CK3510se Won't Start - Electrical(?)

[LMychajluk]

I have a pre-DEF CK3510se with ~100hrs on it.

Last week, I put a new battery in it. In the process, the bolt on the + battery terminal clamp (which was a little corroded) broke. I didn't have a bolt that would fit at the time, so I put the clamp on w/o a bolt, started it and used it for less than an hour or so, and put it away. It was running fine.

This morning, I started it and pulled it out of the shed (it was running for ~2min), and turned it off to replace the bolt. When I went to start it again, the sounds in the 'on' position didn't sound normal and it wouldn't turn over. I didn't notice any unusual dash lights at first because it was in the sun, but then I saw Err 001, 002, 006 (and sometimes 007) come up on the LCD.

I'm thinking I must've accidently shorted the positive to the chassis in the process of installing the bolt (? - don't know what else could've happened...), but I checked all the fuses I could find, incl. + Battery Terminal, Fuse box on right side in front of dash, and the fuses in the pic under that Fuse box. The left one has a 'Battery' icon on the cover, and I think these are the 'Main Fuses' as indicated in the manual, and they seem to still be OK. I looked for additional fuses near the alternator, but didn't see anything that looked like a fuse or fuse holder.

With the key off, I can turn on the hazards and hear a bit of a click behind the dash in the pattern of the hazard lights, but the lights themselves don't light - so, maybe some relay got fried? Other than the LCD and Oil Pressure light, I don't seem to get any power - turning the key to 'Start' does nothing - not even a click.

Are there any other fuses or anything that I may be missing?

FWIW, I called the dealer to get their take, and the guy on the phone didn't even seem to think that there were fuses on this machine.

Thanks for any other insights.

-Lee

 

[tacticalturnip]

No CK uses DEF; I presume you're referring to the DPF? Which your machine would have.

As for the fellow at your dealer, that blows my mind; I'd of asked to speak with someone else in that moment.

Does he also think it's a 6 volt system with a hand-crank?!

 

[LMychajluk]

Sorry... I thought they introduced DEF on the later models. Mine was from '18 or so... It does have DPF.

Also, I mentioned the fuse on the + terminal. I think that may be an accessory connection and not OEM. Maybe to the 3rd function switch/solenoid, so chances are it's not related to the problem.

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

I would suspect the cable at the ground point is corroded.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I would suspect the cable at the ground point is corroded.

Given the evil and vindictive nature of electrical gremlins, always try the easy thing first.

 

[LMychajluk]

I would suspect the cable at the ground point is corroded.

You mean the one from the - Terminal on the battery? (Not a cab model, so no grounding straps from the cab.) I'll take a closer look, but this cable seemed to be in pretty good shape, though there was the bit of corrosion on the + Terminal.

 

[Coyote_CS2220]

You mean the one from the - Terminal on the battery? (Not a cab model, so no grounding straps from the cab.) I'll take a closer look, but this cable seemed to be in pretty good shape, though there was the bit of corrosion on the + Terminal.

Corrosion on the +ve terminal, in my experience, is pretty odd. I have only seen corrosion on the -ve post or cable connections.

Whenever doing electrical repairs always remove the ground first (black) and when reconnecting always connect the +ve (red) first. "The one in the red dress is always first to the party and the last to leave."

Simple stuff first:
1) do a current draw/voltage check (using the red dress rule) on the battery. 12+V and sustained 800+amps over 30seconds???? If unsure swap out the battery with a known good one.
2) Terminals and leads are corrosion free (give them the sandpaper treatment) and tight?
3) Fuses are all good - pull them out to check and replace.
4) If you find a fuse blown trace the wires to find any missing insulation causing the short.
5) Then get the multimeter out and start checking for voltage at the ignition and work your way thru the relays to the starter.


Ya, I would go back and disconnect the battery and start with the simple stuff first.

If you have corrosion on the battery terminals check the alternator voltage to the battery. If it is over 14.5V or less than 12.5V you have an alternator issue. Less than 12.5V check the belt tightness and sand/tighten the wire connections. An alternation should charge at 13.5V. Corrosion can often be cause by a 1) degrading battery 2) loose connections 3) an alternator issue.

 

[LMychajluk]

Thanks for the tips.

The old, original battery was going after ~5yrs, so I pulled it last fall (the tractor is at a seasonal family home) and put a new one, so the battery is brand new (2 weeks old). It shows 12.7v on a meter, but I'll pull it and load test it, but I don't have my load tester w/ me this weekend. It started the tractor a few times since I installed it, but maybe it's a dud? (Autozone Duralast Gold, fwiw).Per your comments, that may have been source of the corrosion(?). It doesn't get wet much or used in inclement weather, and lives in the shed, so rust/corrosion aren't usually a problem w/ it or any of our other equipment.

Once I verify the battery, I'll go through the fuses again. If that still doesn't work, I guess I'll have to figure out how to test the relays and switches...

 

[Midniteoyl]

Pull the battery cables off while you are looking around and let it sit for more than 10mins. Maybe it'll reset the ECM. And actually ohm out all the fuses, dont just eyeball them. Better yet is to check the voltage on both sides if you can.

 

[Williy]

Ohm your cables as you can't see what's under the
coating

willy