I've got a Bobcat Skidsteer S250 and I cleared out a 6 foot wide trail through about 50 acres in one afternoon. If you don't have access to borrow one then rent one for a day. They are not that expensive to rent. I took out trees 8" in diameter. You might have to dig around the rootball of some of the larger trees to push them down. I've got a clam shell bucket on mine which makes picking up piles easily done.
Clearing Trails
- Thread starter bmac
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KubotaSteve
Platinum Member
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- eastern panhandle of WV
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- Kubota B7800 with loaded R-4s
The sweat equity for the kids is a great idea. I put in quite a few paths for my (now 9 years old) daughter and she road the 4 wheeler on them a couple of times then became bored and really hasn't been back on them unless I ride them with her.
I had few trees around where I was cutting my paths but my concern was hidden rocks. I started with the landscape rake, then went back with the rotary cutter and then finally the belly mower. I keep all the trails mowed now because my wife walks them. Not sure they would stand up to constant ATV use those by keeping them mowed short.
Just one other thing about the chain saw. Don't forget about the tree that you just cut down. The chain saw is something you can control, however sometimes a tree can do funny things when cut. I've seen them spin on their stump, fall opposite from the way you cut it, etc. People usually won't go to a dentist with a crushed head or all of his teeth knocked out! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif But it sounds like you got the safety thing down. Good luck and have fun with the kids clearing the trails
I had few trees around where I was cutting my paths but my concern was hidden rocks. I started with the landscape rake, then went back with the rotary cutter and then finally the belly mower. I keep all the trails mowed now because my wife walks them. Not sure they would stand up to constant ATV use those by keeping them mowed short.
Just one other thing about the chain saw. Don't forget about the tree that you just cut down. The chain saw is something you can control, however sometimes a tree can do funny things when cut. I've seen them spin on their stump, fall opposite from the way you cut it, etc. People usually won't go to a dentist with a crushed head or all of his teeth knocked out! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif But it sounds like you got the safety thing down. Good luck and have fun with the kids clearing the trails
BlueToy1
Silver Member
One of the first things I did was show my daughter the balance points on the quad. I did this by having her sit on it (not running of course) while I balanced it on both right side, left side & rear tires. It showed her and allowed her to safely FEEL where the point of no return was before flipping over. Now she doesn't ride anywhere with much slope, but she knows what it would feel like before it would roll. I also had her practice bailing off without having it roll on top of her. Where she rides, she'll likely never have to use it but I wanted her prepared for the worst should it occur.
As mentioned earlier, slime your tires and it should eliminate most flats. I've never had a flat from running over small stumps. But over time the tires will settle the dirt around them until they become exposed and can give the handle bars a nasty unexpected jerk. Keep an eye on them.
As mentioned earlier, slime your tires and it should eliminate most flats. I've never had a flat from running over small stumps. But over time the tires will settle the dirt around them until they become exposed and can give the handle bars a nasty unexpected jerk. Keep an eye on them.
I'm a bit hesitent posting this because it may be misinterpreted, but here goes...
While learning the handling characteristics of an ATV, you can SLOWLY drive in figure "8's" causing the bike to GENTLY lift the inboard rear tire. This also helps with getting a feel of the balance of the bike and how turning the other direction compensates. I WOULD NOT allow my kid to do this untill I was sure he was comfortable with the bike in general and I was there to watch...
Like I said, you can take it however you will, but to respect a tool you must know its limits... I prefer to be there when he learns something potentially dangerous, they will do it at some point,whether you're there or not......Just be very carefull..
While learning the handling characteristics of an ATV, you can SLOWLY drive in figure "8's" causing the bike to GENTLY lift the inboard rear tire. This also helps with getting a feel of the balance of the bike and how turning the other direction compensates. I WOULD NOT allow my kid to do this untill I was sure he was comfortable with the bike in general and I was there to watch...
