CCM T-N-T, Finally

[3RRL]

If you don't need the DPOCV's on the top or side links, you might as well buy the cylinders and hose yourself.
I'm sure it would be a lot cheaper and easy to do. Not only that, those cylinders from CCM have British parallel pipe fittings for their ports so they can use those banjo bolts and fittings needed for their check valves. You can buy cylinders yourself with either American NPT or ORB (SAE) fittings (just look at the cyl specs) which will make it a lot easier to plumb.
I just installed an entire top and tilt with a new 4 spool Prince SV valve on my wife's Jinma 284.
Bought the valve and cylinders at Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulic Cylinders Pumps Motors.
I made all the hose myself using re-usable hose ends for a perfect fit.
Bought that stuff at Discount Hydraulics.
You can go to this thread and look for the top and tilt project in it. I'll be updating that thread later tonight with finished results from all the mods I did. I have to re-size and upload a bunch of photos first.
Here is the thread: New Mods to Loretta's 284 Jinma
Rob-

 

[Zephrant]

Thanks Rob- The one thing I had not found yet was a source for a side link cylinder all ready to mount. Your metal fabrications skills exceed mine by just a touch...

I did get out and play with the blade in the mud a little today- was able to smooth out a section of my road that was getting bad on the corner, and only had to adjust the tilt 3-4 times. A pain, but not yet worth $1000 to me.

I'll still do it, but will take my time putting together the pieces this summer I suspect.

 

[PAB_OH]

Mark (CCI) You have a private message.

 

[Duckklr69]

I suppose I'll call them next week- I have a low tolerance for companies that have email addresses, but refuse to keep up with them though.
I surf and shop at night, and prefer to get quotes by email as it cuts down on the mistakes on both ends.

Same here, I'm in Iraq and emailed them 2 or 3 times about a HTL, never got a response so I said to **** with it.

 

[PAB_OH]

Well, it's been a little rocky and I'm not done yet but I am getting close! Getting hoses proved to be a little harder than I imagined and a heck of lot more expensive than I thought.

I ended up having to cut the clevis on the rod end of the tilt cylinder off and make a new one. I got it welded up today. The clevis on the barrell end had to have bushings put into it but that was pretty simple, TSC had some sitting on the shelves.


The hard part is finding a new pin to replace the one that attached the old side link to the lift arms. The new set up is considerably wider so my existing pin is too short. What I discovered is that Kioti apparently uses a non-standard swivel eye on the lift arms. It measures .705" so a 3/4" pin will not fit in there. A 5/8" pin is too small and would cause long term issues.

So I'm now trying to track down anything I can make a pin out of. I can have something turned but I don't have access to a lathe like I used to so it's more difficult to get odd-ball sized stuff like this made up.

Hopefully I'll have some photos of the final install later this week.

 

[Ken45101]

The hard part is finding a new pin to replace the one that attached the old side link to the lift arms. The new set up is considerably wider so my existing pin is too short. What I discovered is that Kioti apparently uses a non-standard swivel eye on the lift arms. It measures .705" so a 3/4" pin will not fit in there. A 5/8" pin is too small and would cause long term issues.

Could it be metric? Check an industrial supply place like Grainger or McMaster Carr.

Ken

 

[PAB_OH]

I'm willing to bet it is metric (19mm). I forgot to mentiom that. I'll look around, thanks for the tip. (McMaster didn't have anything)

 

[3RRL]

The hard part is finding a new pin to replace the one that attached the old side link to the lift arms. The new set up is considerably wider so my existing pin is too short. What I discovered is that Kioti apparently uses a non-standard swivel eye on the lift arms. It measures .705" so a 3/4" pin will not fit in there. A 5/8" pin is too small and would cause long term issues.

So I'm now trying to track down anything I can make a pin out of. I can have something turned but I don't have access to a lathe like I used to so it's more difficult to get odd-ball sized stuff like this made up.

Hopefully I'll have some photos of the final install later this week.

First, see if the pins that used to be on the bottom will fit the top. My bottom pins were longer than the top ones. Then get yourself some 11/16" drill rod at the hardware store. That is not too small and will work nicely. You can cut to length and drill some holes for small lynch pins or grind a circular groove and use retainer clips.

