CK 20 cab installation

kiotiguy1958 · Oct 29, 2013

Does anyone have a detailed set of instructions for installing a cab on a CK 20 HST. Just bought a new cab a few days ago and have been struggling with the installation. The instructions that came with the cab are vague at best and images are small. It comes with a ton of padding and different types of material and it's very confusing. I removed all of the parts that the book says to remove but if you use all of the padding that comes with the package, the bolts and existing parts do not fit properly now. The dealer advised me to use all of the materials or the noise would be loud. I'm about to say the heck with the cab and use it without it due to the work involved in using all the materials. They want foam and then padding and then black rubber over that again and now the bolts or the panels you remove to put all this in, will not fit properly. Also, they don't say what to put on first in the instructions. My thinking is that the black padding would be the last thing to cover the grey padding and the foam or am I wrong.. and they don't say to remove the existing rubber mats and put this padding on the floor and then put the factory mats over that I think if one does this, the factory rubber mats will not fit like everything else you remove and re-install. Any help would be appreciated.

kiotiken · Oct 30, 2013

Sorry, I don't have instructions, my dealer installed the cab on my CK30. I'd stick with it and absolutely use all the sound proofing material they include. The end result is the cab is quieter than other 3rd party cabs, my JD 955 had a JDP cab and your ears bleed in it. Your CK20 comfort cab should be pretty good, but still to loud to enjoy the radio IMO. I paid $1000 for installation and my dealer struggled with it and had to come back to fix it. They complained about the instructions as well. I ended up talking to a couple dealers here on TBN and they sent me pictures of what it should look like and my dealer used those pictures to fix it. They had used some of the insulation incorrectly as well.

Here's my review of the cab, there are pictures from my cab and one other members cab. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/230081-new-comfort-cab-ck30-review-3.html

Here are the pictures the dealer/member on TBN sent me that my dealer used as reference.

kiotiguy1958 · Oct 30, 2013

Thank you so much for the reply. Those pictures do help. It's easier to look at pictures versus trying to read instructions that are vague at best. I called the dealer back and they said much of the wording in the instructions are lost in translation. I'm going to have another go at it this evening and I hope it goes better this time. The dealer also wanted 1300.00 to do the install and while that's a lot of money, it sure would save a lot of trouble. They told me they even have problems doing it and they do it all the time. Thanks again..... I also think that they give too much material and you never end up using all of it. I'm thinking there will be a small amount left when the job is done and the dealer said they usually have a small amount left over as well.

kiotiken · Oct 31, 2013

Glad the pictures help. How did it go last night, any progress. It is a nice cab once you finally get it installed, it will be well worth the effort. My dealer told me it was going to take two guys up to a day and a half to install, and they'd done a bunch of them before, so take your time and be patient. While you're working on it, I'd install a 12V power outlet at the same time. A small fan with the windows open is all the cab needs to stay cool in the summer. Good luck.

kiotiguy1958 · Oct 31, 2013

Hi again. Yes, the pictures did help and thank you again. However, I ran into another problem -- well actually two problems. One I finally got the cab to sit on the tractor but the front mounts do not line up. The horrible instructions that come with it mostly only list the parts with small pictures and no description at all. So, it's really hit and miss as to how to put those front mounts on. After many, many tries last evening and again today, still no go. The back line up okay but not the front. They want you to use metal spacers and then mount the cab mounts to them and since there are many different holes to pick from, it's hit and miss as to getting the right ones. They don't say in the instructions which holes to use. After many hours, I gave up this evening. Also, now that the cab is sitting on the tractor, the hydraulics have no where to fit now. They just hang there. I had to remove the mount that held them beside the loader arms and the mount will not go on now with the cab there. I'm not sure what to do with them. I have never been so frustrated with anything in my life as this. One would think that Kioti would give decent instructions and not that vague paper that's included. So now, I have no idea on how to use the front mounts nor what to do with the hydraulics. I still have to do the electrical and the heat pipes too. This is three days now and no end in sight. I truly wish I had not bothered with the cab and left it alone and saved almost 6000.00 and a lot of frustration. I only hope no one else had to go through this. To top it off, my dealer is over three hours away and is of little help. I am a stubborn guy by nature but I think that's about all I can take with this set up. I have a half-a-mind to sell the works just like it is. This is my third tractor and second Kioti but if I ever buy another and want a cab, it will be installed before I buy it.

