clearing rock

   / clearing rock #11  
I live in a province in Canada that has the nickname "The Rock". When I needed my driveway widened a couple years ago I left it to a professional dozen man. The disturbed rock I used as a base and covered with a gravel sand mix called "class A" which I compacted. Voilà, my new driveway.
 
   / clearing rock
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Okay.

Even though I would love to be able to do it myself, I think I'll either go with a dozer or just add crushed rock or caliche (sp??) on top and let it compact (or both). It's a lot cheaper to do that than to replace the FEL or repair the damage to the tractor. :eek: I really don't want to elevate the road unless I have to just because I don't want to mess up any natural drainage characteristics that the soil has.

Thanks for the input.

Jerry in Texas
 
   / clearing rock #13  
Those look to be basketball sized and smaller rocks (?) .

I'd just lay some geo-texile down and then lay the driveway stone on top and be done.

Use a box blade or back blade to ditch next to the drive to channel water away.

jb
 
   / clearing rock #14  
Jarbill,
From the looks of your territory, I feel like I know the area well... I grew up in country looking much like that.

I'd suggest NOT digging up stuff... only where you need to cut something off to make it flat... In our area, we just added river gravel and drove on it. the area of the photo is flat....

Much depends on what use you are intending... if it is supposed to be a 50 mph road into your place, then it kinda needs to be smooth... if you have a place where you can get what is called road base, then I'd just install that. You will be surprised how smooth it will become in a short while.

If the rock is as close to the ground as I think it is from the trees, then for a ranch road I'd just drive on it and add road base where experience tells you extra traction is needed.

YOu are set with the tractor you have.... get a toothbar... you will never regret it... and, it WILL keep the lip of your FEL bucket in good shape. It is ENTIRELY likely that somewhere on your place will be material that you can dig up and use on your road...

So, I think the decision should be based on how much you want to do yourself and how much you want to pay to have done... and the schedule you have to get the job completed. Hmm.. maybe money is a factor too.... typically is for me.
 
   / clearing rock
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Hey, Texas John:

I think I am going to get the toothbar. That seems like the best tool for the money there is out there. And, like you said, I don't want to ruin the bucket edge.

Thanks for the info.

Jerry in Texas:)
 
   / clearing rock #16  
Good to know. YOu will not be sorry you got the toothbar. There have been numerous TBN discussions about how to attach. Not to hard, drill holes in side of bucket, bolt in. I filled slight gap between bar tabs and bucket side with washers. I carry wrenches on tractor so I can remove bar if I want to.... VERY seldom do so. I discovered my local John Deer dealer has numerous bars in stock... from JD but one was just a smidgen shorter than what I needed (about .5 inches) and it was super, super heavy (130 lbs or so) and he sold it to me at a better price than I could buy on the net and have shipped in... and I got to transport it home and make sure it fit before purchase... can't beat that! HOpe you find one soon... many, many reasons it is handy.... increases usefulness of FEL about 50% in my opinion..more capacity, easy to hook chains on, etc. etc.
 

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