Like I said, you can take it however you will, but to respect a tool you must know its limits... I prefer to be there when he learns something potentially dangerous, they will do it at some point,whether you're there or not......Just be very carefull..
riptides
Super Star Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ,,,suggested that using dozer would result in trails that were too wide and would really tear up the terrain... )</font>
Now that is an interesting comment. Trails to wide. Personally I would want my trails two or three "mistakes" wide. The dozer route would give you not only that room, but also give you the ability to hold off the eventual regrowth of the trail for a time. Maintenance of saplings and overgrowth from limbs can be very time consuming.
What ever way you choose,best of luck!
-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Now that is an interesting comment. Trails to wide. Personally I would want my trails two or three "mistakes" wide. The dozer route would give you not only that room, but also give you the ability to hold off the eventual regrowth of the trail for a time. Maintenance of saplings and overgrowth from limbs can be very time consuming.
What ever way you choose,best of luck!
-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BlueToy1
Silver Member
Figure 8's...thats how I learned too. But I'm more protective of the kids than of myself for some reason. Seems like it always took me a 'close call' to learn the limits.
I like trails 1 1/2 times the width of my tractor for trimming and plenty of room while riding. Deer & turkeys seem to love them too.
I like trails 1 1/2 times the width of my tractor for trimming and plenty of room while riding. Deer & turkeys seem to love them too.
KubotaSteve
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2003
- Messages
- 834
- Location
- eastern panhandle of WV
- Tractor
- Kubota B7800 with loaded R-4s
I agree with the width of the trails. Most of mine are 8 to 10 feet wide however some places narrow down to 5 or 6 feet due to rocks sticking up. Even at that wide the grass will grow up and lean over taking a good portion of the trail. It might not be as important for ATV's, but for walking it is. I've notice the deer in the back yard follow the trails as well as the turkeys.
Tact,
I actually called the rental yard on Saturday to inquire about a Bobcat. Unfortunately, they were closed. Thanks for the reminder. I called them after reading your post today. I may give the skidsteer a try.
Kubota Steve
I hope the kids don't get bored. I think the trail will be about 1/2 mile in length when complete. Lots of turns, but most are gentle, some gentle hills, a couple of straight aways. I'm pleased with the layout. I'm hoping to take the kids to some ORV parks occassionally to get in some long rides. But, to have a place at home for them to run around when they want will be nice (for me too).
BlueToy1,
I like that idea of giving them a sense of the limitiations of these vehicles. Not being much of a risk taker myself, I struggled with the idea of getting machines for the kids that I know can be dangerous (even lethal) if not used correctly. Unfortunately, until I can get us all scheduled for the safety course, I am responsible for all instruction. And, having no first hand experience myself, all I can do is read and share what i read with the kids. Its the blind leading the blind. So, I do appreciate hearing about practical exercises from experienced riders like yourself. Thanks.
HGM,
Don't hesitate to offer tips. I understand exactly what you are saying and I think that this would be another good exercise to improve riding skills. Appreciate it.
Riptides and KubotaSteve,
<font color="blue"> Now that is an interesting comment. Trails to wide. Personally I would want my trails two or three "mistakes" wide. </font>
That was my thought when I originally planned to have the dozer guy cut the trails. The rationale for making the trails narrow (and curvy) is that it limits speed. On wide and straight trails, the kids could go full bore and be more likely to have a high speed accident. Keeping them narrow and curvy will make them go at a more reasonable speed. As I've said before, this is all new to me and I'm relying on help from more seasoned riders. I can see merit to either arguement. From a selfish standpoint, narrow trails = fewer trees to clear = less work for daddy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BTW, KubotaSteve, Congratulations to your WV Mountaineers for a well-played game last night in the Sugar Bowl. Although they beat my GA Bulldogs, I have to admit that WV played better. It was no cheap win. From the looks of things, the Mountaineers have a bright future with several young, very talented players and a good coach.
