Chain Saw Question

[proudestmonkey]

That sounds sort of what I was looking at. I'd love to be able to limit my chain saw use to trees that are 2" and bigger, and use something like that for all the smaller ones. Right now, I am using the chain saw for everything that is 1" or bigger, and using a hand loper for smaller stuff--takes a lot of time with the hundreds of them that are all over my woods.

What did you pay for your echo trimmer setup with the saw blade? And where did you get it (if you don't mind my asking)?

 

[proudestmonkey]

That sounds sort of what I was looking at. I'd love to be able to limit my chain saw use to trees that are 2" and bigger, and use something like that for all the smaller ones. Right now, I am using the chain saw for everything that is 1" or bigger, and using a hand loper for smaller stuff--takes a lot of time with the hundreds of them that are all over my woods.

What did you pay for your echo trimmer setup with the saw blade? And where did you get it (if you don't mind my asking)?

 

[Spiffy]

Does the nose sprocket have 7 or 9 teeth? The book I have indicated the .043 bars have 7 teeth in the nose and .050 have 9. So if you are running a 9 tooth bar with .043 chain maybe it is a mismatch.

I don't know about Echo, but the Stihl brushcutters would rival your saw for price and easily more if you like power. Not saying it's not the right tool for the job, just forwarning to cushion the sticker shock! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Spiffy]

Does the nose sprocket have 7 or 9 teeth? The book I have indicated the .043 bars have 7 teeth in the nose and .050 have 9. So if you are running a 9 tooth bar with .043 chain maybe it is a mismatch.

I don't know about Echo, but the Stihl brushcutters would rival your saw for price and easily more if you like power. Not saying it's not the right tool for the job, just forwarning to cushion the sticker shock! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MarkV]

PM, I think your dealer is right that the problem is the small stuff you are cutting is pinching the blade and causing it to twist and bend the drive links. That is part of the reason that in a pervious post I mentioned that the small stuff can be a bigger safety issue than the larger stuff when using a chain saw.

I would suggest you modify your technique when cutting small stuff. Rather than cutting all the way through in one pass try to make a small cut on one side then move to the other for the final cut as you would with a larger tree. If you’re trying to cut close to the ground you are probably at a difficult angle to hold the saw properly. Try dropping the majority of the tree at waist height where you have better control and then come back and cut the stump. I find that my small saw likes to be at near full RPM’s when it engages smaller saplings to keep it from pinching. I liked the dealer’s idea of making your cuts near the base of the bar rather than the tip. The chain would be much less likely to twist there.

I think your saw is fine and it is just a matter of working out the technique which will come with more experience. Do keep in mind that the pinching and twisting you are experiencing is also what causes saws to kick back. Always keep a good hold on the saw and try to anticipate where the saw would go if it kicked back.

MarkV

 

[MarkV]

PM, I think your dealer is right that the problem is the small stuff you are cutting is pinching the blade and causing it to twist and bend the drive links. That is part of the reason that in a pervious post I mentioned that the small stuff can be a bigger safety issue than the larger stuff when using a chain saw.

I would suggest you modify your technique when cutting small stuff. Rather than cutting all the way through in one pass try to make a small cut on one side then move to the other for the final cut as you would with a larger tree. If you’re trying to cut close to the ground you are probably at a difficult angle to hold the saw properly. Try dropping the majority of the tree at waist height where you have better control and then come back and cut the stump. I find that my small saw likes to be at near full RPM’s when it engages smaller saplings to keep it from pinching. I liked the dealer’s idea of making your cuts near the base of the bar rather than the tip. The chain would be much less likely to twist there.

I think your saw is fine and it is just a matter of working out the technique which will come with more experience. Do keep in mind that the pinching and twisting you are experiencing is also what causes saws to kick back. Always keep a good hold on the saw and try to anticipate where the saw would go if it kicked back.

MarkV

 

[proudestmonkey]

I'll use your post to respond to several of the posts on chain/bar compatibility. Last night, curious about the possibility that this could be the problem, I checked the manual that came with the chain, and the compared the numbers in it for compatibility to the chain and the bar. I have the right chain and bar for this saw, and for each other. The gauge of the chain links is .043 (which is the inner distance between each of the metal pieces that hold the chain together (the links)). The size of the chain guides is .050, which is the proper size for the bar, which specifically calls for a .050 chain. So, I have the right chain and bar. In fact, the manual for the chain specifically calls for the model of the bar I have. I don't think there can be a problem with this.

