Chain sharpening

   / Chain sharpening #21  
When we moved here we cleared out a spot in the woods for the house, so I had many, many fallen trees that needed cleaned up....consequently, my chains were either digging into the ground and/or the tree which was laying on the ground had loads of dirt.... I bought a 100' spool of chain and had it made into loops so I could swap & go.

Yesterday, I went to cut something and got a bit productive.....I had a couple round files and thought I'd sharpen an old chain. This chain was "dry" bordering being rusted....or maybe I should say oxidized a bit. So it became my guinnea pig.

Used round file, chain on bar, otherwise freehand. (to cut to the end, the chain cut fantastically when I was using it) But my question is, when using round file, do you cut TOWARDS the point of the tooth or do you cut from the backside?

I've always felt you sharpen something cutting INTO the angle and was doing this....then tried some from behind. It was easier and seemed to go faster. (in the end the chain worked so whatever I did was good enough)

Now....RAKERS..... Rakers (if I spelled that correctly) are the bane of my life. Years ago, and one of the reasons I simply bought a ton of new chains) I had a chain "professionally sharpened". Went to cut a tree down that was within distance of hitting the house. I had a new chain on. Tree settled back, pinched bar. I went to house, got second bar, freshly sharpened chain.....and it wouldn't cut melted butter. They neglected the rakers and the cutting adjustment was simply screwed.

Which brings me back to yesterday and seeing those rakers. Not knowing how low to file them, I pulled my 4" grinder out and simply flattened them to the same height as the link attached to them, totally getting rid of the "point".

I really liked how it cut when I was using it. I sort of went nuts cutting some junk from the woods behind the house (clutter) and then walked to the field and cut all the pines that were sprouting next to the trees that I can't mow close enough to get. (pines were anywhere from 12" tall up to 20' tall)

I'm rambling huh! HA!

My real question is which is the best direction to push the file? I still think it's towards the front of the edge rather than from behind.... but I did both and it works fine for my needs. (I don't cut firewood at all, I drag to burn pile and burn everything)
 
   / Chain sharpening #22  
(1) From behind
(2) Rakers are there to limit the "bite" each tooth takes. Eliminate them, and you might get away with it (depending on the nature of the timber being sawn) or you might be in for unpredictable behaviour of the chain!
 
   / Chain sharpening #23  
(1) From behind
(2) Rakers are there to limit the "bite" each tooth takes. Eliminate them, and you might get away with it (depending on the nature of the timber being sawn) or you might be in for unpredictable behaviour of the chain!

The rakers are there for safety. Without them saw kickback is much more likely and someone will be eating there running saw. There reduction or filing off is suppose to match the cutting teeth hieght. ;)
 
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   / Chain sharpening #26  
I keep up with the rakers, using a gauge. But when hand filing the rakers don't need attention more than ever 5 or so filings, and very little gets taken off. It doesn't take long to do. Every couple times I do the rakers I reshape them with a file to match the original shape. If you only file down the top the effective depth is not as deep as your gauge would indicate because the tooth attacks the wood at an angle.

I don't see that much value myself in using a tool that does both teeth and rakers.
 
   / Chain sharpening #30  
Any of these should help; there are tons of YT videos on how to use the 2in1 sharpeners.



 
 
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