I actually called the rental yard on Saturday to inquire about a Bobcat. Unfortunately, they were closed. Thanks for the reminder. I called them after reading your post today. I may give the skidsteer a try.
Kubota Steve
I hope the kids don't get bored. I think the trail will be about 1/2 mile in length when complete. Lots of turns, but most are gentle, some gentle hills, a couple of straight aways. I'm pleased with the layout. I'm hoping to take the kids to some ORV parks occassionally to get in some long rides. But, to have a place at home for them to run around when they want will be nice (for me too).
BlueToy1,
I like that idea of giving them a sense of the limitiations of these vehicles. Not being much of a risk taker myself, I struggled with the idea of getting machines for the kids that I know can be dangerous (even lethal) if not used correctly. Unfortunately, until I can get us all scheduled for the safety course, I am responsible for all instruction. And, having no first hand experience myself, all I can do is read and share what i read with the kids. Its the blind leading the blind. So, I do appreciate hearing about practical exercises from experienced riders like yourself. Thanks.
HGM,
Don't hesitate to offer tips. I understand exactly what you are saying and I think that this would be another good exercise to improve riding skills. Appreciate it.
Riptides and KubotaSteve,
<font color="blue"> Now that is an interesting comment. Trails to wide. Personally I would want my trails two or three "mistakes" wide. </font>
That was my thought when I originally planned to have the dozer guy cut the trails. The rationale for making the trails narrow (and curvy) is that it limits speed. On wide and straight trails, the kids could go full bore and be more likely to have a high speed accident. Keeping them narrow and curvy will make them go at a more reasonable speed. As I've said before, this is all new to me and I'm relying on help from more seasoned riders. I can see merit to either arguement. From a selfish standpoint, narrow trails = fewer trees to clear = less work for daddy. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BTW, KubotaSteve, Congratulations to your WV Mountaineers for a well-played game last night in the Sugar Bowl. Although they beat my GA Bulldogs, I have to admit that WV played better. It was no cheap win. From the looks of things, the Mountaineers have a bright future with several young, very talented players and a good coach.
BlueToy1
Silver Member
My dislikes for narrow trails are the overhanging grass/briars along the edges & with a narrow trail it would be very easy for an novice rider to side swipe a tree if our concentration waivers. Doing so causes a sudden turning (and painful) motion of the handle bars. Dont ask how I know!! As they become more comfortable with the quads, they're going to 'test the limits'. I vote to give them the extra width to test without getting hurt.
avorancher
Silver Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On wide and straight trails, the kids could go full bore and be more likely to have a high speed accident. )</font>
Sometimes I allow visitors to ride my 650 Kawasaki Quad around approx. 3 miles of dirt grove roads. Most sections are hilly with sharp dropoffs if they venture off the cleared road. There is one section about 10 ft. wide and 600 ft. long that is straight and flat and it seems that every young rider wants to test the speed of the Quad on that section. Just too hard to resist I guess. I consider it the most dangerous section of all.
Sometimes I allow visitors to ride my 650 Kawasaki Quad around approx. 3 miles of dirt grove roads. Most sections are hilly with sharp dropoffs if they venture off the cleared road. There is one section about 10 ft. wide and 600 ft. long that is straight and flat and it seems that every young rider wants to test the speed of the Quad on that section. Just too hard to resist I guess. I consider it the most dangerous section of all.
psuedofarmer
Gold Member
i have a large farm in NH. the first thing we purchased was an ATV to take advantage of the logging trails (20+ miles). in many cases, we had to 'clean' existing trails of small saplings. in other cases, we created new trails.
here's how we did it:
first, get a chain saw. use this for anything big. cut as clost to the ground as possible, paying careful attention to cut the stump flat (not angled).
second, i bought a trimmer (husquvarna) that has a rotary brush blade. beats the hand lopers on all saplings. in some cases, we decided to use the hand lopers to cut the sapling 'stumps' to ground level.
