Check your motor mounts

[kattywumpus]

Make sure you use red lock-tite when installing them.

Red lock-tite not the blue?! The last time I used red lock-tite on a large bolt I had to use a OA torch to loosen it up for removal!! I use more blue now, but if blue problematic for these I guess I will reconsider.

 

[IslandTractor]

Red lock-tite not the blue?! The last time I used red lock-tite on a large bolt I had to use a OA torch to loosen it up for removal!! I use more blue now, but if blue problematic for these I guess I will reconsider.

I presume red as blue loosens more easily with heat and we are talking about the engine block.

 

[JoelD]

I presume red as blue loosens more easily with heat and we are talking about the engine block.

I'll be going through my machine next time out

Joel

Thanks for the post the picture left an impression

 

[IslandTractor]

Update:

First, a thanks to the mechanics and parts guys at Wallace Tractor for advice and a replacement bolt. I had a little trouble getting the replacement bolt started but at their suggestion cleaning it up a bit with a 14mm die solved that problem nicely. Thanks guys.

Second, as the Wallace team pointed out, the loose/missing bolt was not a motor mount but rather the loader support bracket attach point to the motor.

Third, on review of the KL401 owners manual there are clear instructions to retorque those bolts every 25 hours. Oops. I wonder how many of us are doing that. Until now I certainly hadn't even looked at the manual in oh maybe 225hrs or to be precise on the delivery day that Rick drove it off his trailer.

Fourth, the manual lists the appropriate torque specs. However it is a real btch to get 120 ft pounds of torque while on your knees and reaching under the tractor with one arm.

Fifth, use red locktite

Sixth, I promise to retorque these and other bolts at least every time I change the oil and I'll try to remember every 25hrs.

 

[kattywumpus]

Update:

First, a thanks to the mechanics and parts guys at Wallace Tractor for advice and a replacement bolt. I had a little trouble getting the replacement bolt started but at their suggestion cleaning it up a bit with a 14mm die solved that problem nicely. Thanks guys.

Second, as the Wallace team pointed out, the loose/missing bolt was not a motor mount but rather the loader support bracket attach point to the motor.

Third, on review of the KL401 owners manual there are clear instructions to retorque those bolts every 25 hours. Oops. I wonder how many of us are doing that. Until now I certainly hadn't even looked at the manual in oh maybe 225hrs or to be precise on the delivery day that Rick drove it off his trailer.

Fourth, the manual lists the appropriate torque specs. However it is a real btch to get 120 ft pounds of torque while on your knees and reaching under the tractor with one arm.

Fifth, use red locktite

Sixth, I promise to retorque these and other bolts at least every time I change the oil and I'll try to remember every 25hrs.

I have consulted the owner manual several times but somehow missed the 25 hours retorque task. Red locktite it is.

 

[JoelD]

If using red loctite would retorqueing break the loctite?

Does loctite dry to crispy dry or retain some flexibility?

I'm glad this post continues as I forgot again this weekend to got through my bolts

 

[IslandTractor]

If using red loctite would retorqueing break the loctite?

Does loctite dry to crispy dry or retain some flexibility?

I'm glad this post continues as I forgot again this weekend to got through my bolts

Good questions Joel.

I suppose that if retorquing causes some movement of the bolt then perhaps it would be best to pull it out, clean it, and put on more loctite. In theory the bolt should not move though and therefore one would not need to go through this scenario.

What I might do is retorque the bolts to slightly less than I tightened them originally (the manual has a range of acceptable torque) and figure that if it moves with the lower range torque setting then clearly the loctite did not hold anyway so I might as well remove the bolt and start over.

 

[JoelD]

Your plan makes perfect sense to me

Loose bolts can do a lot of damage that is not easily repaired

Joel

 

[mj007]

While greasing today I noted a missing motor mount bolt. I checked the other three on that side and all were loose. The other side was all right.

Mine is a DK40se with just over 200 hrs but I'd imagine this is an issue for all tractors. I routinely check BH subframe mounts with each oil change but had not checked motor mounts before. I will now.

I don't know if your loader is designed the same as the one on my CK20HST (KL120) but if it has the tie across the loader uprights or 'stanchions' then you might want to resolve the issue that I ran into BEFORE you retighten the loader uprights where they bolt to the casting.

My CK20HST loader got 'unlevel' after about 30 hours of use ..... turns out that the stanchion mount on the left side had a stripped bolt where it contacts the trans. casting. My dealer took it in and re-tapped the bolt hole to the next size larger .... end of problem .... kind of. At about 40 hours I removed the connecting member between the stanchions (over the back edge of the hood) to install one with extra length for installation of an EZ-GO golf car sunshade .... the bolts immediately 'bound up' and had to be screwed out, even though the holes in the stanchions and connecting member are oversized for clearance on the bolts .... the holes on the stanchions were about a bolt hole off (too close together) for the connector hole spacing so I adjusted for that when I made the new piece. It seems as though Kioti got the holes off for the width of the FEL frame/trans. casting causing a mismatch which may have resulted in the stripped casting hole upon initial assembly ....
You can see this connecting member in the photo pretty well ....
CK20S EZ-GO - TractorByNet.com Photo Gallery

 

[twigpig]

When I bought my CK30 used several years ago a couple of the front loader mount bolts were missing and some were very loose. I ordered a complete set of bolts but I could not torque the front lower ones all the way because the holes were partially stripped. I put red locktight on them and torqued them as far as I could without stripping them further. I haven't torqued them again and so far they appear to be holding. I am reluctant to drill out and retap because the holes are rather shallow and I don't want to chance drilling too far into the motor. I occasionally check for movement there. So far I haven't seen any. I'm afraid if I retorque the problem bolts they will just strip out more. I am also concerned that a tap will not be able to rethread to the bottom of the relatively shallow hole since taps are tapered.