Can't load my tractor!

Jay4200 · Nov 16, 2009

I got a 16' 10k Hudson (non-beavertail) trailer with my used tractor ~4 years ago. Its a really nice trailer, but evidently the previous owner made a poor choice when he decided on this particular trailer model. The problem is that my tractor's backhoe frame (Kubota L4200 w/ 9' Woods backhoe) hangs low and sticks out several feet behind the tractor. The BH frame hits the ground long before the tractor can make the top of the trailer. When I originally brought the tractor home, I had to drag it off of the trailer with the backhoe, and never loaded it again. Now I have to move the tractor to a new house, so I spent all day yesterday trying to figure out a system...but failed.

I built ~5' long sub-ramps (3 stacked 2x planks) that lie on the ground behind the trailer ramps, to lift the rear tires just before the BH frame hits - which almost worked, but the frame was still low enough that it ended up hitting the sub-ramps way before the rear wheels hit the trailer ramps. I could possibly add more planks to the sub-ramps to gain additional clearance, but I don't want to go much higher primarily due to the weight as I want to keep them attached together - I'm not driving up a pile of loose planks.

I can probably put on a higher hitch, which will drop the rear end of the trailer somewhat, which would obviously help. The back of the trailer is up pretty high (close to 2') and the ramp stops are at least 6-8" off of the ground when the ramps are flopped down.

Another option (which I almost tried but chickened out) is to unhook the trailer from my truck, then drive the tractor onto the trailer. The front of the trailer would fly up in the air, the back would drop onto the ramp stops. I could probably drive the tractor right on that way, or maybe still need my sub-ramps, but I think it would probably work. I don't know how violent the dropping of the front end would be once I drove up enough to make the trailer tip, or (possibly even worse) what would happen once I pulled back off the trailer ramps when it falls back down empty. Seemed like something that would end badly, so that's why I chickened out.

I'm open for ideas.

JayC

beenthere · Nov 16, 2009

Can you find a sloped bank where you can back the trailer into, that will take out some of the sharpness of that angle giving you fits?

Or find a place to dig holes to back the trailer wheels into, that would do a similar thing for loading?

Jay4200 · Nov 16, 2009

beenthere said:
Can you find a sloped bank where you can back the trailer into, that will take out some of the sharpness of that angle giving you fits?

Or find a place to dig holes to back the trailer wheels into, that would do a similar thing for loading?

Tried it. That's how I got it off in the first place, but it still dug a hole. I'm looking for a solution that will allow me to load/unload easily, so I can start doing some mobile projects.

Basically, the wheels are ~6' apart. The backhoe frame sticks out ~3'. As a result, the back end drops half the distance the front goes up. When the front wheels are going the 2' up the ramps, the back of the BH frame has to drop a foot. Unfortunately, it sits about 6" off of the ground (ignore the collapsed tent - I've had better days):

JayC

manganos · Nov 16, 2009

Have you tried to "back" up into the trailer. Sometimes the departure angle is just enough off to get you off and on.

Steve C · Nov 16, 2009

Jay4200 said:
I got a 16' 10k Hudson (non-beavertail) trailer with my used tractor ~4 years ago. Its a really nice trailer, but evidently the previous owner made a poor choice when he decided on this particular trailer model. The problem is that my tractor's backhoe frame (Kubota L4200 w/ 9' Woods backhoe) hangs low and sticks out several feet behind the tractor. The BH frame hits the ground long before the tractor can make the top of the trailer. When I originally brought the tractor home, I had to drag it off of the trailer with the backhoe, and never loaded it again. Now I have to move the tractor to a new house, so I spent all day yesterday trying to figure out a system...but failed.

I built ~5' long sub-ramps (3 stacked 2x planks) that lie on the ground behind the trailer ramps, to lift the rear tires just before the BH frame hits - which almost worked, but the frame was still low enough that it ended up hitting the sub-ramps way before the rear wheels hit the trailer ramps. I could possibly add more planks to the sub-ramps to gain additional clearance, but I don't want to go much higher primarily due to the weight as I want to keep them attached together - I'm not driving up a pile of loose planks.

I can probably put on a higher hitch, which will drop the rear end of the trailer somewhat, which would obviously help. The back of the trailer is up pretty high (close to 2') and the ramp stops are at least 6-8" off of the ground when the ramps are flopped down.

Another option (which I almost tried but chickened out) is to unhook the trailer from my truck, then drive the tractor onto the trailer. The front of the trailer would fly up in the air, the back would drop onto the ramp stops. I could probably drive the tractor right on that way, or maybe still need my sub-ramps, but I think it would probably work. I don't know how violent the dropping of the front end would be once I drove up enough to make the trailer tip, or (possibly even worse) what would happen once I pulled back off the trailer ramps when it falls back down empty. Seemed like something that would end badly, so that's why I chickened out.

I'm open for ideas.

JayC

Does the trailer have a ball couplet or a pintle hitch ring?

beenthere · Nov 16, 2009

Appears those small turf tires might be the problem.
For a hoe, seems Industrial tires and larger diameter would be better for the weight of the hoe and for getting more height to the hoe. Just a thought.

