Chainsaw sharpening machine

[Rat Rod Mac]

Does anyone own or has anyone used the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener? If so is it any good? For all the more I saw, I would not be using it every day. It's advertised at only $30.00. Or would I be better off dropping the money for one of the Oregon models. Just thought I'd ask, thanks. RRM

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Does anyone own or has anyone used the Harbor Freight chainsaw chain sharpener? If so is it any good? For all the more I saw, I would not be using it every day. It's advertised at only $30.00. Or would I be better off dropping the money for one of the Oregon models. Just thought I'd ask, thanks. RRM

Don't waste your money on it...I had one and ended up throwing it in the trash and buying an Oregon. This is one item where you get what you pay for.

 

[westbrooklawn]

Do a search at arboriste.com and you will find that most think the Harbor Freight sharpener is not worth messing with... they will also tell you positively that the Northern Tool sharpener for $89 is a great buy... copy of the Oregon 511. I bought one based on those recommendations, and I am very pleased with it. Try the following link:


Chain Saw Sharpeners, Chainsaw Sharpening Equipment | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Ductape]

I'm with westbrook........... I've had the Northern chain grinder for a couple years and I'm very happy with it. I've got four saws and it paid for itself long ago. They are on sale frequently, and you may be able to get it to your door for under a hundred dollars.

 

[20 20]

Save yourself even more money and go with a dremel works just as good if not better, plus you won't have to take the chain of.

 

[LD1]

Personally I don't like the chain grinders. I think they remove too much metal and wear out chain faster.

I like the file guides. They remove less material. You don't have to remove the chain either. It only takes about 5 minutes to do a 24" chain and not having to take it off, makes up a lot of the speed difference. If you don't sharpen all that often, I'd look into getting a file guide and learning to file.

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I wouldn't waste the money on the Harbor one when you can spend a bit more money and get one that will last longer and is more accurate. The first one I had is called "Little Nick" that was an older version which worked well. Then I bought a German made one called a Maxx GB750. It is a great chain sharpener. Not cheap though. Having good sharp chains saves me a lot of time and effort so I carry spare chains when ever I go out to do a job.
If you do get a good sharpener take time to read the manual or do a bit of research online as to the different types of chains and the angles they are ground to. Most of the chain sharpeners are set up to sharpen round chisel chain. The higher end ones will sharpen the extra angles of a square chisel chain.
As for me I still haven't gotten the knack of hand sharpening a chain consistently like a good electric sharpener can do. If you don't hit rocks or nails you shouldn't have to take off very much metal. Another thing to see about having your sharpener do is adjust to grind the depth cutters down on the chain.

 

[Bedlam]

I have the 'Little Nick" it looks like the now present HF one . Its worked well for me for a few years now. It actually cost close to 80 dollars from HF new.So you can see they have dropped.I haven't tried but would agree the northern one for 89 dollars looks to be good A friend of mine has one and likes it. its far better built.I would go with that one if I were to burn up the Little Nick.
The HF one does the job for me but is a bit sloppy.I would say that it works but its more of a guide than actually being fully engaged.Again its all about use.
I can also see the need for a file .The machines do take allot of meat off.Of course this can also depend on how deep you cut. I touch mine up all the time.But its nice to get them back into even cut.
You'd have to weigh your options against how often you'd sharpen, budget etc.

 

[RobertN]

I'll second that. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to use. And they take off less material. I have the Oregon version of the file guide.

I thought I was doing well with a regular handfile and guide; this setup really helped.

The other thing of note: I do not let my chains get dull! With the file guide noted below, or the Oregon version, I only need two swishes of the file usually to keep nice sharp chains.
I always keep 1 or 2 spare sharp chains. If one does start to dull in the field, I change it out.

If I could tell someone new anything, it would be:
- Start with new chain
- don't let it get dull
- dont force the saw; you'll overheat the chain and bar, losing temper in the chain
- Oregon and Stihl both have great online info on properly sharpening a chain; read it first
- Get a good guide. I spent years calibrating equipment to operate in sub micron stepping, yet I did not get my chains sharpened well.

Personally I don't like the chain grinders. I think they remove too much metal and wear out chain faster.

I like the file guides. They remove less material. You don't have to remove the chain either. It only takes about 5 minutes to do a 24" chain and not having to take it off, makes up a lot of the speed difference. If you don't sharpen all that often, I'd look into getting a file guide and learning to file.

Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

 

[beenthere]

Save yourself the grief (and expense) and file by hand. By the time you spend setting up a chain grinder to do a good job (much harder to do with the HF or the NT chinese knock-offs), you will have chewed up a lot of good chainsaw teeth in the process.

A stroke or two with a good file and some of the simple jigs to either hold or guide the file are easy to master and will maintain a sharp chain better than any grinder. IMO

Here is the jig I use that is simple, cheap, and works the best of the many that I've used over the past 40+ years. Made by Pferd, and sold through Husqavarna