third (and probably the most important), put 'slime' in your tires. excellent, preventative measure that will protect your rubber against errant stumps, etc.
others have pointed out the safety concerns associated with ATVs. listen to all advice, and exercise extreme caution. these machines are inherently dangerous, especially for children who have the tendency to write checks their brains, bodies, and machines their riding, can't cash.
good luck - and be careful.
pf
here's how we did it:
first, get a chain saw. use this for anything big. cut as clost to the ground as possible, paying careful attention to cut the stump flat (not angled).
second, i bought a trimmer (husquvarna) that has a rotary brush blade. beats the hand lopers on all saplings. in some cases, we decided to use the hand lopers to cut the sapling 'stumps' to ground level.
third (and probably the most important), put 'slime' in your tires. excellent, preventative measure that will protect your rubber against errant stumps, etc.
others have pointed out the safety concerns associated with ATVs. listen to all advice, and exercise extreme caution. these machines are inherently dangerous, especially for children who have the tendency to write checks their brains, bodies, and machines their riding, can't cash.
good luck - and be careful.
pf
TOMMYHPX4X4
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2005
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- 2,005
- Tractor
- gator hpx 4x4
the best trail you can make is to try and not cut down any trees. me and my son made some trails on about 40 acres of property and the biggest tree we cut was about 3''. the way we did it was we drove the hpx through the woods and snaked our way around the trees . and trust me the end result was amazingthere is so many curves and difernt trees we pass that it crazy it really made a wild trail sure there are straight aways that are about 300 yards long on our trails but most of them are woody curvy trails. and everyday we walk and ride them and pass one of them big trees it brings up a story of how we had to turn the trail the other way /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif to go around the tree.the point i'm trying to make is don't move a obstical from out of your way when makin a atv trail .it only take away from the trail.
I agree. That's exactly what I did with my skid steer. I hate the thought of someone cutting down a mature tree that could have been avoided by moving over 3-4 feet. When I cleared trails through my property it turned out to be somewhat curvy, and the largest tree I had to take out was about 8" in diameter, but it was unavoidable. The rest were smaller. Be carefull and avoid the big ones.
unreconstructed
Platinum Member
Jim,
Hadn't thought of the Sawzall either. I think that sounds good in addition to the chain saw. I did not see any big trimmer blades for the Milwaukee Sawzall on the sites I looked at. I may have overlooked them. Does Milwaukee make these blades or are they from another source? Thanks for your help and a good idea.
Gary.
Hadn't thought of the Sawzall either. I think that sounds good in addition to the chain saw. I did not see any big trimmer blades for the Milwaukee Sawzall on the sites I looked at. I may have overlooked them. Does Milwaukee make these blades or are they from another source? Thanks for your help and a good idea.
Gary.
TOMMYHPX4X4
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2005
- Messages
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- gator hpx 4x4
the saws all will work great if you run a power inverter to the battery on your hpx and you got it made.for huricane katrina i ran a 20'' tv and a satellite box and a box fan for two hours at a time off my hpx batteryi did run the engine most of the time though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. but i know it will power a sawas all. i paid 75 for my inverter at wallyword it's a 750 watt.it works great. i'm putting in a second battery as we speak right now for added power.
A cordless sawsall?? Really??
I just can't see where that could be better than loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with loppers takes one second, there's no bending and then the sapling can be moved by gripping it with the loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with a cordless sawsall invloves bending over, taking 20-30s for the sawsall to cut the tree/rattle your bones, then you have to bend over again to pick up the tree and move it. THEN you have to change the battery, what, like every tenth sapling? I just don't see what it buys you. Now bringing a generator and extension cords into the woods to run a corded sawsall? Pure lunacy. (I mean that in the most positive way /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )
Brad
I just can't see where that could be better than loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with loppers takes one second, there's no bending and then the sapling can be moved by gripping it with the loppers. Cutting a one inch sapling with a cordless sawsall invloves bending over, taking 20-30s for the sawsall to cut the tree/rattle your bones, then you have to bend over again to pick up the tree and move it. THEN you have to change the battery, what, like every tenth sapling? I just don't see what it buys you. Now bringing a generator and extension cords into the woods to run a corded sawsall? Pure lunacy. (I mean that in the most positive way /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )
Brad
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Bmac,
One of the things I like about you is your ability to plan and your attention to detail. It's evident in your home that your building, and I got this feeling it will be in your trails as well.
