question above. Any reason I would not be able to mix this with the Rotella brand fluid available at Tractor Supply?

I need to find me the actual shop manual for my TC34DA. (The owner's manual doesn't have any torque values that I can find.) If anybody has one they'd like to sell, please let me know.

~Allen

 

[Soundguy]

if you can maintain a car.. you can do the tractor.. warm her.. drain oils, replace filters, repalce oils, hit all lube points.. check any adjustment points.. check tires.. check things youforget like belts, hoses, and PS.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Any reason I should not mix the New Holland Ambra G134 hydraulic fluid with the Rotella brand fluid available at Tractor Supply?


Thank you, Transit. Great info.

I have just finished draining the hydraulic fluid (also the transmission fluid for my HST).

I wouldn't try to mix when refilling.. go with one or the other.

topping off is different. i would not be afraid to top off either fluid with either fluid, as needed.. but if I needed 10g to fill.. I would not buy 5g of eah.. etc.

i use walmart or tsc utf fluid in all my machines calling for M2C134D spec oil..

soundguy

 

[johnamon]

There are lots of sources of tightening (torque) values. Maybe an engineering book or reference book. Or Google it. Try rechecking your manual. Sometimes values are listed in the directions for a specific task. Also check near the back for a chart.

Here is a chart from the [URL="http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque2.htm"]Engineers' Handbook[/URL].


THINK about what you are doing. The value depends on the material with the threads (both the tapped hole and bolt/stud), the size of the fastener, the pitch of the threads, and if they are dry or lubricated.

It is not rocket science but does require some caution. :thumbsup:

 

[Fork14]

How did this turn out, specifically the hydraulic fluid change? I ask because I just did the 300 hr maintenance on my TC 34DA and found the 8.8 gallons to be way too much for some reason.

 

[amarlow]

Feedback to everyone on the TC34DA maintenance adventure (I began this post last Wed or Thu, but got interrupted):


I'm just about done. Changed the hydraulic oil over the Easter weekend, and the diesel engine oil Tue night. Plus all the filters (except fuel, still nervous about bleeding the fuel system). And lubed all fittings. I think.

It went just fine. Some comments & thoughts:

-- I had just the right tub into which I could drain the hydraulic fluid. Maybe one foot tall, but about three feet square. The tub was way less than half full when all fluid had drained. I then emptied the tub, in stages, into a 3 gallon, wide mouth, screw on lid container and hauled the used fluid to the local auto parts store for recycling (no charge).

I had read a few places of folks who were overwhelmed with the volume of fluid, so was concerned. Having this big tub made all the difference. I suppose a good substitute for the one I used would be one of those concrete mixing tubs (~$6 from Lowe's or Home Depot).

-- When emptying the hydraulic fluid, I pulled all three plugs in succession. Once all had drained, and I was down to minor drips, I cranked over the engine a couple different times (it actually started one of those times), then immediately turned the key back off. This pressurized the system enough that I probably drained another full quart out.

-- I then spun off the hydraulic system filter, which had another few ounces in it, and dropped it into an empty Lender's bagel bag (just to keep things as tidy as I could). The new filter went on without a hitch, and not overtightened.

Note, the old filter was rather dented on the bottom, ie. the end that faces down. Don't know what's up with that.

-- When I went to change the H.S.T. filter (hydrostatic transmission), it did not match in appearance the OEM filter that was on there. Unfortunately, the "operator's manual" does not actually give the part number for the proper replacement filter, so I was stuck until Monday, after the Easter weekend.

As it turns out, I did in fact have the proper replacement filter, and it is in fact smaller in diameter than the originally used filter. It went on yesterday (Tuesday) without a problem.

-- After replacing the three plugs (cleaned of any oil & grit, then properly torqued), I began filling her back up. I am always paranoid about letting debris into the various filler & dipstick holes in my life, so I first very carefully cleaned around the opening and wiped off the o-ring.

I used a long, goose necked metal funnel with a fine mesh brass filter screen. That screen served its purpose, catching a couple of small twiggy things. But man did it take forever to drain through. Probably 30 minutes for that first 5 gallons.

My method here was to pour fluid from the large, 5 gallon bucket into a more manageable 1.5 gallon jug (a repurposed Aunt Jemimah syrup bottle). This is the jug I used last year for topping off. In this way I didn't have to hoist the quite cumbersome 5 gallon bucket up to the funnel.

The TC34DA spec'd hydraulic fluid volume is 8.8[gal]. I believe I put about that amount in, but it is overfull. I'm now in search of a length of tubing I can use to siphon off some of the excess.

How much too much, I don't know. The low/full marks on the dipstick are only about 3/4 to 1 inch apart. The fluid level is reading about 3/4 inch above the full mark. But again, I don't know how much extra that means.

And meanwhile, what happens if you run your hydrostatic tractor with too much hydraulic fluid in it?

-- Last Tue night I cranked her up, let her warm, then drained the engine oil. Very straight forward.

The spec for oil volume is 4.2 US quarts, but I only drained about 3 quarts out. I saw zero signs of a gross leak. Is this normal for a diesel engine to burn a quart of oil in the first 200 hrs of its life?

-- I also have greased all the gazillion lube points. There are a half dozen up front, in the front steering mechanisms, more in the drive shaft, the clutch & brake linkages, sixteen on the loader alone, and some in the back associated with the 3-point hitch.

-- I used a spray lubricant called "Fluid Film" to lube all the linkages, rub points, and the balls in the 3-point lift arms and top link.

-- The only thing left now is the fuel filter. Any cleaning or replacing requires bleeding the fuel lines, which makes me a bit nervous. I don't think I'll do that until I get the tractor back to the property, where a little diesel fuel dripping on the gravel won't be that big a deal.


I've probably left something out, here. I want to say thanks for all the help and suggestions. This forum is a great resource. Hope these notes will be useful to someone else at some point.

~Allen