Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[dfkrug]

Any floating unit is better than a fixed unit.

That is what I think, too.

Here is an example of a floating linkage on a new Worksaver rotary cutter. You can see where the rigid or hydraulic toplink attaches (not provided). You could use a chain instead of a toplink here, but that would be redundant.

 

[Diggin It]

^^ That only appears to limit travel to a couple of inches, or less, where a chain would be less limited.


Questions on chain for cutters instead of blades; I can see it being less likely to throw rocks or loose debris and more likely to 'float' over roots and dirt clods where a blade might bend. But how much risk is there of throwing a link? Is hardened chain more likely to break a link off hitting something solid?

And what about steel cable?

 

[ptsg]

^^ That only appears to limit travel to a couple of inches, or less, where a chain would be less limited.


Questions on chain for cutters instead of blades; I can see it being less likely to throw rocks or loose debris and more likely to 'float' over roots and dirt clods where a blade might bend. But how much risk is there of throwing a link? Is hardened chain more likely to break a link off hitting something solid?

And what about steel cable?

Doesn't happen much but that being said, I do have a cracked link. I do back that thing over pretty much everything, from stumps to rocks. Rocks will wear out the chain much faster.

The chain we use on the mowers is G80 or G100 chain with 3/4" diameter on the wire.

If one link breaks off, it will cause the mower to be unbalanced. So replacing both chains is needed. It's not that expensive either, around 30$ you can replace both chains.

Using chains also requires more HP, that's why we also use smaller mowers. Usually the same width of the tractor or slightly narrower. Most spindles can also work with 4 chains instead of 2 but then again, it need at least 50 HP work decent.

Regarding throwing debris, the mowers have a chain skirt in the front and the back which works very well at reducing the thrown debris.

I think a steel cable would need more RPM on the spindle of the mower to be effective.

 

[ruffdog]

I stopped using my top link years ago on my bushog.

Going with a two point hitch instead of three point, means the bushog follows the contour of the ground much better. No one was more surprised than I was when I found out I could lift the bushog on the front enough to clear most obstructions.

If you have no rocks/stumps to hit, why lift the cutter? I too do not even attach the top link.

 

[dfkrug]

^^ That only appears to limit travel to a couple of inches, or less, where a chain would be less limited.

A chain toplink or chains instead of the mower top bracket would have more range of compression, yes. The Worksaver compression bracket above will compress about a foot, and result in as much as a couple of feet of lift at the rear of the mower. The bracket in partial compression is shown in this photo. It can compress more.

I bought this new to go with one of the tractors I refurbished, and have no experience with using it mowing. Others may have experience with this kind of mechanism in actual mowing. I hope they report here. Maybe a chain toplink or chains instead of a mower top bracket works better.

I have straightened and/or welded numerous bent mower brackets. Mower makers prob assume that users have a fixed conventional toplink.

 

[JWR]

dfkrug: That specific configuration is one I had not seen but all the major rotary cutter mfrs have something with similar intent and function. They all know it is a mistake to run with a totally stiff top link and structure back down to the body of the hog. Deere uses the loose clevis to allow similar freedom to the linkage you show. Bush Hog (at least on my 792) uses a heavy single bar of steel link from the top end of the 3pt lift triangle on the hog to the straps they provide on back to the hog body. I have proven that rig inadequate as have many others bending or breaking the straps that go on down to the body of the hog. Look at web literature (or your local dealer) and you'll find they all have some free-floater design that at least helps prevent bent hardware. I do not personally believe ANY of them work as well as a simple piece of chain. For one thing you can cut-and-try until you get the ideal length for your tractor, your hog and your circumstances. At least half of the old farmers I see use a piece of chain.

 

[Cougsfan]

If you have no rocks/stumps to hit, why lift the cutter? I too do not even attach the top link.

You are lucky to have no rocks/stumps, my friend! Sometimes I have to drive down quite a bit of road to get where I am going to mow. I don't like leaving the bush hog down while buzzing along at those near supersonic speeds (about 18-20 mph)

 

[JWR]

You are lucky to have no rocks/stumps, my friend! Sometimes I have to drive down quite a bit of road to get where I am going to mow. I don't like leaving the bush hog down while buzzing along at those near supersonic speeds (about 18-20 mph)

I've not seen anyone in this thread advocate lack of ability to raise the hog (for transport or whatever reasons.) There is no reason about use of a chain (either replacing the top link or back further as part of the hog linkage) to let that result in inability to raise the implement. At some settings of your 3pt lift controls you may well be able to operate in a "pull-behind" mode but you'd be crazy to have that as the only mode.

I guess ruffdog is the only one saying he runs all the time in a pull-behind mode. Why he'd want to be unable to raise the hog ?? No idea. Maybe he will comment.

 

[lennyzx11]

I've not seen anyone in this thread advocate lack of ability to raise the hog (for transport or whatever reasons.) There is no reason about use of a chain (either replacing the top link or back further as part of the hog linkage) to let that result in inability to raise the implement. At some settings of your 3pt lift controls you may well be able to operate in a "pull-behind" mode but you'd be crazy to have that as the only mode.

I guess ruffdog is the only one saying he runs all the time in a pull-behind mode. Why he'd want to be unable to raise the hog ?? No idea. Maybe he will comment.

A picture found in the archives.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=231392&d=1317222147

Experts, correct me if I’m off base. Wouldn’t be the first time.

This is written only in regards to the chains going from the solid top link to the rear of the cutter in lieu of the solid bars.


You can still raise the cutter in normal operation if the chain length is set correctly.

The positive from using chain is that if the tractor is backed up an incline or into a ditch where the cutter rear is forced up by the terrain, the chain is flexible under compression.
With solid bars/linkage, the bars have no give so something has to give as the cutter is forced up shortening the distance from the rear of the tractor’s top link mount to the cutter’s attachment point.

If the 3 point arms are lifted to raise the cutter off the ground in normal operation, the chain(s) are under Tension and pulls the cutter off the ground just like bars.

Reasons to not run chain all the way to tractor and not run a toplink?
1. Having to remove toplink.
2. Worry about chain getting into PTO shaft when slack.
3. Lotta movement around of cutter when raised and running down the road.
4. Seems it would get a little touchier to get the chain length right to allow movement full range yet pick up cutter for transport.

Disclaimer
My landpride rotary cutter has the flexible linkage thingy and I haven’t had a reason to change it. But I have a hydraulic top link and can raise it pretty high anyway.

 

[ruffdog]

I've not seen anyone in this thread advocate lack of ability to raise the hog (for transport or whatever reasons.) There is no reason about use of a chain (either replacing the top link or back further as part of the hog linkage) to let that result in inability to raise the implement. At some settings of your 3pt lift controls you may well be able to operate in a "pull-behind" mode but you'd be crazy to have that as the only mode.

I guess ruffdog is the only one saying he runs all the time in a pull-behind mode. Why he'd want to be unable to raise the hog ?? No idea. Maybe he will comment.

I have run pull type cutters that ride on the 2 rear wheels all day long, year after year. That is all you can do with a pull type, pull it. I get to the end of the field, I just raise the 3pt a bit, turn, lower the 3pt and mow. Why would I need to drive around with the cutter 2 feet in the air if all I'm cutting is prairie grass in a field?

King Kutter 5 Foot Rotary Pull Kutter 4HP P-6-4-P-Y