Hope that snow wasn't this week.

zzvyb6 · Nov 16, 2009

There are some videos on Youtube showing an operator raising the rear of the tractor up with the backhoe once the front loader and front tires are on the trailer. Then use the controls to push the unit forward onto the trailer. Unload the same way.

teg · Nov 16, 2009

Got a photo of the back of the trailer? actually, truck and trailer would help too. We had a cotton picker that was hard to load with short ramps. We made a longer ramp by using 4x4's about 4 feet long, and set the regular ramps on top of it.

How much $$$ you want to throw at this? could you modify the trailer and put a short beavertail on it?

radioman · Nov 16, 2009

Since you have 4 wheel drive, how about this expensive option? - build wheels to replace the skid shoes on your out riggers and drive drive on with front wheel pulling you until the back tires touch the ramps. Then you can raise the outriggers and drive the rest of the way.

mattman · Nov 16, 2009

One thing I can tell you is that you don't want to try to drive onto the trailer without it being hooked to the truck. There is no telling where you will end up trying that.

I would keep building up the ramps until you get the tractor high enough to climb on up the trailer.

Dmace · Nov 16, 2009

Can you lower the trailer at all? Maybe put smaller tires (watch load rating) or flip the leaf spring shackles (if applicable)...?

I know this happened with one trailer I used with my CK20, the backhoe would hit the ground half way up the ramps. I was able to back up the trailer though, it didn't put the weight where I wanted it but worked.

QRTRHRS · Nov 16, 2009

teg said:
Got a photo of the back of the trailer? actually, truck and trailer would help too. We had a cotton picker that was hard to load with short ramps. We made a longer ramp by using 4x4's about 4 feet long, and set the regular ramps on top of it.

How much $$$ you want to throw at this? could you modify the trailer and put a short beavertail on it?

Since you mention wanting to move the tractor occasionally, you need a permanent solution. That pretty much rules out loading off of an enbankment. Using the hoe to get on is not for the faint of heart. Are you savvy?

I would think ramps are the best option but you need to know exactly what length. You tried five foot planks. What was the total length that you tried approximately? I would try a couple of planks with blocking on a level area until I got the correct length. If that makes you nervous, put a couple of screws in to stablize it.

Once you know the optimal length, perhaps double your ramps up with a hinge so they fold for easier stowage. (Again, a picture would help) Either fab up a center support for the hinged area or carry an assortment of blocks.

Diamondpilot · Nov 16, 2009

My advise is to first get a hitch for the truck that lets the trailer sit level. Second do not try to load with not truck hooked up. Good way to wreck the whole mess.

Best suggestion is to back it on. This usually will work in these cases. If not back the trailer up to a hill or simply build some wood planks to lay on the ground then place the ramps on top of them. Even 4 layers of 2x's will raise the ramps 6" and make a big difference.

Chris

powerstroke444e · Nov 16, 2009

After seeing how far back the hoe sits on that tractor it makes me happy I bought one with the hoe as a factory option, As yours must get hung up everywhere on job sites. Not beating up your machine as its bigger than my b26. I have had to use the hoe to load and move mine several times, I had same problem with a JD410 and had to use the hoe to load it. Once you get the hang of it, it won't be a problem.
At our farm I have a loading dock built so we don't have to use ramps or deal with the tail hitting.

Erik_in_Hoyt · Nov 16, 2009

can you jack up the front of the trailer with it still attached to the truck?
what about backing the truck up onto some solid ramps which would also lower the back end of the trailer?

radioman · Nov 17, 2009

I don't understand why you cant still drive on until back of hoe touch ground and then use your backhoe hydraulic to lift your rear end and continue to drive on while extending boom outwards.

dodge man · Nov 17, 2009

Yeah don't drive on without the trailer hooked up. I did this several times with a 4 wheeler trailer we had at work. It was a very small, short trailer, just big enough for the 4 wheeler. I got to where if I did it very slow, it would work. The problem is the rise in the front of the trailer and then the slamming back down can be very sudden and hard. On this little trailer, loading a 4 wheeler, no damage was done but only because it was so small and the weight was low, on a big trailer with a heavier tractor, alot of damage could be done.

KeithInSpace · Nov 17, 2009

Ditto on loading the trailer un-hooked. Tried that once. Wasn't pretty. Just glad the tongue slammed back down to terra-firma before it speared the back of my Expedition...it landed ~2" away from the back bumper...

beenthere · Nov 17, 2009

radioman said:
I don't understand why you cant still drive on until back of hoe touch ground and then use your backhoe hydraulic to lift your rear end and continue to drive on while extending boom outwards.

Think on the pivot point of the front axle, and imagine lifting the rear wheels with the hoe. Then get the feeling of the tractor and hoe tilting to one side (or the other) between the two pivot points (the front axle and the bucket of the hoe). Possibly lowering the bucket to help keep the tractor level might help, but seems that is a bit dicey too.

I'd look for a better solution. Larger diameter tires in place of the turf tires seems only logical if doing hoe work. But the combination of backhoe and trailer as it sits clearly is not a workable situation for the long haul.