Oil & Fuel Bypass oil filter for those that care

   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #61  
I think the answer would be to use the filter setup at the end of a job. Plug it in and let it filter while the machine cools down for a bit. Let it idle while you grease it and wash it.

The oil will be hot, the contaminants will be as suspended as they will ever get. The flow rate and pressure will be manageable.
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #62  
Do you have separate hoses from the wheel motors and the pump case drain going back to the hyd radiator? There is another case drain line for any case drain hyd motor on the front of the 1445.

My 1445 is an early 90's model, and the VSP pump is built by Eaton.

I have an 1845 built in 2001 or 2002. On my unit the case drains (all 5) connect to the cooler bypass valve body. Also connected to the cooler bypass valve body is the inlet to the hydraulic oil cooler, a connection to the tank, and the outlet from the charge pump. My understanding is that the charge pump output flows to the cooler bypass valve body and depending on the temperature the fluid either flows through the cooler and returns to tank (if hot) or flows directly to tank (if cool). My understanding is that the case drains flow directly to tank--that is the cooler bypass valve body is simply a connection point to a return line to the tank.
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #65  
I bought a very high pressure filter setup - i think it is the one i got for $10. This was to possibly put in the PTO circuit. I have to double check the specs for it. It is quite heavy - maybe 15 - 20 lbs or more. If i remember correctly, it is a Donaldson brand.

Ken
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #66  
By the way, at 18 GPM for my tractor, with 6-8' of hose back to the tank, a few fittings, etc. I bet you are looking at 50 - 100 psi or more between the output of the filter and the open tank. Think what kind of flow rates you get with 40 - 60 psi house pressure.

Ken
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #67  
I think the answer would be to use the filter setup at the end of a job. Plug it in and let it filter while the machine cools down for a bit. Let it idle while you grease it and wash it.

The oil will be hot, the contaminants will be as suspended as they will ever get. The flow rate and pressure will be manageable.

To me, this sounds sensible and very do-able. I'm going to think hard about it, and then maybe pull the trigger. No moving parts, could be mounted to the mower (alternate solution), and if not, then simply used as Gravy noted above, and you could simply mount it on a wooden "filtering" platform.

Right now, the 'mount it to the mower' solution appeals to me more, as you don't have to think about it. It just happens when you mow. The issues of safety bypass and 'clogged' indicator are already solved by the purchase of the referenced filter unit.

-Rob :)
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #68  
This is what I tried a few years ago using a Zinga spin-on filter setup from Surplus Center. The results were uncomfortable. Nothing blew out, but the pressures were only marginally acceptable with hot fluid at idle. We discussed it here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/77278-variable-speed-transmission-3.html

I really oughta get back to that project...

I read this thread, but I'm confused. The link to the Zinga spin-on filter Gravy used is broken, so I don't know what was tried. However, Gravy did say: "My filter setup will handle the flow, but won't handle high pressure. It's a return line filter rated for about 30GPM and 120 psi max. It will simply connect to the main PTO circuit in place of the mower or other hydraulic motor. " If I understood what happened, Gravy hooked it up to the PTO as a closed loop, after mowing, so the oil was hot, but even at idle, it quickly built pressure with little flow and didn't work very well. Gravy opined that he felt the issue was restrictions in the couplers and/or hoses he was using.

I would think that if we're going to plumb anything into the PTO circuit, it should definitely be a high-pressure setup.

By the way, I did receive a call back from a technician from Zinga. He said that the high-pressure P3000 filter we are discussing DOES have a differential pressure indicator. It is set at 44PSI, and is supposed to 'pop up' to show that the filter is getting full. He said they designed the pressure indicator to pop up well before the bypass kicks in.

On the surface, this does seem like a decent solution.

-Rob :)
 
   / Bypass oil filter for those that care #69  
Yep, that's what I was saying.

The filter I used was a standard spin-on return filter that looks like an automotive oil filter. A high pressure filter would be a much better choice.
 

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