 

[proudestmonkey]

I'll use your post to respond to several of the posts on chain/bar compatibility. Last night, curious about the possibility that this could be the problem, I checked the manual that came with the chain, and the compared the numbers in it for compatibility to the chain and the bar. I have the right chain and bar for this saw, and for each other. The gauge of the chain links is .043 (which is the inner distance between each of the metal pieces that hold the chain together (the links)). The size of the chain guides is .050, which is the proper size for the bar, which specifically calls for a .050 chain. So, I have the right chain and bar. In fact, the manual for the chain specifically calls for the model of the bar I have. I don't think there can be a problem with this.

 

[proudestmonkey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( PM, I think your dealer is right that the problem is the small stuff you are cutting is pinching the blade and causing it to twist and bend the drive links. That is part of the reason that in a pervious post I mentioned that the small stuff can be a bigger safety issue than the larger stuff when using a chain saw.

I would suggest you modify your technique when cutting small stuff. Rather than cutting all the way through in one pass try to make a small cut on one side then move to the other for the final cut as you would with a larger tree. If you’re trying to cut close to the ground you are probably at a difficult angle to hold the saw properly. Try dropping the majority of the tree at waist height where you have better control and then come back and cut the stump. I find that my small saw likes to be at near full RPM’s when it engages smaller saplings to keep it from pinching. I liked the dealer’s idea of making your cuts near the base of the bar rather than the tip. The chain would be much less likely to twist there.

I think your saw is fine and it is just a matter of working out the technique which will come with more experience. Do keep in mind that the pinching and twisting you are experiencing is also what causes saws to kick back. Always keep a good hold on the saw and try to anticipate where the saw would go if it kicked back.

MarkV
)</font>

I have always thought there was a possibility that the problem is at least partially my needing to figure out how to cut through this stuff with better techniques. So, I will try your suggestions, the suggestions of others, and the suggestions of the dealer, and see if that helps.

Regardless of how I change my technique to adapt to the saw's particular "nuances," it still doesn't explain why I was able to cut buckthorn for a year with my old chain saw (same size) without ever bending the chain, and now, all of a sudden, with this new saw, I am bending the chain after an hour of cutting. Maybe this saw is just more susceptible to this based on how it is built. It might be that this chain saw just has quite a bit more power than the old one (it seems like it does), so I am cutting through stuff much more quickly. I think I need to slow down a bit, pace myself and the saw, and take each tree as a separate thing to get through (I tend to want to chop down several at a time because there are so many and they are so small).

I'll let everyone know if changing my way of doing things improves the bent chain phenomenon.

By the way, I really appreciate everyone's willingness to chime in on this. It is pretty clear to me, once again, that this forum has people with an incredible wealth of experience from which to draw as I get accustomed to the tools of a semi-rural life. Thank you all.

 

[proudestmonkey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( PM, I think your dealer is right that the problem is the small stuff you are cutting is pinching the blade and causing it to twist and bend the drive links. That is part of the reason that in a pervious post I mentioned that the small stuff can be a bigger safety issue than the larger stuff when using a chain saw.

I would suggest you modify your technique when cutting small stuff. Rather than cutting all the way through in one pass try to make a small cut on one side then move to the other for the final cut as you would with a larger tree. If you’re trying to cut close to the ground you are probably at a difficult angle to hold the saw properly. Try dropping the majority of the tree at waist height where you have better control and then come back and cut the stump. I find that my small saw likes to be at near full RPM’s when it engages smaller saplings to keep it from pinching. I liked the dealer’s idea of making your cuts near the base of the bar rather than the tip. The chain would be much less likely to twist there.

I think your saw is fine and it is just a matter of working out the technique which will come with more experience. Do keep in mind that the pinching and twisting you are experiencing is also what causes saws to kick back. Always keep a good hold on the saw and try to anticipate where the saw would go if it kicked back.

MarkV
)</font>

I have always thought there was a possibility that the problem is at least partially my needing to figure out how to cut through this stuff with better techniques. So, I will try your suggestions, the suggestions of others, and the suggestions of the dealer, and see if that helps.

Regardless of how I change my technique to adapt to the saw's particular "nuances," it still doesn't explain why I was able to cut buckthorn for a year with my old chain saw (same size) without ever bending the chain, and now, all of a sudden, with this new saw, I am bending the chain after an hour of cutting. Maybe this saw is just more susceptible to this based on how it is built. It might be that this chain saw just has quite a bit more power than the old one (it seems like it does), so I am cutting through stuff much more quickly. I think I need to slow down a bit, pace myself and the saw, and take each tree as a separate thing to get through (I tend to want to chop down several at a time because there are so many and they are so small).

I'll let everyone know if changing my way of doing things improves the bent chain phenomenon.

By the way, I really appreciate everyone's willingness to chime in on this. It is pretty clear to me, once again, that this forum has people with an incredible wealth of experience from which to draw as I get accustomed to the tools of a semi-rural life. Thank you all.