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   / CLOSE TO BUYING #41  
if you're thinking about shuttle vs hst, consider this:

If you're working the loader controls with one hand and the steering wheel with the other hand, which would you rather have: a third hand to work the shuttle lever, and maybe a fourth to work the throttle, or a foot pedal to control the direction and speed of the tractor?

I've worked with both and the hst is so easy, precise, and quick to use.
I don't get it. I have a shuttle and don't need more hands for loader work.
There is a foot peddle for the throttle.
If working a shuttle lever is as difficult as you claim, then why do most commercial front end loaders and backhoes use a shuttle lever for forward/reversing ??
 
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   / CLOSE TO BUYING #42  
I don't get it. I have a shuttle and don't need more hands for loader work.
There is a foot peddle for the throttle.
If working a shuttle lever is as difficult as you claim, then why do most commercial front end loaders and backhoes use a shuttle lever for forward/reversing ??

This is one of the reasons that there is what there is. Everyone has different capabilities. HST makes things easier for a lot of people, for some people, it doesn't seem to really make any difference one way or the other. No one needs to have 3-4 hands or feet to have things work properly. :rolleyes:

I'm still trying to figure out why everyone thinks that you have to have the RPMs up so high on an HST. :confused3: I run around all the time at an engine speed no different than I would be using on my gear tractors at. You work the tractor, RPMs go up, your just doing light work or simply driving around, the RPMs are down low. ;)
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #43  
I don't get it. I have a shuttle and don't need more hands for loader work.
There is a foot peddle for the throttle.
If working a shuttle lever is as difficult as you claim, then why do most commercial front end loaders and backhoes use a shuttle lever for forward/reversing ??

how does anyone EASILY manage the wheel, the fel and the shuttle? The throttle may or may not be on the floor.

I've driven tractors for over 25 years, 2-3 or more times a week, where I could use 3 hands to steer, shift, work the fel. I only had a handle throttle.

I did it A LOT and I managed. It becomes second nature after a while. I'm not saying it's not possible, just that it's not easy and convenient. It's doing something the old way, where everyone accepted it, as it was the way that it was done.

It takes a new-to-hst person about five minutes with an FEL and a pile of dirt to understand the concept of backing off the pedal when you drive into the dirt pile.

Now that I have an HST, it is SO much easier. I would never go back.

I have to agree with MtnViewRanch about the speed thing. I run my 3016 at about 1500 RPMs and it does everything I need it to do. If I want to go faster, I press the GO pedal. It goes along well with it in H range. I've been working with it mostly in M range and once I wanted to see if I could uproot a small tree so I put it in L range. I don't generally adjust the throttle.

I didn't have a tach on my previous tractor and judging by the sounds of each, I think the other was usually running about 1500 rpm's as well.

To each his own. I'm just telling it from my personal POV.
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #44  
how does anyone EASILY manage the wheel, the fel and the shuttle? The throttle may or may not be on the floor.

I've driven tractors for over 25 years, 2-3 or more times a week, where I could use 3 hands to steer, shift, work the fel. I only had a handle throttle.
How old are the shuttle machines you are running.
It must be old stuff if it has a shuttle and no foot throttle.
I think every machine I have used or looked in the past 20+ years that had a shuttle, also had a foot throttle.
If you are shuttling from forward to reverse you are pretty much at or near a dead stop during the shift , why do you need to be steering at the same time?
I can flip the shuttle lever with my finger tips while the rest of my hand is on the steering wheel if need be.
Never needing extra hands.
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #45  
How old are the shuttle machines you are running.
It must be old stuff if it has a shuttle and no foot throttle.
I think every machine I have used or looked in the past 20+ years that had a shuttle, also had a foot throttle.
If you are shuttling from forward to reverse you are pretty much at or near a dead stop during the shift , why do you need to be steering at the same time?
I can flip the shuttle lever with my finger tips while the rest of my hand is on the steering wheel if need be.
Never needing extra handles.

I use to have a 1975 Case TLB and it had a foot throttle. Now our 1943, 1962 & 1964 tractors do not have a foot throttle, although the 1962 Case does have a place for one. I guess that maybe it was an option back then? ;)
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #46  
I use to have a 1975 Case TLB and it had a foot throttle. Now our 1943, 1962 & 1964 tractors do not have a foot throttle, although the 1962 Case does have a place for one. I guess that maybe it was an option back then? ;)
That's what I'm saying.
It must be some old stuff he is using if it has a shuttle and no foot throttle
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #47  
There are shuttles and there are shuttles. A forklift has a little blinker lever size switch you can barely flick with a finger and you are going the other direction. No clutch. Some shuttles (like the Mahindra 5035PST) are similar as when you move the shuttle lever it clutches for you, although it takes more effort than a flip of a switch like on a forklift. It is more mechanical. Then we have the clutch type shuttles which are basically just gear transmissions with the convenience of forward/reverse in any gear. Beyond the forward and reverse aspect we can discuss the range gears and speeds. Some tractors are all synchro, some are not. So the HST vs shuttle debate can get complicated if you factor in the variety of shuttle types on the market. I prefer hydro in the smaller tractors for most of what I do, but if they had a super nice "flip the switch" shuttle on small tractors like they do on forklifts or big construction equipment, then a shuttle would be might nice. But I expect that type of transmission is too expensive for a $15k tractor.

