Cab for the Kubota

fatjay · Jan 2, 2018

I'll try dropping the heater core down below, but logically, I'm not sure why this would be a problem. The water pressure required should be nil since it's a closed system, water up and water down. At least after all the air is blown out.

I would think that the water pressure would be high enough, from my understanding it's a water pump, bypassing the thermostat before it's open, so it should contain a fair amount of pressure. I'm not certain though.

texasranger556 · Jan 2, 2018

It may work fine once you get all the air out, I don't know for sure. Also make sure there is a thermostat installed. Do the radiator hoses get warm?

I've come across several used tractors that people have removed the thermostat entirely.

fatjay · Jan 2, 2018

I didn't feel the big hose but I'm assuming it's moving water since the water in the radiator does get warm. I'll take it apart and see if there's a thermostat, if there isn't that would explain why there's no water pressure in the bypass line, since there's no resistance on main line. Thermostat is $17, may just pick one up so it'll be here by the weekend assuming it's missing or failed open. Lows in the single digits for the foreseeable future anyway, but no snow to play in.

Also I have discovered I can't close my doors now that I have the door windows in, so I'll have to add a handle for that. My door latches are just a hole drilled through the door and frame, and shove an allen wrench through.

TractorGuy · Jan 2, 2018

May need one of these to get the heat working.

12V Electric Booster Pump Kit (SKU:SCP61)

fatjay · Jan 4, 2018

Turns out i just needed to let it run some more. Today's snow was only 4" but wind made it a bit heavier. Everything worked nicely, except i lost the pin to raise and lower the blower in the snow, so I had to dig through the snow to find it. Didn't want to pick it up in the blower.

Also found that I can't engage the blower in high speed, only low and medium. For tough areas I drug the blade and made a nice pile, then backed over it and scooped it up with the snowblower. New cutting blade on the bottom really helps. The spool valve i need to manually hold in float to have it float, but that's not that bad.

In high gear I was running with the blade, and if the load got to heavy I heard a clicking. I don't know what that was, but made me a bit nervous so I backed off a bit. With turf tires I found that speed is my friend with the blade, getting a running start was the best way especially up a hill.

All in all, it was a beast in the small snowfall. I need to seal up the gaps around my legs, though, wind got in there pretty easily and made for cold toes.

ovrszd · Jan 4, 2018

It's my belief that the hardest part of a project like this is the details. Wind blowing thru cracks is a party crasher.

chim · Jan 4, 2018

fatjay said:
...........................I need to seal up the gaps around my legs, though, wind got in there pretty easily and made for cold toes.....................

My cab didn't have too many gaps, but the front wall took some extra work. I made the initial front (below the glass) from strips of the thick plastic material used for big doors on refrigerated rooms that forklifts drive through. They had gaps and the plastic yellowed after a while.

In the pictures is the current version made of Lexan. I coped it around the body, trying to leave a 3/8" +/- gap between the Lexan and the sheet metal. Then I got some closed cell foam gasket material with adhesive on one side and stuck it on the metal. The edge of the Lexan just touches the gasket and that worked well. The hardest part was between the floor and the back of the engine compartment. Much of it was easy enough to close off with cut-out pieces of flat Armaflex. The left side was a little challenging, but adding a small piece of U-bent stainless provided a place to fasten an end of the Lexan plus hold a larger piece of Armaflex. A quick fix could be as simple as stuffing gaps with pieces of Armaflex pipe insulation.

fatjay · Jan 5, 2018

Mine has no gaps at all except for the legs. I think some pond liner rubber is in order.

ovrszd · Jan 5, 2018

chim said:
My cab didn't have too many gaps, but the front wall took some extra work. I made the initial front (below the glass) from strips of the thick plastic material used for big doors on refrigerated rooms that forklifts drive through. They had gaps and the plastic yellowed after a while.

In the pictures is the current version made of Lexan. I coped it around the body, trying to leave a 3/8" +/- gap between the Lexan and the sheet metal. Then I got some closed cell foam gasket material with adhesive on one side and stuck it on the metal. The edge of the Lexan just touches the gasket and that worked well. The hardest part was between the floor and the back of the engine compartment. Much of it was easy enough to close off with cut-out pieces of flat Armaflex. The left side was a little challenging, but adding a small piece of U-bent stainless provided a place to fasten an end of the Lexan plus hold a larger piece of Armaflex. A quick fix could be as simple as stuffing gaps with pieces of Armaflex pipe insulation.

I like that a LOT. Very nice work. Great visibility. Good job!!!!

ovrszd · Jan 5, 2018

fatjay said:
Mine has no gaps at all except for the legs. I think some pond liner rubber is in order.

How did you seal the sides and the top around your hood?

Ehanson · Jan 21, 2018

texasranger556 said:
Your heater is mounted pretty high. I've only installed a couple heaters and they were mounted low in the cab below the top of the radiator so you could work the bubbles out.

To stand any chance of flowing water to your heater core, first try with the heater sitting on the ground so you can get all the air out of the system. Even then, it probably won't work very well being up that high.

I was thinking air lock also, then I saw the picture, I think it may be tough to get flow through heater core. Also thinking that you don't want to starve the cylinder head of its coolant flow. That will be nice when blowing snow on a chilly day. Good job!

HuntNC · Mar 1, 2019

Jay,

I'm guessing you are still happy with the power steering? I'm about to embark on this adventure for my b8200...

HuntNC · Mar 21, 2019

well it's a done deal with my tractor... i did the power steering conversion... so far so good...

EKlee · Mar 23, 2019

Something tells me you may find turds on your new cab

jhloiac · Mar 25, 2019

"Cover My Tractor" has Small Electric, ceramic heaters with a fan for $50.00. Works good in my cab on my 1870 and would save you a lot of "plumbing"
Joe

texasranger556 · Mar 25, 2019

jhloiac said:
"Cover My Tractor" has Small Electric, ceramic heaters with a fan for $50.00. Works good in my cab on my 1870 and would save you a lot of "plumbing"
Joe

That heater is rated for 300 watts which is 25 amps at 12 volts. BX charge system is only 40 amps so if you run a lot of lights it could kill your battery.

jhloiac · Mar 26, 2019

texasranger556 said:
That heater is rated for 300 watts which is 25 amps at 12 volts. BX charge system is only 40 amps so if you run a lot of lights it could kill your battery.

Thanks for that info. Wasn't aware of it. I really haven't used the heater yet. I find that if I'm dressed for the conditions, I'm warm enough in the cab without any supplemental heat. Just to be out of the wind is great. Nice to have it there should it be really cold. Where I am, it can be -20 or more with wind chills.
Replaced my lights with LED's but I will remember the battery issue that you mentioned. Thanks.