Chains instead of a top link for bush hog?

[JWR]

Good points JWR. Do those bungee cords keep the chain from swinging too much when slack?

Yes sir, they do. I ran for a while without the rubber straps but it clanged back and forth at times and seems nicer with tension maintained on the chains by the rubber straps. Not related but I also replaced that noisy tin can they put on for a cover over the slip clutch and U-joint with a home-made hard vinyl box. Same size and shape and hinged as the original but made of 3/8" thick black vinyl cut from sheets.

 

[LD1]

Because you don't need the chain with those as the top link loop will pivot on the bottom... Or is that too hard to understand too?

I simply extend the top link and let it float.

Agreed. But maybe you didnt read my posts. Specifically #113 https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ins-instead-top-link-bush-12.html#post5674966

Where I specifically said that MFG's have different ways to accomplish the same thing.

There is a difference between using chains for a toplink, and having chains on the bushhog stabilizers.

People are specifically asking about a chain for the toplink. Even citing the fact that they use a chain in lieu of a toplink on OTHER EQUIPMENT to allow flotation.

It is an acceptable practice IF NEEDED. IE: if your cutter doesnt already account for tail wheel pivoting via some other method.

What you show is "some other method" but NOT A CHAIN IN PLACE OF THE TOPLINK.

And as I said earlier.....since cutters are NOT SOLD WITH A TOPLINK.....then NO MFG's DONT OFFER A CHAIN IN PLACE OF SOMETHING THAT IS NOT PART OF THE CUTTER.

Many cutters use "some other method" to allow tailwheel to pivot so a piece of chain is not necessary.
Woods uses linkages and no chain, but still floats...
newer bushhogs uses something similar.
Some use a swinging clevis like alot of finish mowers.

And still some cheap cutters have nothing and bend the straps like this one

That second picture is the one people commonly just run a chain for a toplink. Because it is simple and easy to do.

If you replace the lower bolts with shoulder bolts, or a bolt and locknut that isnt torqued real tight, or a castle nut and cotter pin, etc.....that allows the cutter's a-frame to rotate. THEN you can remove the straps that are all bent up on the cutter and replace them with chain.

At the end of the day, there is more than one way to accomplish the same end goal. And I really wouldnt point to one being superior to the other. Just dont confuse a chain in place of the toplink as meaning modifying the cutter with chains to allow the a-frame to pivot. Two totally different things to attain the same end result

 

[ptsg]

And what's your problem with me showing other solution than can actually work for someone else? I wasn't even replying to in the first place. As usual in your posts, you just come out of nowhere like someone who just woke up on the wrong side of bed...

Here it goes. Let's hope this one makes you happy:

 

[LD1]

And what's your problem with me showing other solution than can actually work for someone else? I wasn't even replying to in the first place. As usual in your posts, you just come out of nowhere like someone who just woke up on the wrong side of bed...

Here it goes. Let's hope this one makes you happy:

View attachment 644889

As usual? You're funny. Sorry I dont cater to the incompotent.

I have no issues with anyone (YOU INCLUDED) showing alternative methods of accomplishing the same dam thing.

But when you show those pictures and make the false claim that those pictures represent chains in lieu of a rigid toplink and then get offended when you get corrected....now its somehow my fault and I woke up on the wrong side of the bed?

Im simply pointing out that there are several ways to accomplish the goal of allowing a tail wheel to float. Even showed pictures and gave descriptions of how they work. And that they all pretty much accomplish the same thing.

YOU on the other had keep trying to convince me that a singing a-frame with chains is the same thing as a chain for a toplink. Not sure why you are so h3ll bent on convincing on something that isnt true. OR that somehow showing me an actual picture of a chain for a toplink will make me happy? But at least you seem to understand the difference now.

 

[ptsg]

What false claim? Show me that claim. LOL

Chains on the top link frame to the rear of the mower or chain on the top link will do exactly the same floating effect... I've never said it was the same thing!

But hey! Whatever floats your boat...

 

[LD1]

This WHOLE THREAD is about using a short piece of chain for a toplink.

And your FIRST POST IN THIS THREAD IS:

Very common everywhere else in the world. And also chains as cutting tool instead of blades.