grm61 · Oct 31, 2013

Tell them it doesn't fit.
Get a refund.
Trade in tractor for a DK series Cab

kiotiken · Nov 1, 2013

Frustrating, but don't give up. Not sure exactly where you're located, but if you're going to be using your tractor for snow removal, especially blowing snow, you really really really want a cab! I got help for my dealer from a couple dealers here on TBN. I'd suggest you send a PM to Tony Lavoie and see if he has any tips for you. I'd also give Kioti a call and see if they offer any support and of course I'd be asking my dealer what the deal was with the front mounts.

As far as the hydraulic lines go, there is a kit you need to buy and install if your tractor has a loader. Since they pretty much offer free loaders on all CK's 11.5 months of the year, I'm not sure why it's a separate thing, but it is. You need to ask your dealer about it.

You'll forget all about your 3 days of frustration when you're clearing snow at night in the dead of winter wearing a T shirt. Here's my son clearing our rink in the middle of January. He never made it more than 5 minutes last year!

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 1, 2013

Hi again Ken,
Some progress today. I finally found out from the dealer (who called Kioti) that you don't use the spacers if you have a loader on the tractor. The instructions do not say that. I guess they want you to try and try to figure that out on your own. So now, the cab is bolted down and securely on the tractor both front and back. Also, they don't tell you that you must reverse the hoses. In other words, you take them apart at the quick couplers outside and off the bottom of the tractor and reverse them putting the angled ends under the tractor versus being outside by the loader arms and when you do this, the mount on that side will fit without using the spacer. Another thing the dealer found out by talking to Kioti. And thanks to you, I now know that there is a kit that you use to mount the hydraulic hoses in a different place that is supposed to come with the cab and did not in my case - the dealer is sending that to me so I'm very thankful that you mentioned that in your previous post. Now, just when you feel you're over the hardest parts, there is no section in the instructions to tell you where to hook up the heater hoses or the electrical. I hate to keep asking but would you have any idea where those connections are made on the engine? If I can find those spots under the hood to make the heat and electrical connections, I would be done with it. I looked today and I can't see where any of it goes on. No heat and no power in there would be worse than having no cab at all. I can't see out the windows because they are steamed up. I know this, that this is something that I would never tackle again. That being said, I know it would be easier now after doing it. Also, decent instructions would have saved many many hours and a ton of frustration. Thank God for you guys here. People like me would be lost without you.

murphy1244 · Nov 1, 2013

Must have pictures when your done.

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 1, 2013

I will post some pictures just as soon as I get this finished Murph. I have never looked forward this much to having a job finished. If I can get the details as to where the connections are made for the heat and the electrical, I should have it finished some time tomorrow - here's hoping I can anyway....

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 1, 2013

Oh and I just noticed Ken, you asked where I'm located. I live in Cape Breton Nova Scotia Canada and we get tonnes of snow here in the winter. We have had snow already -- just two days ago.

kiotiken · Nov 1, 2013

kiotiguy1958 said:
Hi again Ken,
Some progress today. I finally found out from the dealer (who called Kioti) that you don't use the spacers if you have a loader on the tractor. The instructions do not say that. I guess they want you to try and try to figure that out on your own. So now, the cab is bolted down and securely on the tractor both front and back. Also, they don't tell you that you must reverse the hoses. In other words, you take them apart at the quick couplers outside and off the bottom of the tractor and reverse them putting the angled ends under the tractor versus being outside by the loader arms and when you do this, the mount on that side will fit without using the spacer. Another thing the dealer found out by talking to Kioti. And thanks to you, I now know that there is a kit that you use to mount the hydraulic hoses in a different place that is supposed to come with the cab and did not in my case - the dealer is sending that to me so I'm very thankful that you mentioned that in your previous post. Now, just when you feel you're over the hardest parts, there is no section in the instructions to tell you where to hook up the heater hoses or the electrical. I hate to keep asking but would you have any idea where those connections are made on the engine? If I can find those spots under the hood to make the heat and electrical connections, I would be done with it. I looked today and I can't see where any of it goes on. No heat and no power in there would be worse than having no cab at all. I can't see out the windows because they are steamed up. I know this, that this is something that I would never tackle again. That being said, I know it would be easier now after doing it. Also, decent instructions would have saved many many hours and a ton of frustration. Thank God for you guys here. People like me would be lost without you.

