Check your motor mounts

[IslandTractor]

So far I haven't seen any. I'm afraid if I retorque the problem bolts they will just strip out more. I am also concerned that a tap will not be able to rethread to the bottom of the relatively shallow hole since taps are tapered.

There are two types of taps in a full set. Tapered and bottom taps. Bottom taps thread all the way. You could start with tapered and then finish with the bottom tap.

 

[jlsanborn]

My $0.02,
Red Loctite should be considered near permanent or in some cases permanent when correctly applied. I worked for an equipment manufacturer for a number of years and there were a few yahoos that would put red on just about everything they screwed together. I remembered their names when I was in BFE in the middle of the night pouring the heat to some poor little grade 5, 1/4-20s just to remove a guard! I've gotten pretty good at extracting screws too, after some other yahoo finished twisting the hex off of one of those. Get a bunch on a big screw and/or fine threads and you could end up having a real good time. I've seen hydraulic cylinders with threaded heads that "theoretically" were rebuildable, but "realistically" may as well have been welded because the mfg assembled with red.
I use blue on a lot of stuff, but always CLEAN the mating parts - Loctite 7649 primer and compressed air.
With respect to the loader mounts - If they are problematic and always require re-torque, then I'd for sure put blue on there. I don't think I'd disassemble and reapply each look-see though. If the blue doesn't help hold them, then it's probably just a poor design and you'll just have to live with the occasional re-torque and eventually thread repair.
If the threads in the blind hole are hosed, consider a heli-coil before oversizing. Is the material cast? If you're worried about drilling too deep, flatten the very tip of your drill on the grinder. (I've got a great document that'll help teach you how to get the point back).
Keep the change!

 

[BJN644]

My $0.02,
Red Loctite should be considered near permanent or in some cases permanent when correctly applied. I worked for an equipment manufacturer for a number of years and there were a few yahoos that would put red on just about everything they screwed together. I remembered their names when I was in BFE in the middle of the night pouring the heat to some poor little grade 5, 1/4-20s just to remove a guard! I've gotten pretty good at extracting screws too, after some other yahoo finished twisting the hex off of one of those. Get a bunch on a big screw and/or fine threads and you could end up having a real good time. I've seen hydraulic cylinders with threaded heads that "theoretically" were rebuildable, but "realistically" may as well have been welded because the mfg assembled with red.
I use blue on a lot of stuff, but always CLEAN the mating parts - Loctite 7649 primer and compressed air.
With respect to the loader mounts - If they are problematic and always require re-torque, then I'd for sure put blue on there. I don't think I'd disassemble and reapply each look-see though. If the blue doesn't help hold them, then it's probably just a poor design and you'll just have to live with the occasional re-torque and eventually thread repair.
If the threads in the blind hole are hosed, consider a heli-coil before oversizing. Is the material cast? If you're worried about drilling too deep, flatten the very tip of your drill on the grinder. (I've got a great document that'll help teach you how to get the point back).
Keep the change!

I agree, I twisted wrenches for 20 years and always considered red loctite permanent. It even says on the package that heat is required for disassemble. Blue should be fine, and you'll be glad if you ever have to take it apart, because those loader bolts won't be fun to heat with a torch.

 

[IslandTractor]

I agree, I twisted wrenches for 20 years and always considered red loctite permanent. It even says on the package that heat is required for disassemble. Blue should be fine, and you'll be glad if you ever have to take it apart, because those loader bolts won't be fun to heat with a torch.

Point taken but the loader mount bolts are tapped into the engine block. Engine blocks get pretty hot though hopefully not more than 250 degrees F or so. Doesn't that affect whether blue or red loctite would work?

 

[kattywumpus]

Point taken but the loader mount bolts are tapped into the engine block. Engine blocks get pretty hot though hopefully not more than 250 degrees F or so. Doesn't that affect whether blue or red loctite would work?