View attachment 644812View attachment 644813View attachment 644814

IS that not implying that the pictures you attached....stating its common elsewhere in the world.....is of a chain for a toplink?

To which....I simply replied that NONE of those are of a chain for a toplink. Then you got all butthurt because you were corrected. And have been trying to defend your position every since. Which I have no clue why I am wasting my time with you. Because I have explained several times already....that there is more than one way to accomplish the SAME THING. Yet you still seem h3llbent on trying to prove something to me? Let it go. You posted pictures of your cutter with a hydraulic toplink. I said that it aint no chain for a toplink. Whats the problem? What part of anything I have said is incorrect?

 

[ptsg]

I simply continued the conversation that was taking place in the 4 or 5 posts above, but your need to feel superior above everyone else just messed up your brain and you then obviously didn't understand what was going on.

It's pointless to keep this going with you.

I'm out! Peace!

 

[LD1]

Maybe you didnt read the 4 of 5 post above? Because it certainly wasnt continuing on with the conversation.

Here are the 8 post directly prior....

Are there any manufacturers selling a brush hog with a chain instead of top link, since several members here seem to prefer it?

Rotary cutters dont come with a toplink. So....no they dont.

But different MFG's have different designs to account for tail-wheel pitch due to uneven terrain.

Most either use a swinging toplink, or pivoting braces. But some use chains.

Since the MFG's of the cutters "assume" most people will use the typical rigid toplink....and since the toplink connection to the tractor is NOT part of the mower....they have their various ways of making things work. But some cutters dont. The ones that are built right (heavy enough) have no issue and the whole cutter just floats up because the 3PH floats. Only drawbacks is uneven cut. Some cheap MFG's dont understand the physics going on....and dont account for this nor do they build heavy enough. Those are the junk you see for $100 on craigslist with bent braces

No, not that I have ever seen. Most people just do it them selves with such simple and readily available materials.

I stopped using my top link years ago on my bushog.

Going with a two point hitch instead of three point, means the bushog follows the contour of the ground much better. No one was more surprised than I was when I found out I could lift the bushog on the front enough to clear most obstructions.

Chains seem to be standard equipment in Australia, where the implement is called "slasher."

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=tractor+slasher+&t=ffsb&atb=v169-1&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

Bruce

M.K.Martin builds them. I've had one for over 15 years - works well.

MK Martin | Pulsar

Neither one of those are chains in place of a toplink.

Totally different area ....but ultimately accomplish the same goal. Same as a swinging/floating toplink bracket, or hinged braces (similar to what woods uses)

I read threads here on TBN about using a chain instead of a top link on a slasher, and thought it would be worth trying.

However when I looked at my slasher, I realized that it already was setup to achieve the same result (mine is set up as shown in the first link).

But the important part that I was missing was the need for a gauge wheel. Once I had installed a wheel, it was easy to get a consistent cut.
I now lower the slasher onto the wheel and then a little bit more so that the slasher is a little lower at the front and the chains are a little slack. This works well for me anyway.

I use a chain toplink on my rear grader blade after I fitted a gauge wheel to it. It is now a pleasure to use after many hours creating, and then trying to fix, the miniature BMX tracks I was making!

I have no need to feel superior. Its simply about putting out factual information. IF something is false....I have no issues stating so, and providing correct information. Its just not very often someone wants to turn it into an argument when all I am trying to do is provide everyone with the correct information.

 

[bcp]

If someone asks about a specific solution to a problem, it should be OK to suggest other solutions that the OP may not know about.

Bruce

 

[LD1]

If someone asks about a specific solution to a problem, it should be OK to suggest other solutions that the OP may not know about.

Bruce

Agreed. Even mentioned SEVERAL times that there are SEVERAL other ways to accomplish the same thing.

IF someone was asking about how to prep a seedbed for a deer plot.....I could suggest a plow and a disc.........or a roto-tiller. But if someone were to insist they are the same thing....I would explain the difference and that they are not the same thing even though the end result is the same....a prepped seed bed. And I'd expect it to end at that. What I would not expect would be for someone to get offended that they were corrected and want to draw and argument out over 2 pages.