Man I wish I had pictures of all of it for you, but I never took any under the hood. I never took note of exactly how the dealer did it, I traded the tractor a few months after it was done, never even changed the oil after the cab was installed. I do have a little advice for when you do figure out where to splice in and tee off from, install a shut off valve to the line running to the cab. My JDP cab and my factory DK45 cab have both leaked in the heat exchanger and you also don't need to be circulating hot coolant through the cab in the summer.

I love Nova Scotia, I hope to visit again soon. You're going to really enjoy that cab in some of the weather you get. I'm in Ottawa and it's been a really balmy fall so far but it's time to pull out the blower and get it serviced and touched up, I seem to have a hydraulic leak somewhere.

mpham · Nov 2, 2013

The top hose goes on this adapter plate screwed between the flanges.

mpham · Nov 2, 2013

Bottom connection is made by cutting bottom hose and installing tee. Mine is a non factory Curtis cab.

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 2, 2013

Thank you so much for the pictures. This will show me where to install the heat hoses - there was no T in the kit - I wonder if I can use any T or does it have to be a Kioti part? Also, if you know where the electrical connections are made, that would be great as well. My instructions do not say where to put the cables for electrical or the heat hoses. Thanks again...

mpham · Nov 2, 2013

The tee on mine looks home made. My electrical connections come straight off the battery terminals with fused and breaker wires.
Will try to get some pics if I can find some time this weekend.

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 2, 2013

I did manage to get the electrical done today. Also the heat pipes are in place but they hook up differently than yours do on your kioti. There was no T needed according to the dealer. You just remove a small hose that connects to the water pump and one other place by the thermostat and connect each hose from the cab to those two places. The electrical on mine connects to the alternator. That being said, one of the signal lights does not flash now on the back and one of the park lights does not work. No idea what's causing that. When you turn the signal light on, you can hear the flasher going very fast but no light. The one on the other side works normally. The park light does not work on the one that flashes normally but the one that does not flash, the park light works on that one. As for the heat set up, all the pipes are hooked up correctly by the dealers instructions but there is no heat. Only cold air -- I suspect that there is air in the hoses but that's only a guess, Anyone have any idea what would cause there to be no heat? Air lock is the only thing I can think of - there are no kinks in the pipes but the hoses are not even getting warm. Yet the water in the radiator is hot. My thinking is that the hoses are new and if there was no water in them or the core in the cab, and air is in there instead, the water will not flow because of that - or am I wrong on that way of thinking... any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hill Billy Bob · Nov 3, 2013

Are you sure the heater control valve, located on the ceiling of your cab, is in the open position? If so, your problem is trapped air, and if your radiator cap is latched securely, the air has no way out. Run for a while with cap loose, air in system should purge. Keep your eye on overflow tank, more coolant will probably be needed.

I too, installed my cab myself, it is a job, but the end result is well worth it. Spent hours reading and re-reading instruction book, and 4 or 5 days to complete the installation. Didn't encounter all of the problems you have, my dealer made sure I had all needed parts before I left his site (hyd hose relocation kit, etc).

You will like your cab when winter gets here, it will make snow plowing actually enjoyable....Hill Billy Bob

kiotiguy1958 · Nov 3, 2013

The heat is now working - there was air in the system. Yes, it's quite a job and there were several things missing from the cab kit but I hope the dealer is going to replace them for me. The only thing that's not working now is the rear wiper. I don't seem to be getting any power from the switch to the rear. I even managed to get the signal lights fixed today as well. Here are a few pics of the finished cab. Thanks everyone for the replies.