 

[PAB_OH]

Well Rob, I took your advice. The lower pins weren't long enough so I ordered some 11/16 drill rod from Fastenal. No one around here had it that I could find. It came in today. I didn't even really look at it when I picked it up, just threw it in the car and headed home ( I work about an hour from home). Pulled it out and went to insert into the eye and... yep, wrong size.

Freaking .500" rod. It's labeled as 11/16" and even has the Fastenal part number for 11/16 taped to it!

So, try this again, on Friday.

One day, I swear, I'll have a working set up. I swear!

 

[3RRL]

Oh man, don't you hate it when that happens?
I find myself doing that all the time ... find out when I get home it's the wrong friggen size.

 

[PAB_OH]

Woo-Hooo
Finally! Got the rod, cut it down, and slapped it together. Works great.

I did run into a slight issue though. When I cut the old clevis off the rod end and welded the new on then drilled the hole for the clevis pin the drill must have walked. I don't have a drill press so I was using my Milwaukee Hole Shooter. At any rate, the cylinder fully retracted was ever so slightly longer than the fixed link on the other side and when my 7' back blade was hung off the rear the right side was significantly lower than the left. I ended up taking the fixed link off and putting the adjustable link on that side. I adjusted out to the long side and now I'm able to angle both ways a fair bit.

I'll post pics tomorrow of the final install. My hydraulic hoses are a little long and the clevis needs painted but it looks pretty good in my opinion. Even better it works really well.

 

[Ken45101]

What's the advantage of the TNT over buying stock cylinders at TSC and doing it yourself? I was looking at the TSC cylinders the other day and the prices seem to be in the $100-$150 range.

Ken

 

[PAB_OH]

For me it was the check valves. Some will argue that they aren't needed. I feel they are. Difference of opinion really.

Were you looking at tie rod cylinders? Again, you're going to hear differing opinions on that. My sole argument with regards to the type of cylinders used is look at construction equipment. I can't think of a single application where tie rod cylinders are used on that type of euipment. Ten again I don't know every piece of equipment manufactured by every OEM either.

I think if you get welded cylinders for a reasonable price and you don't want/need the check valves you should be able to do it yourself for less. There are a few issues to take into consideration when spec'ing out your own cylinders for this use though.

 

[PAB_OH]

Pics as promised....
The manually adjustable link on the left is set so that the arms are level when the hydraulic side link is extended about an inch. I may readjust so that the HSL will be extended two inches at level.

1st shows the blade tilted all the way to the right
2nd shows the HSL fully retracted
3rd shows each cylinder at full extension

I will probably have shorter hoses made up for the side link but the top link hoses are actually pretty decent.

 

[jinman]

Pics as promised....
The manually adjustable link on the left is set so that the arms are level when the hydraulic side link is extended about an inch. I may readjust so that the HSL will be extended two inches at level.

Phil, nice job! You can put that hand-crank adjustable link down a bit more to equalize the tilt on both sides as you stated. In use, I think you will find you will not need those severe positions all that much. With my boxblade, I find a slight tilt works best to cut a grade in small increments and keep the box from allowing a lot of material to escape out the raised blade on one side. With a straight blade at 7' in length, you will put a lot of twisting on the A-frame of the 3PH if you are not careful. Trying to tilt too much and move too much material is something everyone does, me for sure. Even cutting a ditch, I find slight tilt and many passes produces the best results. With each successive pass, the tractor tire drops by the amount of the grade, so I find putting in a slight tilt and leaving it set for repeated passes is the best.

I know you will love your setup now. It's absolutely lovely to stay in the seat and do top and tilt adjustments with a lever.

 

[jas67]

I just bit the bullet and ordered a T-N-T kit for you B7100.

Mark was very helpful and informative.

I can't wait!

I have my remotes installed, and all ready to go.

 

[PAB_OH]

Thanks Jim. I'm really happy with it so far. I should be able to put it to the test this weekend.

Good luck jas67. I'm sure when you get it you'll be really happy.