People like HST because it is faster to change directions and you can go super slow for tilling or snow blowing. Yet for the average homeowner saving a few seconds here or there really doesn't pencil out, it is really about what you are most comfortable using. A regular old stick transmission with a high and low will get the job done every time, if that makes you happy. I have an orchard tractor I use solely to pull a 10' mower. High range, 6th gear, 1900 rpm. You could throw away the other 7 gears and I wouldn't know it. For that application a HST would be useless for me.
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #48  
Here is my .02 worth.

I am jealous of those who have a hydro, but it doesn't mean that I want one. For me it is the proven design of a good old fashioned standard tranny. Many turn of the century tractors are out their in the field every year still working hard for it's owners. They were basic no frills machines which lasted longer than their owners. Those tractors were passed on for generations and most still can do 'work'. That impressed me....So when I finally bit the bullet and spent the money for a new tractor for myself, I looked for those same attributes. Simple straightforward old school design was what I wanted. I HOPE that my tractor will stand the test of time like Ford/Deere/Massy did. No plans here to trade-in for a new one; ever. New stuff seems to be comfort oriented and are packed with great features which is good- until it fails. The power windows failed on my daughters Acura the other day and it took days to make the repair, Funny though my 73 ford has never had a problem with the window(or window crank) and it is 30+ years older than her Acura. Food for thought?
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #49  
. Food for thought?

Good food for thought. I like basic tractors for basic work, but some frills for utility work. I am not the type to go out and buy a new tractor just because there is a new feature. It has to pencil out or have a feature I simply need (ie a cab).
 
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  • Thread Starter
#50  
All good points and adds more food for thought so to speak. As I said before not very much time will be loader work, probably less than 5 hours per year if that. Once every three years I brush hog a 5 acre field but that may increase in frequency if on a newer more comfortable tractor. The rest of the time will be mowing 8 acres more or less with a belly mower. I had never considered a Kubota due to the fact I thought they would be more expensive. I was proved wrong and I like their quality and more refined features. All that really does not matter too much to me except for the fact that seat was very comfortable! As it was pointed out in a previous post it is lighter and would not tear up the yard as much as the heavier Mahindra. My yard it very solid and drains well with only about 2-3 inches of top soil so it is very solid so the weight would not be an issue on my yard.

Do any of you guys have any faults with the Mahindra 60" decks? I had read sometimes people bend the nose roller mount brackets. I cannot think they would be hitting something pretty solid with them and if that were the case whatever the nose roller hit would also bend or break a blade or two as teh deck passed over whatever they hit. By comparison the Mahindra deck looked much better than the Kubota.

Thanks again for all the responses and very helpful points to consider. This more than likely will be my last tractor purchase in my lifetime so I want to make it as right as possible.
 
   / CLOSE TO BUYING #51  
I too, wanted a belly mower as you..... It took a lot of soul searching to make the decision between an under mounted 60" deck and the 3pt finish mower. My property is bordered on three sides by forest; lots of forest. The trees are so thick that I felt that with a belly mower I couldn't 'reach' under them with a tractor. I spent hours swinging a weed-eater/ pushing a lawnmower underneath the foliage trying to keep the forest at bay. So the decision was made, I would get a 3pt finish mower and back in under those tree's and mow super steep hills with the mower in tow. To give you an idea on the hills- no way I would mow sideways, just too steep. Now since owning and using the finish mower their have been lots of changes on how I mow, where I mow, and how to navigate around trees. A bit of a learning curve in operating the rear mower and with time I have mastered the technique. I wanted the clean cut that a belly mower gave and it did not achieve that quality. It did get close to the quality that I wanted after pulling the blades and sharpening them however. If at all possible give it a try when you make your purchase, to test out both options- belly and 3pt finish to see for yourself.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#52  
Boy can I relate to 3 point hitch mower! I have a wooden fence around the upper edge of my yard and many times I have made the turn with the rear mower and took out a post! So back I went with the post hole digger (the manual type) and set another post and put the boards back on. Seems like I would strive to get as close as possible to cut back on the weed-eating time only to hit a post and then have to rebuild everything. I have since sold the rear finish mower and have not missed it at all. Having my yanmar tractor I have learned how and where to go with it on all the steep ground here so with a belly mower it will lower the center of gravity even more so those places will be safer also. Thanks all once more.
 

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