2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 8,456
How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.
Cutting a curve can be caused by an unevenly sharpened chain, a bent bar, or spread guide rails. You should not be waiting till the saw is "cutting poorly" to sharpen it. Your description of the saw sometimes throwing chips and sometimes sawdust is often indicative of spread or worn guide rails. Did you try swapping the bars?I’ll update this thread. To recap my MS250 chain always seems sharper than my MS261. I used the MS261 a couple of days ago and it was cutting so-so and then it started curving as it cut. My normal sharpening technique is about 2 passes per tooth. I did 5 this time, it cut great then.
My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.
I would like to add uneven raker depth in proportion to the cutting teeth.Cutting a curve can be caused by an unevenly sharpened chain, a bent bar, or spread guide rails. You should not be waiting till the saw is "cutting poorly" to sharpen it. Your description of the saw sometimes throwing chips and sometimes sawdust is often indicative of spread or worn guide rails. Did you try swapping the bars?
Got a picture of the cutters?I’ll update this thread. To recap my MS250 chain always seems sharper than my MS261. I used the MS261 a couple of days ago and it was cutting so-so and then it started curving as it cut. My normal sharpening technique is about 2 passes per tooth. I did 5 this time, it cut great then.
My conclusion is I use the 261 on larger wood that also in this case was a little dirty. It also has a larger fuel tank so it cuts longer on a tank. I just need to sharpen it more often when I notice it cutting poorly. Not exactly earth shattering news to anyone but I initially thought one saw was cutting better for some other reason. Sometimes I also notice it will be throwing good chips but some saw dust mixed in. I assume that just means some of the teeth are dull.
I think they’re good. I bought a package of new ones a few years ago.How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.
I’ll get one. I appreciate everyone’s answers. Self criticism can be tough. My initial reaction I’m sharpening the chain correctly but I wouldn’t be posting here if that was 100% true.Got a picture of the cutters?
How used are your sharpening files? The files in my Pferd were getting dull. Just changed them out for new ones, and the results are so much bettter.
Then somebody doesn't know how to set up the grinder properly.I sharpen my chain only when I need too, when I feel like it's starting to loose its edge then I will do it but during the winter when I don't hit anything I can go days without sharping it.
Hand sharping is a superior sharping then girder if you can be consistent with hand sharping. The locals with forestry feller with the chainsaw style bars much ratter hand filing their chain then grinding it as it last longer.
Then somebody doesn't know how to set up the grinder properly.