From Locktite website:
"What is the thermal resistance requirement for the assembly? If the heat resistance in excess of 300°F (150°C) is needed, it is recommended that Loctite® 272 Threadlocker to be used."

272 Loctite is one of the red threadlockers.

"What exactly does happen to the threadlocker material between the threads when I heat the assembly with a torch?
A. Threadlockers are thermoset polymers, which means they will not melt like typical thermoplastic (PET-soda bottles, polystyrene-coffee cups, hotmelts, and polyethylene-bags). The first thing to happen when you heat a part assembled with a threadlocker is the thermoset plastic actually gets harder and more dense because the heat drives more cross-linking. As the temperature continues to rise, the plastic eventually becomes brittle, and upon continued heating, the cured material will begin to degrade and char. This weakens the bonds and allows for disassembly."

I have been told multiple sources that at least 500 F is needed to disassemble bolts assembled with red loctite. I normally only use red on a bolt or stud with worn threads or on bolts in an exhaust system.

 

[IslandTractor]

Learn something new everyday on TBN.

 

[gkh7890]

Hey Pack.

I have 166 hrs now and thought I better check the bolts since my FIL has been using it for some intense loader work the past 2 weeks. The tables in the manual so easy to read and comprehend......NOT!!!!

Anyhow, the loader mount bolts on the right side (front of the support arm) were pretty loose and I noticed the 2 bottom washers split apart (see photos). This doesn't look normal, does it?

I pressed the washer back together and put it back together. Didn't have any blue locktite so I just tightened it. I couldn't quite get to the 120lbs setting but shes pretty darn close to it!

If you look at the last picture, you can see the other washer split. This is all after hours, of course, so I'll call my dealer tomorrow and ask about it. Some of the bolts on the left side (both front and back of the support arm) were loose but not as bad as the right front were. The bolts to the arms running to the axles that have 3 bolts, 2 of the 3 were loose on both sides. Still have the wheels to check.

Hope everyone takes a few minutes to check their bolts!!??

IT - thanks for the original post on this......:thumbsup:

 

[RoMad]

After reading this thread I am going to do two things.
1. check my loader bolts tomorrow.
2. start looking for a golf cart roof.

 

[IslandTractor]

None of my washers were split that I recall. I did a quick finger check on those bolts this weekend and all were tight.

I cannot imagine what would cause the washers to split.

 

[MotorSeven]

Crap...how did I miss this thread?

....will check tomorrow..thanks IT.

 

[IslandTractor]

None of my washers were split that I recall. I did a quick finger check on those bolts this weekend and all were tight.

I cannot imagine what would cause the washers to split.

I have to correct myself. I just reviewed Rick Wallace's post to me towards the beginning of this thread. Apparently there are lock washers so the split would be normal. It would not be so normal if those washers had no spring in them however. Easy to replace.

 

[Coyote machine]

It seems from the pics that the bolts line up top to bottom such that the back top and bottom and front top and bottom bolts could have a piece of flat stock thin metal drilled out to overlap each hole and then have a 'tab' which could be bent down to stop the bolts from loosening from vibration. This would include using the lock washers supplied and cleaning the threads of all the bolts prior to installing them back in 'chased' holes, ( ie. cleaned by a thread chaser, tap, before reinstalling each bolt with blue Locktite). This method is used a lot on mowers exhaust/ muffler bolts because of the intense heat and vibration. In the loader mount bolts case it seems there is sufficient jarring and shock to the entire area to warrant installing something to prevent the bolts from coming loose to begin with.
I'll check my DK-40 tomorrow because at 200 hrs or thereabout I have not checked the torque on any bolts except the loader structure, which I often find to be loose as a goose or missing bolts.

(And for the record, I just got my DK as dirty as it could ever be. I sunk it up to the steps in my stream while brush hogging close to the stream's bank and had to disconnect the brush hog to be pulled out by my neighbor's DK-55. I then craned out the brush hog with my tractor but nearly flipped it in the slippery mud.)

Thanks Island too:thumbsup: