CK 20 cab installation

   / CK 20 cab installation #21  
Good job...+1 on the looks great....I like that old 9370 Corn Binder in the background too. Bought one new back in February 1988, ran it for 9 years before trading it in for another a new one. It was a good ole truck, never once left me stranded on the side of the road. Enjoy that new cab...Hill Billy Bob
 
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   / CK 20 cab installation #22  
The heat is now working - there was air in the system. Yes, it's quite a job and there were several things missing from the cab kit but I hope the dealer is going to replace them for me. The only thing that's not working now is the rear wiper. I don't seem to be getting any power from the switch to the rear. I even managed to get the signal lights fixed today as well. Here are a few pics of the finished cab. Thanks everyone for the replies.View attachment 344330View attachment 344331

Great job. Enjoy the fruits of your labour.
 
   / CK 20 cab installation #23  
Looks great. I would think about one if it had AC. I think I will need a bigger tractor for that.
 
   / CK 20 cab installation
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I decided yesterday to scrap the idea of using a winch to rotate the chute on the blower. I had tried several times to make it work but it would not turn properly for me. It would keep binding up and almost snapped the chute the last time I tried. I called the dealer to order a rear remote for the tractor. I was going to install it myself. I did not think it was that much of a job -- not considering the trouble I had doing the cab. He tells me that in order to install the rear remote, I would have to lift the cab off the tractor. That is not going to happen after the five days it took to get it on there. I thought only the seat would have to come out and once you remove the panel under the seat, you would have access to everything I need to install the remote. He said I would not get the pipes in there without lifting the cab. That makes no sense to me -- I mean, if you had to remove the cab, that would say that the pipes run under the cab and if so, how you would you get the cab back on? I'm sure the pipes run under the tractor under the inner fender - or am I wrong? Anyone know if this is true?
 
   / CK 20 cab installation #25  
I don't know about your CK, but I just had a second remote added to my DK40. The valves are on the right, the outlets are on the left. The lines run from right to left after they leave the valve and then head back to the outlets. They did have to remove the seat platform to install the lines and 2nd remote.
 
   / CK 20 cab installation #26  
I was debating adding a second remote to my CK30 when I was buying the cab. When I got the tractor back from my dealer after he installed the cab, he had made the decision for me. He added the second remote, he said they'd have to remove the cab to install the remote if I wanted to add it later. I have no idea how much you'd have to raise the cab to do the work, but I'm sure you wouldn't have to take it right off and start from scratch. You'll have the same issue if you ever need to split the tractor, I had that done on my CK30 too, thankfully before I had the cab installed.

If you do it, don't add one, add two.
 
   / CK 20 cab installation
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I finally got the winch to work but not using any cable. I will post a few pictures to show how I did it. I can thank my dealer for this suggestion. I thought of doing it this way but he did the welding for me. It works great and the nice part is no cables. I have seen a few set up with cables but this is the first time I've seen it done this way. This way to me is better since there are no cables to deal with. I will go with the two rear remotes, but not until spring now. winch.jpgwinch1.jpg
 

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