An added benifit to hogging the saplings is no cleanup. All the material is turned to mulch!!! After hauling branches to the burn pile, you'll really appreciate this.
All the trails I made started with a pass or two with the tractor and bush hog on the back. My favorite method is to just find a thin spot in the saplings and run them down. I keep this up until I break something, or I get to the other side. Then I go over it a few more times trying to make it wider and either straighter or a more natural curve.
The little stumps and spikes left from mowing will rot away in time, and until they do, they usually don't present much of a hazard to ATV tires. Buy some slime and an air compresor. You'll end up with flats anyway, and slime works really well at keeping it to a minimum. Every one of my tires have slime in them, and it's a one time deal. Drive until you get a flat, fill with slime and wait until the next tire goes flat and repeat the process. hahahaha
Your fear of a chainsaw is well founded. They terify me as well. Everytime I use one, I think of all the things that could happen and how bad it's gonna hurt. Hopefully this fear keeps me cautious and it never happens.
Nothing will cut the trees like a chainsaw. Sawzalls are fine for cutting a limb here or there, but it's kind of silly to think you'll clear a decent sized trail with one.
In my opinion, that trail should be at least twice as wide as the four wheeler with three times the width being even better.
Chainsaws come in all sorts of sizes. One of my favorites is a little one on the end of a 12 foot pole that I use for cutting branches way up that I can't reach. It cuts right through the branches nice and fast.
For a starter chainsaw, I'd think a small one would be ideal for what you want to do. Something in the 12 inch bar range, or less. Just big enough to cut the limbs and small tree's you'll be dealing with. It will be very light and easy to control.
Just about everyone who sells chainsaws has the little ones. Just read through the brand discussions if that's important, othewise, buy from the closest supplier that your comfortable with.
You really suprised me with your reluctance to buy a trailer. I think this is a huge mistake on your part. Granted, you might not use if every day, or even once a month, but you will use it several times a year, and it will become one of those things you wont' be able to live without.
It's not just for hauling your tractor. I rarely use mine for that. How about culverts, pipe, lumber, furniture, ATV's, vehicles, plywood and just about anything else. The longer bed and lower platform make it easier to load than a pickup bed. Since you can disconnect it, you don't have to unload it right away either. I've left stuff on mine for weeks at a time to keep other areas clear that I was working on.
Look at 16 foot ones with duel axles. Mine was $900 brand new. Prices are usually pretty competitive, but do some research and compare before you buy. Like anything, some are better than others.
Good luck,
Eddie
One of the things I like about you is your ability to plan and your attention to detail. It's evident in your home that your building, and I got this feeling it will be in your trails as well.
An added benifit to hogging the saplings is no cleanup. All the material is turned to mulch!!! After hauling branches to the burn pile, you'll really appreciate this.
All the trails I made started with a pass or two with the tractor and bush hog on the back. My favorite method is to just find a thin spot in the saplings and run them down. I keep this up until I break something, or I get to the other side. Then I go over it a few more times trying to make it wider and either straighter or a more natural curve.
The little stumps and spikes left from mowing will rot away in time, and until they do, they usually don't present much of a hazard to ATV tires. Buy some slime and an air compresor. You'll end up with flats anyway, and slime works really well at keeping it to a minimum. Every one of my tires have slime in them, and it's a one time deal. Drive until you get a flat, fill with slime and wait until the next tire goes flat and repeat the process. hahahaha
Your fear of a chainsaw is well founded. They terify me as well. Everytime I use one, I think of all the things that could happen and how bad it's gonna hurt. Hopefully this fear keeps me cautious and it never happens.
