Chain Saw Sharpening

[GBeck]

Anyone have any experience with one of those automatic electric chainsaw sharpening grinders? I would just be using to maintain a couple chains for personal use as I heat the house with firewood

 

[Bedlam]

Ive used this for years
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Not too bad a job a bit flimsy but....
Then I saw my buddy has this one
Northern Industrial Bench or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment

both will do the job, but id spend the extra and get the northern one if I were to do it again.
However I broke a wheel changing the grinding wheel and harbor freight replaced it Free of charge, I do like their return policy

 

[sunspot]

I use a Dremel attachment. It seems to work well.

 

[daBear]

I have filed my chains for many years but recently bought the Horrible Frieght chain grinder for about $30. That is probably one of the best thirty bucks I have spent in a while. Like was said above it is a bit flimsy, but for an occassional home use it is just fine. When it wears out I will get a more robust model but this is worth the money in the mean time.

 

[actionaj]

I use the Dremel attachment too. Makes quick work for sharping a chain. Thought about buying a cordless Dremel just for this. Using a file is just to much work.

 

[RobJ]

I still use a plain old hand file. Quick, don't have to take the chain off either. I can gte around my little 16" in 5-10 minutes. I figure with these cheap chains these days you might only get 1 or 2 sharpens before you get into the soft non treated steel. Ahh but I don't use mine that much either.

Rob

 

[czechsonofagun]

+1 for Horror fright sharpener, works great. You can get one in better quality from Baileys or just buy from them replacement wheel for the HF grinder, either way, it is probably the best way to sharpen chains.

 

[MikeInEburg]

I bought the $100 sharpener from Baileys - probably similar to Northern's. The advantage for me is that it keeps the cutting angle and depth the same every time. I've had it for a couple of years and works like a champ. But yes, you do need to take the chain off of the saw.
Mike

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

I use a Dremel attachment. It seems to work well.

I want to start sharpening my own chains...do you need to take the chain off to use the Dremel attachment? I have one of those (Dremel) already so that might be the ticket for me also.

 

[Bedlam]

my guess the dremel you don't have to remove but removal to me is easy and preferred you can remember to blow out the sawdust and make sure the oil slot is clear and get it the right tightness.

 

[jayste]

I want to start sharpening my own chains...do you need to take the chain off to use the Dremel attachment? I have one of those (Dremel) already so that might be the ticket for me also.

No, all you have to do is get close to a power source, position it properly and go. The cordless Dremel might be even better to sharpen on location. I keep a spare bar around in the shop and clamp it in the vise and sharpen the spare chains. Works pretty slick as well. I've got blackjack oak around here and a sharp chain is hard to come by when cutting dead wood!

Jay

 

[sunspot]

I want to start sharpening my own chains...do you need to take the chain off to use the Dremel attachment? I have one of those (Dremel) already so that might be the ticket for me also.

No, the chain stays on. I put a dot of paint on my starting point to keep from going to a tooth that has already been done.

 

[Phast12]

I have both the harbor freight and the Dremel chainsaw sharpeners and they both work well. I usually take 2 or 3 chains out with me to use when i am cutting so i can swap them out. When I'm done the Dremel makes it nice to leave the chain on the saw and I use compressor air to blow out all the junk. Then i use the bench sharpener to finish out any of the others i use. I also mark the teeth but i use a perm marker since its quick and easy and wears off. I also use the dremel on my small pole saw.

 

[Ductape]

I have the Northern Tool chain grinder........... paid about a hundred bucks for it. I maintain four saws, and it was probably the best hundred I ever spent ! I have a couple or three chains per saw....... and go out with all chains sharp. Just swap loops in the field, no more filing halfway through the job.

 

[Samandothers]

I have used a file to sharpen my chains. I was not very successful at filing teeth evenly. I evidently would not remove the same from each tooth and over time the teeth got different lengths. My saw was actually cutting in an arc in the wood which caused the bar to heat from friction. I understand this issue is possibly from the teeth not being equal lengths.
I recently got the Harbor Freight sharpener. The first chain I sharpened was an older one that I had manually butchered up. I was able to get the teeth all the same length and the saw cut a lot better. I then 'touched up' my other chains that were not in as bad a shape. I have not tried these chains yet.
I have four chains which I can change while in the field if necessary. I then can use this sharpener on all four once I return home.

 

[RadarTech]

I have an oregon sharpener I got from Lowes.
It plugs into a light plug and came with a set of pig tales.

Works really good. I have used it on the front rack on my ATV, the bucket of the L3400 and beside the SUV.

I think it was about $25 with an extra pack of files..

Later,
J

 

[Smalljobs]

I have three chainsaws and maybe 6-9 chains. I once used a Dremel with 2 different stones for the two chain pitches on hand. I was never really happy with the results, mainly due to lack of skill on my part to properly sharpen the underside of the upper edge. A few months ago I bought from Lowes an Oregon molded red plastic jig that controls multiple angles, etc and it clips on the chain bar. I also bought spare files. The good news is that it works fine but the bad news is I think the OEM directions are wrong, it often slips on the bar or else it challenges you to change the setup or else the chain won't feed easily, etc.....You must pay attention to how the setup impacts the edge on the underside of the cutting tooth. You can end up with sharp edges on the outside cutters but poor edge on the actual edge that does the cutting. In short it takes some learning to use properly but once you figure it out, it works OK. If my budget was the same I would buy another. With a bigger budget, I'd move up.

 

[studor]

I use a granberg bar mount sharpener that does a great job but of course is entirely manual. I have 5-10 chains for each saw I own and carry spares with me when I go cutting. If I nick some teeth on a chain (like on a rock) I will take it to the local Stihl dealer and have it made into a ripping chain for my chainsaw mill (also a granberg)

 

[PAGUY]

May I add that be sure to wear proper protective gear when using a chainsaw. A fellow I know recently had a chainsaw nick his kneecap which required sutures to close the wound. Buy a pair of chaps and headgear w/mask. I was told a horror story of a fellow who had a chain jump the bar and hit his jugular vein and he bled to death in minutes.

Another pointer is NEVER cut with the top of the chainsaw. A guy who cuts trees for a living told me to always sharpen the chain when you are done and before you store it. He said your hain will seem to last forever as most people are guilty of just cutting w/o sharpening since the last time you used it. Dulls the chain fast.

 

[MossRoad]

Another pointer is NEVER cut with the top of the chainsaw.

Sometimes you have to... like when a log is on high points at each end. If you cut it from the top, it will pinch your bar. If you cut from underneath coming up, it opens as the log settles down. No other way to do it other than hiring some massive equipment to drag the tree out.