Oil & Fuel Bypass oil filter for those that care

[BobRip]

I wonder if you could use the PTO return port for your supply line of the standalone system and then dump the return back to the fill cap on the tank. You would probably want to make a dust cap on the return or get a spare cap and drill a hole in it for the return. All low pressure, no danger of starting the engine and blowing the system. Easy to install and no PT modifications. No relief valve, orifice.

 

[woodlandfarms]

On my PT, there are three hoses for the PTO, as well as 3 hoses for the wheel motors.

Couldn't the third line (the over flow line?) have a small micron filter on it? Again, this is all being said from someone who has no clue so take it as a wild stab in the dark in terms of finding a low pressure but flowable place on the PT.

 

[Bob999]

I have installed a filter on the return line of my mower to provide additional filtration. It has worked well for me.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/146146-pictures.html#post1686972

 

[J_J]

On my PT, there are three hoses for the PTO, as well as 3 hoses for the wheel motors.

Couldn't the third line (the over flow line?) have a small micron filter on it? Again, this is all being said from someone who has no clue so take it as a wild stab in the dark in terms of finding a low pressure but flowable place on the PT.

Carl, the third hose on your PTO and wheel motors are for case drains for hyd motors on implement that have them. My PT has drain lines on the PTO circuit, and wheel motors. If you did put a filter on the wheel motor drain lines, it would catch anything from circulating through the closed loop circuit, and the out put from the pump case drains goes back through the radiator, and then back to tank. If you did put them on the wheel motors, you would want a low bypass pressure to insure there is not a lot of back pressure on the wheel motors, and pump.

 

[J_J]

I wonder if you could use the PTO return port for your supply line of the standalone system and then dump the return back to the fill cap on the tank. You would probably want to make a dust cap on the return or get a spare cap and drill a hole in it for the return. All low pressure, no danger of starting the engine and blowing the system. Easy to install and no PT modifications. No relief valve, orifice.

I don't know how much GPM the 1 micron filters can take, but you could split the return flow and run, say about 3 GPM through the 1 micron in a bypass configuration, and the rest of the flow through the regular circuit. Maybe something like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4078&catname=hydraulic

 

[Clarke]

I never saw that post - how well does that pump work with cold oil? The thermal protection on my used tuthill pump sometimes kicks in when the temps are below 20. This winter, it will be in a heated area (50), so it should not be an issue.

Did you ever do the quick disconnect setup? I used some 3/4 flat face fittings on mine. One could even use o-ring seal hydraulic fittings with female caps for when it is not being used.

Ken

I never run it in the winter although I don't believe there would be a problem might just slow it down a little. I still run it with the copper tubing in the tank fill one on top the other pulling from the bottom. I just hook it up and let it run for several hrs sometimes over night.

I'll try to get a better picture maybe a side view. It is a simple device. 1725 J model oil burner pump, oil burner coupling, 1/3 hp motor and the three micron hydraulic filter.

You can most likely find an old pump at the salvage yard where the heating contractors take there junk or check with an oil company.

Works good for me.

sg

 

[BobRip]

I don't know how much GPM the 1 micron filters can take, but you could split the return flow and run, say about 3 GPM through the 1 micron in a bypass configuration, and the rest of the flow through the regular circuit. Maybe something like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4078&catname=hydraulic

Thanks for the link. I was not very clear in my post. What I was thinking was you would use an electric pump to pull from the return line and dump the pump output into the 1 micron filter and then back to the tank top. This way you could filter for hours if you like. Does this make sense or have any value.

 

[jaquetarr]

Is this design heading towards a separate filtering system taking from & returning to the res tk? Or is it going towards installing a parallel filter bypass on the returns line?

I think the continuously running (key on) separate filter system would be best, easiest to install and give a greater flexibility in mounting.

The folks at AMSOIL figured out a long time ago; if you keep the dirt & water out of the oil it will last a long time. Might work for PT as well.
tks, tim

 

[BobRip]

Is this design heading towards a separate filtering system taking from & returning to the res tk? Or is it going towards installing a parallel filter bypass on the returns line?

I think the continuously running (key on) separate filter system would be best, easiest to install and give a greater flexibility in mounting.

The folks at AMSOIL figured out a long time ago; if you keep the dirt & water out of the oil it will last a long time. Might work for PT as well.
tks, tim

I like the separate filtering mechanism. Just trying to minimize changes in the PT. I don't know enough to feel comfortable doing that. I am sure that others do.

 

[jaquetarr]

If I understand a previous post from Mr JJ,
the bulk of the Hyd oil stays in the pump / motor circuit. Leak off losses are make up by the replenishing pump. (as opposed to the oil pickup from the Res tk > to the pump > to the motor > to the res tank.)

If this is correct, it seems like any filter would have to be in the main oil flow to catch dirt / wear particles. Wish PT would supply a good Hyd Diagram.
Seem like a pump or motor failure would wipe out both within a few seconds as the metal was carried back & forth.
tks,
tim