CHARGING PROBLEM????

[Travis_R]

Hey ya'll,

I love my Mahindra 485 DI tractor. But, I think I might have a charging/electrical problem.

From idle to about 1500 rpms the negative/positive light comes on on the dashboard. What could be the problem? Maybe the alternator?

The battery was bad that came with it. It was weak. Well, I got a brand new Del-Star. The light didn't come on when the battery was "new".

I do know that the amp meter stays on just about zero. Maybe a little above.

The needle moves down rapidly to almost zero after the tractor warms up. But, it never goes on the negative side.

I took the positive lead off the battery with the tractor running. The tractor stayed running. I accidently touched the positive lead to a metal peice on the tractor and it sparked. So this must mean that the alternator is charging???

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?

If it is the alternator, how much does it cost and can I get it at a NAPA parts store?

Thanks a lot and I really do love the Mahindra tractors!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Travis /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[dieseldoc]

travis,doe's the 485 have a engine stop cable or is it an electric solenoid?if it has a pull stop cable removing the battery cable won't stop the engine under any condition.have you had any problems starting , dead battery?

 

[Travis_R]

Dieseldoc,

Thanks for the reply. I don't remember if I said it or not, but I don't know hardly anything about diesel engines.

To kill the tractor, I idle the engine down, turn the ignition key OFF, and then pull the "Pull to stop" lever under the dash until the tractor dies.

NO........I haven't had any problems starting the tractor with the new Del Star battery. It starts right up with no "drag" or "weakness" signs.

Now with all this said, NOW WHAT?

Travis

 

[Varmintmist]

Pulling from way back in the shade tree auto repair of my life, I'm guessing that you are in need of a volatge regulator. It seems that you are charging, just not enough. All of the cables and connections are tight correct?

However, the assistance of a real mechanic would be wise before you outlay any money on my advice. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Poboy]

If your light is going out at 1500 rpm it is because the early tractors would not start charging until the engine was reved up past 1200-1500 rpm. This is due to the early lucus charging system and the needle drops back on the amp gauge because your battery is charged up at this point so the charging system will not be working under a load so the amp hand will drop down to just above 0 .If it was equiped with a volt meter is would work around 14-14.5 volts on a 12 volt system.

 

[hudr]

I have a 5005 and it does the same thing. Especailly in cold weather. I usually let it warm up for a while then blip the throttle. Once I get past ~1000rpm the amp needle indicates charge. I used to get this a lot when I was riding a lot of motorcycles. They wouldn't charge until you had some RPM. Of course, like bikes, if you are moving or using the thing at all you are probably above that RPM threshold.

 

[Outlander1]

My old Allis used to do the same thing. I put a smaller pulley on the generator to speed it up a bit and all was well.

 

[Clyde]

Travis - you received some excellent tips from all of the members that replied to your post. The one thing that concerns me is...at what point did you accidentally shortout the positive lead of the battery cable to the tractor? If you didn't have alternator problems before this, you are indeed lucky if this single incident didn't kill the alternator. Very basic info here but an alternator is an A.C. charger and the electricity is then converted into D.C. thru a series of diodes. The diodes handle this conversion very easily and dependably but readily fail when shorted out. That arc that you saw was because you shorted the current directly into the same piece of iron that the ground lead connects too. I suggest that any further lead removal from the tractor battery is with the engine off and the key turned to off. If the present alternator keeps the battery at float level(approx 14.5 volts), consider yourself a very lucky man and hopefully wiser. As a side note to this, if some unfortunate motorist needs a jump off of my vehicle battery, I always try to be the good samaritan and help them out. Before connecting the jumper cables, I always shut off my vehicle, take off my battery leads, and then let them jump off my "bare" battery. You nor the other unfortunate motorist needing your assistance don't really know what caused their battery to die. They could have a plate that broke loose in their battery causing it to short out and now your best intentions leave you with a $200.00 or more bill for your new alternator.

 

[Travis_R]

Just an update-

Thanks for the replies. Everything ended up being o.k. There is NOT a problem with my charging system.

Travis

 

[musa_marketing]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If your light is going out at 1500 rpm it is because the early tractors would not start charging until the engine was reved up past 1200-1500 rpm. This is due to the early lucus charging system and the needle drops back on the amp gauge because your battery is charged up at this point so the charging system will not be working under a load so the amp hand will drop down to just above 0 .If it was equiped with a volt meter is would work around 14-14.5 volts on a 12 volt system. )</font>

You are absolutely correct.