Chains on front or rear tractor tires for pushing snow

[nyone]

I've been running double rings on the rear only for the past 25 years.

Double rings on snow/ice are nothing compared to any chain with a Vbar or square chain link.

 

[CobyRupert]

For pushing snow: back tires
For backing out of the snowbank: front tires
When pushing snow with the FEL in float, your back tires will want to raise the front tires off the ground as the plow encounters the weight of the snow.
Most of the time the tractor is heavier than the snow so you don’t see this, but there’s less traction for the front to work with…unless you raise the plow. This reduced traction is most often noticed when you lose the ability to steer using the front wheels. Yes, chained tires that are “floating” have more traction than unchained floating tires, but neither will have much.

 

[grsthegreat]

I tried plowing with only rear chains, and tractor front end would be pushed opposite way plow is turned. Added front chains also…
no issues. 10 years of plowing snow later, no issues. I never tried front chains only. We get lots of ice buildup here.

 

[TractorTYMe]

The Euro style studded chains provide more traction then the other types of chains and also give a fairly smooth ride.
I can road travel on paved roads at15-18 mph comfortably, I usually run around 10-12 for reduced wear on the chains.
View attachment 772641

I LOVE that big Branson of yours, seems like a nice machine.

 

[LouNY]

I LOVE that big Branson of yours, seems like a nice machine.

It's been a decent tractor I will admit to being a bit spoiled by the farms tractors;
the full power shifts,
the air ride seats,
more hydraulic options on the remotes,
better sound damping etc.
But the Branson was close to $20,000 less the IH or NH for 80 HP,
cab, air, heat, and the 540E pto mode, three rear remotes (unfortunately none have float).
I was extremely perturbed with it the first winter, when it was sub zero F she wouldn't start,
the starter wouldn't roll the engine over more then 1 or 2 revolutions. Even having the block toasty warm
and synthetic oil in the engine still no go.
I would have to put a heater to the rear housing for considerable time before it would start.
Changed the hydraulic fluid to a para-synthetic (Ce-Pe-Co multi purpose tractor fluid) problem solved.
My conclusion was the hydraulic fluid was too heavy for the transmission pump for the power shuttle clutch system to pump
at those temperatures which was why warming the rear housing allowed it to start.
Then she lost the water pump early in her life during a bad snow storm, and Branson parts are outrageous it was over
$400 for just the pump.
But all in all she is a decent tractor good power and gearing. A good heat and AC I keep running the idea of an air ride seat in her but
that would be $900 to $1600 and for the few hundred hours a year is it worth it?

 

[pike14130]

I run double rings only on the back of a JD4510 . I run a 8ft Fisher on a fabricated frame for the FEL, a 6ft 2 stage blower on the back and plow a 500ft sloped gravel driveway in western NY. When I get the front end stuck pushing the snow over a ditch the rear chains allow the grip once I tilt the plow down and lift the front out of the ditch and back. At $800 (2018) a set for the rears they do the job good enough so as not to have to call someone to pull me out and there is no reason not to use chains on front and back or to use vbar for being more aggressive. They don't tear up my grass when finish mowing the sidehill of my pond and I wore them out after 15 years of year round, as I cut firewood on my lot.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I have seen front only chains break the front driveshaft on both tractors and trucks. There is not enough strength in that part of the drive train to handle the force and weight of the entire tractor sometimes when it pulls the load.

 

[Jaygyver]

I only used them on the fronts on my old JD770 on R1's using the bucket and no wheel ballast, just my brush cutter on the back. -Aluminum- car chains we bought for our older explorer but never used. lol
Worked ok but still wish I had the rears.
We only average around 6 inches here at my house with the occasional foot or two sometimes. But I do try to take care of the neighbors and ours main road which is around a half mile or so to the highway.
I picked up an LS mt235 this spring so I'll definitely have to see about getting some real chains. Came with R4's and I hear they're fine in the snow but here in the Pacific Rainy West the mud hate's them.

 

[Cougsfan]

I have put them on the front only and the rear only. Each way had limitations. Now I only use them on both when and if I put them on. I have not had real good luck with chains on Ag tires as too many of the chain cross links fall between the tire cleats. Chains actually work the best on turf tires and OK on R4's.
I wish someone made tractor tires with studs you could screw in when it snows and remove in the spring.

 

[Jaygyver]

I have put them on the front only and the rear only. Each way had limitations. Now I only use them on both when and if I put them on. I have not had real good luck with chains on Ag tires as too many of the chain cross links fall between the tire cleats. Chains actually work the best on turf tires and OK on R4's.
I wish someone made tractor tires with studs you could screw in when it snows and remove in the spring.

Actually I think they do, @TractorNH on the first page has a picture of his tractor that looks like he has studs on the front. I do know there was a couple of outfits that made a tool to stud your own, been a few years since i've looked tho and don't know how well they worked.