CK30 FEL Won't drop

[Leithal]

So I was down at the creek this morning pushing around some brush and all of a sudden my loader wouldn't go down. It goes up fine and the bucket pivots both ways as normal. I thought a line might have been disconnected so I looked underneath and found what you see in the attached image. Hopefully this is my problem and that it won't be to expensive. BTW the joy stick didn't want to move forward either. Any advice would be great.

 

[Alien]

Happened to me a couple of times. Once I had squashed a pipe on the bucket and the second time a stick had released a hydraulic chuck plug in the valve block and the hose was just sitting in there looking like it was still hooked up.

 

[VictorW]

I had to take both of my caps, the silver cup in your picture, off for cleaning, lubing, and re-sealing because moisture caused some corrosion. The end of the spool in the valve block has to go into that cup when lowering the fel. The spool pulls out of the cup when raising. I'm sure that is why the joy stick won't move correctly and not allowing the fel to drop. That cap also has three small steel balls in the bottom that allow the spool to lock in for the float function. The other cap is for the bucket curl function and doesn't have the three balls. I remember a few years ago, a member lost the float lock function. He removed that cap to find corrosion and the three balls destroyed. When he priced a new cap and if memory serves me correct, it was @$200. I hope I'm wrong.

 

[Leithal]

Well I've got it in my shop right now with some 4x4s under the bucket just in case. I guess I can take loose the qdc and release the pressure so I can lower it. But do I need to completely take out the joystick valve or can I just r/r the cup.

 

[VictorW]

You can just remove/replace the cup from the valve block. Two allen head bolts. You'll see the end of the spool with a spring attached sticking out of the valve block about an inch. There are seals in the valve block that seal the spool so no fluid will leak out. When I cleaned my cups, greased liberally the inside of the cup and spring on the spool, I put a very thin film of silicone seal on the flat mating surface of the cup to the valve block to keep moisture out. Mine started to get stiff the second Winter from new. It's been eight years since then and all is good.

 

[Leithal]

Looks Like I Need Item 11 From This diagram. Just wanted to make sure before I ordered it.

 

[Leithal]

I was able to kinda shift the cup back in place and lower the lowder. Got the cup off and am going to see if I can have a friend weld up the crack, kinda doubt it since it's cast aluminum but he's one of the best repair welders I know and figure it's worth a shot.

 

[VictorW]

I hope he can weld it. It holds no hydraulic pressure. Just the pressure from the spring to center the spool and when you push it into float. #11 is it from your diagram. Good luck.

 

[Rustyiron]

There really is an opportunity for someone to make & sell tractor "under armor". It doesn't take much on today's tractors to have a little stick cause expensive repairs. Come to think of it, with (basically) all things being equal between tractor brands, other than your favorite color, a factory option for a skid pan might give one "color" an advantage over another. It could be a simple dealer installed option or just a p/n available to the customer.
But then the "bean counters" prolly have it figured out that they are ahead selling parts and service/repair work for damage that they know is going to happen.

 

[Coyote machine]

I'd try JB Weld before trying to actually weld that piece. I doubt there is enough metal to take the heat of welding, whereas the chemical bond of the JBWeld would likely hold it together....

 

[1965]

There really is an opportunity for someone to make & sell tractor "under armor". It doesn't take much on today's tractors to have a little stick cause expensive repairs. Come to think of it, with (basically) all things being equal between tractor brands, other than your favorite color, a factory option for a skid pan might give one "color" an advantage over another. It could be a simple dealer installed option or just a p/n available to the customer.
But then the "bean counters" prolly have it figured out that they are ahead selling parts and service/repair work for damage that they know is going to happen.

I was just looking at where under armor could be bolted on on mine. I think it looks like a good project for the warm weather, Some 1.5 inch angle iron bolted front to back in a couple areas would provide a lot of protection to the numerous lines and linkages. Good idea Rustyiron!

 

[Rustyiron]

I was just looking at where under armor could be bolted on on mine. I think it looks like a good project for the warm weather, Some 1.5 inch angle iron bolted front to back in a couple areas would provide a lot of protection to the numerous lines and linkages. Good idea Rustyiron!

Do a search here, there have been several threads, including using an old plastic truck "bed liner".
I did a post, and Ovrszd started the first one that I saw.

 

[Leithal]

Well I finally got it fixed. Thought I'd share a few pics of the damage, the repair and how good it looks when it's right. As far as the repair, Coyote Machine was absolutely right and I actually knew better. Cast anything is hard to weld, but aluminum is horrible, but we tried anyway. It tacked OK and got it pulled back in but then blew outthe inside. I smoothed it all back out with some JB weld, let it cure and sanded. Painted, lubed up and put back on. Works like a champ and the float operation even seems a lot smoother.

 

[VictorW]

Nice job and it looks good as new. You probably had enough fun for a while but when you get a chance, pull the other cup off and take a look. I bet it's getting a little corrosion. Clean, grease, and seal like your picture and the bucket roll should be good for a long time.

 

[Leithal]

Well crap, dang thing broke again. Guess I'll have to buy one this time. Anyone know where to get one aside from the dealer? Who makes this valve body anyway?

 

[VictorW]

Sorry to hear that. I thought your repair was going to work. That time a member posted a few years ago looking for the cap, he said he was trying tractor junkyards but wasn't having much luck. I guess our tractors aren't old enough yet. I'm sure Kioti outsourced these just like the BH valves and injector pump, but I haven't seen anybody post a manufacture name. Never looked at mine close enough to see if there was a company mark on it.