Nothing will cut the trees like a chainsaw. Sawzalls are fine for cutting a limb here or there, but it's kind of silly to think you'll clear a decent sized trail with one.
In my opinion, that trail should be at least twice as wide as the four wheeler with three times the width being even better.
Chainsaws come in all sorts of sizes. One of my favorites is a little one on the end of a 12 foot pole that I use for cutting branches way up that I can't reach. It cuts right through the branches nice and fast.
For a starter chainsaw, I'd think a small one would be ideal for what you want to do. Something in the 12 inch bar range, or less. Just big enough to cut the limbs and small tree's you'll be dealing with. It will be very light and easy to control.
Just about everyone who sells chainsaws has the little ones. Just read through the brand discussions if that's important, othewise, buy from the closest supplier that your comfortable with.
You really suprised me with your reluctance to buy a trailer. I think this is a huge mistake on your part. Granted, you might not use if every day, or even once a month, but you will use it several times a year, and it will become one of those things you wont' be able to live without.
It's not just for hauling your tractor. I rarely use mine for that. How about culverts, pipe, lumber, furniture, ATV's, vehicles, plywood and just about anything else. The longer bed and lower platform make it easier to load than a pickup bed. Since you can disconnect it, you don't have to unload it right away either. I've left stuff on mine for weeks at a time to keep other areas clear that I was working on.
Look at 16 foot ones with duel axles. Mine was $900 brand new. Prices are usually pretty competitive, but do some research and compare before you buy. Like anything, some are better than others.
Good luck,
Eddie
BarryinMN
Platinum Member
I used a crawler dozer to make my trails. It has a 6' 6-way blade. Tracks are 48" outside width. The 5 ton weight is spread across the tracks for 5 psi. That said turning tracks in soft soil will tear up ground as much as a Bobcat.
I nornally cut new trails in mid winter when the ground is frozen and the dozer simply snaps off the tree trunks at ground level. Ripping out the root makes a big hole that needs filling, compacting etc. For me not worth the bother. I make the trails narrow & wiggly, the farm roads are available for the 15 mph speed tests /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Kids know the rule is they do not go past the gates. The small saplings I leave for the roadbed, larger trees I drag out for firewood.
Your trail will look rough the first year but ages quickly & gracefully. Trail maintenance for me is a kid drives while I trim with lopers up one side & down the other.
Up here we have forested areas with trails & roads that go straight for miles speed is limited to 50 mph. Snowmobiles can reach 2x the limit or more.
I nornally cut new trails in mid winter when the ground is frozen and the dozer simply snaps off the tree trunks at ground level. Ripping out the root makes a big hole that needs filling, compacting etc. For me not worth the bother. I make the trails narrow & wiggly, the farm roads are available for the 15 mph speed tests /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Kids know the rule is they do not go past the gates. The small saplings I leave for the roadbed, larger trees I drag out for firewood.
Your trail will look rough the first year but ages quickly & gracefully. Trail maintenance for me is a kid drives while I trim with lopers up one side & down the other.
Up here we have forested areas with trails & roads that go straight for miles speed is limited to 50 mph. Snowmobiles can reach 2x the limit or more.
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AL_Josh
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2005
- Messages
- 132
- Location
- Mobile, Alabama
- Tractor
- Cub LT 1046, 2000 Honda Rancher, 2004 Carolina Skiff
I wish I had a bulldozer for trails at our hunting camp but we usually just use our fourwheelers.I have welded some expanded metal on the front of my fourwheeler so I do not have to worry about stick breaking my headlights or puncturing my oil cooler. I just head out throught the woods the dirrection I want the trail. This works good for small trails but for larger trails like you want The other sugestions will be alot better. For roads we usually break out the chain saws and our tractors.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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